I'm building a Flexi Kar (Flexi 1) chassis for the first time and would like your help in regards to assembly and setup. Photos would be greatly appreciated.
Wing body, motor: stock 501 Deathstar 16D, wheels: JK full width plastic hub .790", gears 9/28, axle 1/8", body clips, front wheels??, flag: Parma thick, clearance 1/16" front and rear.
How do I set this thing up to win? Thanks in advance,
pablo
Flexi Kar
Started by
Pablo
, Sep 16 2008 08:57 PM
73 replies to this topic
#1
Pablo
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Posted 16 September 2008 - 08:57 PM
Paul Wolcott
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Posted 16 September 2008 - 09:55 PM
Pablo,
I had this saved as a file on my hard drive for a few years:
Building a National Winning Flexi-Kar
How to build a National winning Flexi-Kar
1. Before you begin to build you chassis there are some parts that you will need: Parma #588L Flexi-Kar chassis, #623 1/8 or #624 3/32 rear axle bushings, 1/16 front axle, leadwire, guide nut, Slick 7 .015 guide spacers, 2 guide clips, a piece of .055 piano wire, PSE #70223 cut down guide, #70291 Pro-Lites, #71021 3/32 x .765 or #71025 1/8 x .770 Full Big Hub Tunas.
2. The first thing that you will need to do is to make sure both the center section and pans are totally flat.
3. Next you will need to take a Dremel and grind off the plating where you will be soldering. A) Front axle uprights
upright motor mount and chassis where the motor and brace will be soldered C) Rear pillow blocks for the bushings D) Earring back for leadwires. I have colored the areas in black, for an example.
4. You MUST cut out the motor brace so you will be able to get the proper gear mesh with today's lower gearing.
5. You will need to get a .015 Teflon guide spacer and put it over the hinge that holds the pan in place.
6. Place the pan over the center section where it would be when you have the chassis together. You will notice that the pan does not sit flat with the bottom of the center section. To make it sit flat with the center section you MUST bend the Z bend on both sides to more of a bend so the sides of the pan will sit fat with the center section. The measurement should be .076", like shown.
7. After you have the pan bent right you will have to decide if you want the pan to be in the rear hole or the front hole. We recommend for GTP or high down force bodies to position the pan forward (rear holes) and for Nascar, GT1 and lower down force bodies to position the pan back (front holes).
8. If you decide to put the pan forward you will need to bend the tab that holds the pan down, forward. You will then need to put a piece of .055 piano wire under the tab and with needle nose pliers bend the back of the tab down. Remove the .055 piano wire and then you MUST adjust the tab so the pan has about .005 of play up and down. If you decide to put the pan in the rear position you will need to bend the tab down only.
9. Then slide a 1/16 front axle through the pan and center section. You MUST make sure that the both of the holes where the pan rests on the axle rest completely on the axle and that one hole is not up and one down. If one is up and one is down the pan is twisted and the car will not work properly. We use a business card in between the pan and center section so the solder does not flow them together. It is a good idea to use some sort of retainer inside the front axle uprights so your solder joint will be stronger.
10. Solder the front axle to the center section with acid flux. I like to hold the axle up to the top of the hole and then solder the axle. That lets the pan sit level with the chassis.
11. When you have the axle soldered remove the business cards and wash the chassis with soap and Scotch Brite. This will keep the chassis free of rust and let the pan move properly. To check if you have the pan tab adjusted correctly when it is forward, hold the center section in one hand and the pan in the other. If you move the pan forward it should pivot on the tab and the front of the pan must move from side to side. To check if you have the pan adjusted correctly when it is back. Again hold the center section in one hand and the pan in the other. If you move the pan back it should pivot on the tab and the front of the pan must move from side to side (kind of like a Turbo Flex chassis). If it does not move like this the tab will have to be bent up or down.
12. Then you can solder the bushings in place with acid flux. You might need to adjust the height of the holes to get them even. I like to use Parma #623 for 1/8 and #624 for 3/32 axles.
