41 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

Customer supplied some ultra-sweet parts which gives me a nice head start:

 

-Havlicek custom built Camen-style Mura "C"  motor, double BB's, buss bars etc.

 

-Electric Dreams Cyclone body

 

One look at the drop arm will probably tell you the direction this will take 

 

[Pablo]

Planning:

-WB 4 1/2", GL 13/16, body skirt width 3 1/8. Wheel widths probably 3"

-Fronts 3/4" OD, rears 7/8

-Front and rear axles 1/8"

-Gears 64P, Faas 44T/steel 8T

-Donuts - Bartos oranges - two sets of wheels, one for show, one for go

 

Found some engine tappet rods for axles, the man said they are straight. I checked 'em. Yup, straight as Kofords and I can trim them to size 

 

Paint job will be by Jairus Watson 

[slotcarone]

Should be a nice build Pablo! I have never seen any pushrods that are 1/8 diameter though. Must be a very small engine.

[Pablo]

Thanks Mike 

 

Tested the motor today at 4 volts and it absolutely scares me 

[Pablo]

My Mura "C" jig motor has same dimensions and pinion as the actual motor. Tube notched, top and right/left center point scribed, motor centered at balance point and test fit. Jig bushings are Slick 7's same lip width as actual BB's.

 

The "Go" wheel trimming is final at .880 OD X 5/8 width, enabling me to use them as planners for chassis parts. That way no need to worry about soiling the fancy "Show" wheels. Time to start loading the Rgeo jig 

 

 

 

[Jairus]

I am only commenting because I started my own car based on the Torino body I had. (Which I messed up)
Chassis is done however, but looking at a Dodge Charger or some other body easier to paint to fit on the chassis.

Keep up the great work Paul!

[Pablo]

Thanks Jairus 

 

My chassis inspiration will come from dc-65x right here:

 

1970 Pro Stock Car - Bill Steube/Lee Gilbert inspired - The DC-65X Diaries - Slotblog

 

Axles n jig blocks all set, jig Mura set with a dot of Krazy Glue

 

[Pablo]

First half rails tacked on. No screw in bracket - motor will be soldered to rails and a tube brace. Every time I look at dc-65x works I learn. Like how he leaves wires long then trims later, ensuring they are flat to the block as opposed to trying to fumble with small bits (guilty as charged) LOL

 

[Pablo]

Jig motor out, spur gear removed and scrubbed clean, replaced with a jig hub of same width. Hey, who says there is no uniformity in slot cars? Faas miked at .253". First hub I pulled out of my tub miked at .253" 

 

I see no reason not to run my outside rails all the way rearward, so it shall be

 

[Bud Greene]

What paint job going to be

[Jencar17]

Electric Dreams - LIVE - YouTube Cyclone 

[Pablo]

What paint job going to be

 

Paint will be by Jairus, that's all I know. Matter of fact, it's all I "need to know" LOL

[Pablo]

My half rail connections are slightly different from dc-65x since I didn't use a bracket. But the end result is same-same. Soon the 1/4" brass strip will tie it all together

 

[Pablo]

Ah, the beauty of no rules - GL will be 13/16". This body allows it no problemo.

 

Jig wheels removed and washed, front rails sliced and trued, drop arm upstop installed. My drop arm is .032 so I'm thinking of using a sheet of .032 lead weight atop to shim it. Not sure yet. dc-65x used a gizmo.

 

[Pablo]

I think the way Tom Hansen did his drop arm hinges will work best for this build, since the arm is only .032" thick. But I'm on "pause" until I decide exactly how I want all the bits situated

 

 

Rit "scarlet" dye will be the color for the Parma white flag, to match the planned paint scheme

 

 

 

[Pablo]

Drop arm hinge tubes done. Hinge wires will be soldered on later

 

 

Rough trim done on the "Show" wheels. Plumber tube and bumper pieces, piece of cake when done like dc-65x. Parma flag required a slight trim to allow a full 45+ degree rotation. While I was doing that I went ahead and blueprinted it

 

[Pablo]

.055 plated plumber rails done, but left long. Building order just like dc-65x - I've learned over the years everything he does is for a doggone good reason. So I'm careful to follow the steps, but my details may deviate    I'm at the planning point for pans/hinges, etc

 

[Pablo]

Made my own .032 pans with band saw, hand file and sandpaper to a tolerance of +/- a couple thou. I'll probably need to do a little nibbling for the hinge tubes. Easy day. Most of the bits are done and ready

 

[Pablo]

Lift and tilt pan assemblies complete but not yet connected and governed. I planned the spacing of the plumber rails to shift 15 thou from center on each side - it's what I normally use on my full plumber cars and it always works for me

 

[Pablo]

All plumbing pieces in place, jig bits removed, quality check for movements complete and satisfactory. Enjoy the last photo of it dirty with acid splatter - next steps are preliminary cleanup, BB installation, motor prep, etc.

 

 

[Pablo]

One last acid party - BB's soldered in, pinion installed, both motor attachment points and buss bar ends tinned. Tube top tinned and ready for a .047 anti-bunny-hop brace. Masking and cleanup to prevent corrosion was much harder than the work itself 

 

[Pablo]

The scrapes on pan bottoms are my fault. I thought polishing and tumbling would take care of it, but it is what it is

 

 

 

[Isaac S.]

Looks really good

[Jairus]

She's beautiful Paul! 

However, I discovered a new trick, polishing the chassis with a soft cloth and "Brasso".  The Brasso not only cleans but it protects the brass from brown aging.

[slotcarone]

She's beautiful Paul! 

However, I discovered a new trick, polishing the chassis with a soft cloth and "Brasso".  The Brasso not only cleans but it protects the brass from brown aging.

I have been using metal polish on my chassis since we started building Retro chassis again 15 years ago. They also get the SOS treatment many times during construction too. The combination process gives a nice lasting shine. Here's one from a few years ago.