89 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

This will be the first vintage build at my new digs and I'm looking forward to getting creative again  

 

Owner supplied some parts and a nice new-in-box body. The only thing I've done so far is placed the body in a windowsill to reduce the yellowing somewhat. Parts gathering and planning coming soon .....

 

[Pablo]

Looking at the body n parts now. The windowsill sunlight definitely alleviated the yellowing a good deal.

 

Body is pre-trimmed impeccably and it's a very nice piece. Width of the bottom of the skirts is 3 1/8". At first I thought the 26D motor may be too high for it and the front wheels may be too big, but after looking at some pictures of the actual cars, I think it will work. The wheelbase will have to be somewhat short, maybe about 3 5/8". We shall see ....

 

[Isaac S.]

I like the '65 Shelby GT350 in the background! Very cool though. 

[Pablo]

I like all the cars in the background, even the red van LOL

 

My eyes were fooled by the big EB bushing housing, this isn't a 26D. It's a Mabuchi can drive FT-16D with a very thick heavy can. 

WB will be 3 5/8". I've made a rough plan of how to proceed, which I will present to the owner for his input.

 

With a WB this short, it absolutely has to be sidewinder or anglewinder, not inline. That is for sure.

 

I found lots of great historical info on the 1/1 2H on Dennis David's website 

[Martin]

I will enjoy watching your progress.

[Pablo]

Thanks Martin. I've been given the "green light" for this basic plan:

 

-Havlicek built Mura "A" can with Mabuchi FT-16D EB

-Phaze III anglewinder kit. If I can manage to make it full sidewinder, I will. We shall see

 

It's going to have to be a heavy short mutha to harness that H Power Mura. But the original car was reportedly overpowered as well, so ..... 

 

[Pablo]

Hey Bunky, look what I found in my anglewinder bracket drawer - a gifted Don Weaver 26D piece that fits the big Mab FT-16D H Power EB like a glove 

 

 

 

Fiddled with rears n gears, decided on this rough basic anglewinder plan:

 

-1/8" axle, 48P gears 4.5 to one, 7T brass press-on, Cox 32 spur

-13/16" OD wheels, 3.0" wide

-I'll pick and choose parts from the Phaze III chassis kit that work (gifted by anonymous donor friend  )

-Left hand can drive, soldered to a main rail

-Weaver bracket will secure right side with screws to EB holes to prevent motor wiggle - no wire brace needed

-Center of motor balance will be centered on chassis (note the Sharpie dot)

 

 

Orange wheels are just for planning - Professor Motor rims will be polished up and mounted to black natural rubber donuts

 

 

'Tis better to deviate from a known plan, than to have no plan at all 

[Isaac S.]

Can drive with bracket on EB side. Very interesting.

[Slot Car Rod]

I built this one around 1970.  3 13/16" wheelbase.  Hope this helps.  7/8" rears and 3/4" fronts. "A" can.

 

Also, tire track is narrow.  Rear wheels/tires 3" outer edge to edge.  Front is 2 7/8" wide.

Chassis is 3 1/32" wide.

 

 

[Pablo]

 

[Don Weaver]

Pablo,

 

I left plenty of meat on the bracket for trimming as needed.  I had forgotten about those after all this time.

 

Don

[Pablo]

Thanks Don 

 

The wheels supplied turned out to be for 3mm axles (I never knew they even existed!). Professor Motor does have them in stock in 1/8, but once we looked at Slot Car Rod's car we realized a narrower smaller front wheel would allow the WB to be more like 3 13/16" for much better handling.

 

So the new plan is 13/16" OD rears with natural rubber, cupped style O-ring fronts ground down to 3/4" OD, and hoping for 3 13/16" WB. Thanks to dc-65x for the wheels 

 

[Pablo]

Noose will paint the interior

 

[Martin]

But, those Chappy wheels were so cool   I would be happy to ream them .125" for you

Maybe for another Chappy where space is not so limiting.

[Pablo]

I thought about reaming them, but why bother when the correct ones are available.

You still end up with a 3 5/8" WB and I'm concerned it would be evil.

 

Thanks anyway    Onward .....

[Pablo]

Fronts trimmed and trued. 3/32 front axle polished and set up with an .093 retainer to give independent rotation. Axle rough trimmed on other end to give me some fudge factor in case I need to narrow it down a hair from 3.0" width 

 

 

Sharpie dot marks 3 13/16" WB. It appears everything will be tight, but work fine

 

[Pablo]

Rears rough trimmed for a tube/gear mock up. Now I have an idea of how much material to remove from the tube, and plan the motor box architecture.

 

Hogged out a (sacrificial) 7T brass press-on pinion so I could slide it up and down the shaft for planning purposes. Sharpie marks are the tube center (1.5") and the motor balance point based on the approx. angle.

 

Same way I always do any custom anglewinder - you don't want to build it then find things don't fit right  

 

[Pablo]

Tube sliced open, pinion pressed on, motor test fit in the nest. Steel spacers in the right places to give me enough of a fudge factor for gear mesh, 3.0" width, tornadoes, etc.

 

Slick 7 racing bushings will be used, but the ones shown are from my setup stash, exactly the same. Careful setup actually makes my job simpler. Once jigged up, it should be easy to see where the first rails need to go ....... 

 

[Pablo]

Look close and you'll see 3 layers of 4 thou blue tape on the axle to prevent the big "A" can edge from touching it while I plan the rails. Soon as I make the wires to fit, wheels/motor/spur all come out before the acid starts flying 

 

 

Front width will be 2 7/8" just like Slot Car Rod's. At this point there is a piece of 1/16" brass chunk under the actual motor, just for planning purposes. Actual WB will be 3 25/32 vice 3 13/16" due to jig voodoo 

 

 

Jim Hall interior painted by Noose enroute to TN

 

[Slot Car Rod]

I like the blue tape spacing idea.

[Pablo]

An old flexi trick 

[Pablo]

Mab EB holes tapped 2-56 and a pair of brass screws cut short just to temporarily secure the bracket. I don't want to keep snugging and loosening a set of full-length screws in the build process. Weaver bracket trimmed and buttoned up for planning

 

 

 

 

[Jaeger Team]

"Look close and you'll see 3 layers of 4 thou blue tape on the axle to prevent the big "A" can edge from touching it"
No notch?

[Pablo]

Big notch on the tube and a small amount of material sliced off the can edge. I didn't want to mess with the "A" can much and removing more of it than I did would start removing magnet shwarf. Which I don't want to do either   I'd prefer to have a little more motor angle than start carving things up and making a mess.

[Jaeger Team]

👍🙂