13. No matter what the class, I use PSE #70291 Pro-Lites for front wheels. You need to take two of the retainers that come with the wheels and slide them on each side of the front axle, with the flange outward. Again it is a good idea to put a business card on the front axle so the solder does not flow the pan to the axle. I position the retainers .240 from the inside of the axle uprights to the outside of the retainers and then solder to the axle. This keeps the front wheels from hindering the pan movement, when the car goes around a turn and lets the front wheels to be out as far as possible with out interfering with the body. Solder the retainers with acid flux. Wash the chassis with soap and Scotch-Brite.
14. Next, you will need to do is install the front wheels and solder the retainers. Make sure you leave .015 or so of play so the wheels can move freely. After that, bend the front axle so the wheels with no o-rings are level with the bottom of the chassis. This is a good starting point for the front wheel height but the final adjustment will be at the track. Then install the o-rings.
15. Next you will need to install the guide. PSE #70223 is the perfect setup for the front end. You will need a .015 Teflon guide washer on the top and on the bottom. This setup works well if the braid on the track is level with the track or as much as .025 of recess.
16. To get the guide angle you will need to get a set of .790 tires. The guide angle is correct when you have the braid and tires on the car and the guide sits level to the block. You can test this by pressing on the guide in the front and the back on the tech block. When you then put on .770 tires the rear tires will come up about .005-.010"
17. The car will take .770 tires to clear 1/16.
18. Next you are ready to make a motor brace and solder in the motor. Have whatever gears you think that you might be running on the motor and on the axle. Push the motor back as far as possible without it hitting the axle. Then solder the motor on the top. You will then need to bend a 1" piece of .047 piano wire in a 45 degree angle. Tack the motor brace with solder in the back. Then remove the motor and finish soldering the brace. This lets you get the motor brace in the correct position without getting acid flux on your motor. Then wash the chassis with soap and Scotch Brite. Some rules may not allow you to have a motor brace so check first.
19. After you have the motor brace soldered in, resolder the motor with the correct gear mesh on the top and in the back. You must solder the motor in the back because of the way the upright motor brace was cut. If you do not solder it in the back when you hit something the motor will twist forward and you will loose your mesh.
20. Next install the earring back to the chassis and install the leadwires. Like shown.
21. One of the most important things about how this chassis works is the front wheel height. The wheels must touch all of the time but not hold the guide out of the slot. You want a maximum of .005 of clearance between the wheels and the track. The less space the better. Make sure you also oil the wheels but be careful not to get any oil on the axle where the pan touches.
General tips that will help with the tuning of the car
1. Sometimes we tape the chassis to get different movement out of the chassis.
There is no specific time when we tape it. Sometimes it will work better and sometimes it will not. Like shown.
2. Most of the time when we run a low downforce some weight needs to be added.
You will need to experiment and find the best combo for your driving and track. About 6 to 8 grams split into 3 or 4 pieces is a good rule to follow. Remember the more weight you put towards the rear the more the looser the car will slide. We also try to keep the weight even from side to side unless there is a particular turn that is giving us trouble. Then we might either try to off set the rear end a bit or add weight to one side more than the other as long as it does not affect the other turns.
3. The best tires that we have found to work are the PSE Full Big Hub Tunas. The outside diameter is .480". If you use a hub smaller than .450" you are wasting your time. I have never found small hub tires to work better no matter how loose the track is. You may need to narrow the tires to just inside the setscrew if the car seems to tip coming out of the turns.
4. I can't really say if it is better to narrow the tires or add weight. You will have to experiment. The best possible solution is not to add weight and run a narrower tire, but you may end up with a car that is too twitchy to drive.
5. The driving style is also a little different with this chassis. Because the chassis is about a 1/8" shorter than other chassis you can go deeper into the turns and may not be able to punch it out as hard but you overall corner speed will be faster.
6. We have done some experimenting with the .036 heavy pan and have had better results with the .025 light pan. The light pan allows us to get the movement we want and we are able to put the weight where we want.
Regards and good luck with your Flexi. Mount an OS Caddy GTP on it and you are set to go. This will work great on a King track.
I had this saved as a file on my hard drive for a few years:
Building a National Winning Flexi-Kar
How to build a National winning Flexi-Kar
1. Before you begin to build you chassis there are some parts that you will need: Parma #588L Flexi-Kar chassis, #623 1/8 or #624 3/32 rear axle bushings, 1/16 front axle, leadwire, guide nut, Slick 7 .015 guide spacers, 2 guide clips, a piece of .055 piano wire, PSE #70223 cut down guide, #70291 Pro-Lites, #71021 3/32 x .765 or #71025 1/8 x .770 Full Big Hub Tunas.
2. The first thing that you will need to do is to make sure both the center section and pans are totally flat.
3. Next you will need to take a Dremel and grind off the plating where you will be soldering. A) Front axle uprights
upright motor mount and chassis where the motor and brace will be soldered C) Rear pillow blocks for the bushings D) Earring back for leadwires. I have colored the areas in black, for an example. 4. You MUST cut out the motor brace so you will be able to get the proper gear mesh with today's lower gearing.
5. You will need to get a .015 Teflon guide spacer and put it over the hinge that holds the pan in place.
6. Place the pan over the center section where it would be when you have the chassis together. You will notice that the pan does not sit flat with the bottom of the center section. To make it sit flat with the center section you MUST bend the Z bend on both sides to more of a bend so the sides of the pan will sit fat with the center section. The measurement should be .076", like shown.
7. After you have the pan bent right you will have to decide if you want the pan to be in the rear hole or the front hole. We recommend for GTP or high down force bodies to position the pan forward (rear holes) and for Nascar, GT1 and lower down force bodies to position the pan back (front holes).
8. If you decide to put the pan forward you will need to bend the tab that holds the pan down, forward. You will then need to put a piece of .055 piano wire under the tab and with needle nose pliers bend the back of the tab down. Remove the .055 piano wire and then you MUST adjust the tab so the pan has about .005 of play up and down. If you decide to put the pan in the rear position you will need to bend the tab down only.
9. Then slide a 1/16 front axle through the pan and center section. You MUST make sure that the both of the holes where the pan rests on the axle rest completely on the axle and that one hole is not up and one down. If one is up and one is down the pan is twisted and the car will not work properly. We use a business card in between the pan and center section so the solder does not flow them together. It is a good idea to use some sort of retainer inside the front axle uprights so your solder joint will be stronger.
10. Solder the front axle to the center section with acid flux. I like to hold the axle up to the top of the hole and then solder the axle. That lets the pan sit level with the chassis.
11. When you have the axle soldered remove the business cards and wash the chassis with soap and Scotch Brite. This will keep the chassis free of rust and let the pan move properly. To check if you have the pan tab adjusted correctly when it is forward, hold the center section in one hand and the pan in the other. If you move the pan forward it should pivot on the tab and the front of the pan must move from side to side. To check if you have the pan adjusted correctly when it is back. Again hold the center section in one hand and the pan in the other. If you move the pan back it should pivot on the tab and the front of the pan must move from side to side (kind of like a Turbo Flex chassis). If it does not move like this the tab will have to be bent up or down.
12. Then you can solder the bushings in place with acid flux. You might need to adjust the height of the holes to get them even. I like to use Parma #623 for 1/8 and #624 for 3/32 axles.
13. No matter what the class, I use PSE #70291 Pro-Lites for front wheels. You need to take two of the retainers that come with the wheels and slide them on each side of the front axle, with the flange outward. Again it is a good idea to put a business card on the front axle so the solder does not flow the pan to the axle. I position the retainers .240 from the inside of the axle uprights to the outside of the retainers and then solder to the axle. This keeps the front wheels from hindering the pan movement, when the car goes around a turn and lets the front wheels to be out as far as possible with out interfering with the body. Solder the retainers with acid flux. Wash the chassis with soap and Scotch-Brite.
14. Next, you will need to do is install the front wheels and solder the retainers. Make sure you leave .015 or so of play so the wheels can move freely. After that, bend the front axle so the wheels with no o-rings are level with the bottom of the chassis. This is a good starting point for the front wheel height but the final adjustment will be at the track. Then install the o-rings.
15. Next you will need to install the guide. PSE #70223 is the perfect setup for the front end. You will need a .015 Teflon guide washer on the top and on the bottom. This setup works well if the braid on the track is level with the track or as much as .025 of recess.
16. To get the guide angle you will need to get a set of .790 tires. The guide angle is correct when you have the braid and tires on the car and the guide sits level to the block. You can test this by pressing on the guide in the front and the back on the tech block. When you then put on .770 tires the rear tires will come up about .005-.010"
17. The car will take .770 tires to clear 1/16.
18. Next you are ready to make a motor brace and solder in the motor. Have whatever gears you think that you might be running on the motor and on the axle. Push the motor back as far as possible without it hitting the axle. Then solder the motor on the top. You will then need to bend a 1" piece of .047 piano wire in a 45 degree angle. Tack the motor brace with solder in the back. Then remove the motor and finish soldering the brace. This lets you get the motor brace in the correct position without getting acid flux on your motor. Then wash the chassis with soap and Scotch Brite. Some rules may not allow you to have a motor brace so check first.
19. After you have the motor brace soldered in, resolder the motor with the correct gear mesh on the top and in the back. You must solder the motor in the back because of the way the upright motor brace was cut. If you do not solder it in the back when you hit something the motor will twist forward and you will loose your mesh.
20. Next install the earring back to the chassis and install the leadwires. Like shown.
21. One of the most important things about how this chassis works is the front wheel height. The wheels must touch all of the time but not hold the guide out of the slot. You want a maximum of .005 of clearance between the wheels and the track. The less space the better. Make sure you also oil the wheels but be careful not to get any oil on the axle where the pan touches.
General tips that will help with the tuning of the car
1. Sometimes we tape the chassis to get different movement out of the chassis.
There is no specific time when we tape it. Sometimes it will work better and sometimes it will not. Like shown.
2. Most of the time when we run a low downforce some weight needs to be added.
You will need to experiment and find the best combo for your driving and track. About 6 to 8 grams split into 3 or 4 pieces is a good rule to follow. Remember the more weight you put towards the rear the more the looser the car will slide. We also try to keep the weight even from side to side unless there is a particular turn that is giving us trouble. Then we might either try to off set the rear end a bit or add weight to one side more than the other as long as it does not affect the other turns.
3. The best tires that we have found to work are the PSE Full Big Hub Tunas. The outside diameter is .480". If you use a hub smaller than .450" you are wasting your time. I have never found small hub tires to work better no matter how loose the track is. You may need to narrow the tires to just inside the setscrew if the car seems to tip coming out of the turns.
4. I can't really say if it is better to narrow the tires or add weight. You will have to experiment. The best possible solution is not to add weight and run a narrower tire, but you may end up with a car that is too twitchy to drive.
5. The driving style is also a little different with this chassis. Because the chassis is about a 1/8" shorter than other chassis you can go deeper into the turns and may not be able to punch it out as hard but you overall corner speed will be faster.
6. We have done some experimenting with the .036 heavy pan and have had better results with the .025 light pan. The light pan allows us to get the movement we want and we are able to put the weight where we want.
Regards and good luck with your Flexi. Mount an OS Caddy GTP on it and you are set to go. This will work great on a King track.
"Ya gotta be in it to win it"
Ray Carlisi
Ray Carlisi
#3
Cheater
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Posted 16 September 2008 - 10:16 PM
Ray,
The only problem with your post is that the author is not credited.
It is Paul Ciccarello, pronounced not "Chick-a-rell-o" but "Sic-a-rell-o". It's not Chickie, but Sickie!
Anyway, Paulie could make a Flexi-1 run like no one else. His building instructions are a great place to start. At one time, this article was available via the Parma/PSE website, but no longer.
Pablo, as I view it there are two main issues with the Flexi-1.
First, you have to "ride" on the front wheels, and there are no "wings". Paul would check his F-1s for front wheel height on a tech block between just about every heat in a race. (IMO that's why he used body clips; getting the pins back in cleanly for a race would be almost impossible.) Getting the front wheels positioned for best handling is critical with this chassis.
Second, the Flexi-1s require a very different driving style. You can't hammer 'em like a Turbo-Flex. You have to drive them very delicately. If I remember, you go in very deep and come out very soft. But to tell you the truth, I never got to where I could drive Flexi-1s very well. Tried them for a while, because they were beating me, but they weren't any faster than my T-Flexes and a lot less durable.
The only problem with your post is that the author is not credited.
It is Paul Ciccarello, pronounced not "Chick-a-rell-o" but "Sic-a-rell-o". It's not Chickie, but Sickie!
Anyway, Paulie could make a Flexi-1 run like no one else. His building instructions are a great place to start. At one time, this article was available via the Parma/PSE website, but no longer.
Pablo, as I view it there are two main issues with the Flexi-1.
First, you have to "ride" on the front wheels, and there are no "wings". Paul would check his F-1s for front wheel height on a tech block between just about every heat in a race. (IMO that's why he used body clips; getting the pins back in cleanly for a race would be almost impossible.) Getting the front wheels positioned for best handling is critical with this chassis.
Second, the Flexi-1s require a very different driving style. You can't hammer 'em like a Turbo-Flex. You have to drive them very delicately. If I remember, you go in very deep and come out very soft. But to tell you the truth, I never got to where I could drive Flexi-1s very well. Tried them for a while, because they were beating me, but they weren't any faster than my T-Flexes and a lot less durable.
Gregory Wells
Never forget that first place goes to the racer with the MOST laps, not the racer with the FASTEST lap
#4
Ron Hershman
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Posted 17 September 2008 - 12:10 AM
First question... Do you "have" to run a Flexi 1 chassis???
If so, I was winning with those things way before Chicky ever raced them.
If you have to run a Flexi 1 chassis and you're running a wing body with full side dams/air control... use 1/2" rubber Slick 7 type fronts... .775" rears... and a cut-down guide flag if your allowed to run one and the lightweight pan.
Bodies... we used to use the flattest body you could get when running air dam bodies. Outisight Tiga comes to mind first. The other bodies we used to run are no longer available from Parma. A few other good bodies might be the O/S Serpent and Viper.
Even with 1/16" clearance in the front, no need for the fronts to touch with a air control body. You will have plenty of downforce to make the car handle and not want to tip out if your were running a scale type body.
Also what track will you be racing on???
If so, I was winning with those things way before Chicky ever raced them.
If you have to run a Flexi 1 chassis and you're running a wing body with full side dams/air control... use 1/2" rubber Slick 7 type fronts... .775" rears... and a cut-down guide flag if your allowed to run one and the lightweight pan.
Bodies... we used to use the flattest body you could get when running air dam bodies. Outisight Tiga comes to mind first. The other bodies we used to run are no longer available from Parma. A few other good bodies might be the O/S Serpent and Viper.
Even with 1/16" clearance in the front, no need for the fronts to touch with a air control body. You will have plenty of downforce to make the car handle and not want to tip out if your were running a scale type body.
Also what track will you be racing on???
#5
Pablo
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Posted 17 September 2008 - 08:48 AM
Thank you, Gentlemen, I appreciate it.
Ron, the track is an old 155' blue King. No, I don't have to use the Flexi 1. I have C7, C11, and T-Flex frames but the Flexi 1 was a gift and I thought I would set it up and run it in weekly races.
PS: Lookie here, I set a track record track record. Eat your heart out, Pappy.
Ron, the track is an old 155' blue King. No, I don't have to use the Flexi 1. I have C7, C11, and T-Flex frames but the Flexi 1 was a gift and I thought I would set it up and run it in weekly races.
PS: Lookie here, I set a track record track record. Eat your heart out, Pappy.
Paul Wolcott
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Bill from NH
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Posted 17 September 2008 - 09:02 AM
Pablo, don't you have a Tiga body? I think it's yellow, purple, and white.
The Parma setup article with photos for the Flexi 1 was in a couple issues of Slot Car Bulletin. I'll have to see if I still have them.
The Parma setup article with photos for the Flexi 1 was in a couple issues of Slot Car Bulletin. I'll have to see if I still have them.
Bill Fernald
I intend to live forever! So far, so good.
I intend to live forever! So far, so good.
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Ron Hershman
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Posted 17 September 2008 - 10:30 AM
pablo, on Sep 17 2008, 06:48 AM, said:
You may find a car built using the C-11 might be the fastest of all of them. I would also suggest trying soft "Wonder" rubber tires as well.Ron, the track is an old 155' blue King. No, I don't have to use the Flexi 1. I have C7, C11, and T-Flex frames but the Flexi 1 was a gift and I thought I would set it up and run it in weekly races.
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Posted 17 September 2008 - 02:20 PM
Bill, the photos would be nice if you can find them.
Wonder rubber? Who sells those, Alpha ?
Wonder rubber? Who sells those, Alpha ?
Paul Wolcott
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Pablo
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Posted 17 September 2008 - 03:19 PM
Thanks, Ron. Yes, the body I have is an Outisight Tiga. 
Painted by Bill of NH and very beautiful.
Painted by Bill of NH and very beautiful.
Paul Wolcott
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bres3000
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On The Lead Lap
Posted 17 September 2008 - 03:39 PM
I coulda sworn Pablo said "Photos would be greatly appreciated."
I LOVE pitchers!
I LOVE pitchers!
I've saved you the trouble, Nappy.
(enjoy the next eight years)
(enjoy the next eight years)
#12
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Posted 17 September 2008 - 04:44 PM
No need to get TOO worked up about it; as I read the Paul C. instructions, looks like the gifter already did most of the hard work. It is already flat, straight, ground, and hogged-out.
One thing I don't understand is why I should use a "cut-down" flag when I need to have .063" clearance in front anyway?
I can hardly wait to beat somebody using a "newer" chassis with this thing.
It is already flat, straight, ground, and hogged-out. One thing I don't understand is why I should use a "cut-down" flag when I need to have .063" clearance in front anyway?
I can hardly wait to beat somebody using a "newer" chassis with this thing.
Paul Wolcott
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Ron Hershman
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Posted 17 September 2008 - 07:20 PM
Awwwww here comes the old "speed secret/trick"...
Use the cut down guide, get the front as low as possible. When you tech the car in, you "jack" the braids so they raise the front of the car to pass tech... then when you get the car back before the race, you flatten the braid.
You might be surprised how many "others" are already doing this against you.
Use the cut down guide, get the front as low as possible. When you tech the car in, you "jack" the braids so they raise the front of the car to pass tech... then when you get the car back before the race, you flatten the braid.
You might be surprised how many "others" are already doing this against you.
#14
Pablo
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Posted 17 September 2008 - 07:42 PM
Noted from a purely scientific standpoint, Ron.
Paul Wolcott
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Posted 20 September 2008 - 08:16 PM
The right tools make all the difference...
Paul Wolcott
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Hworth08
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Posted 21 September 2008 - 10:10 AM
At a track that is closed now, with the hope of drawing new customers, we came up with the Econo class. The frame had to be a used Flexi Kar with the $5 Falcon 1 motor. Any clearence in the front with .032 rear so a person could re-use older rear tires. Only the Parma Intrepid body with any axles and gears.
The Falcon 1 motor was a bit slow (and short lived) but these cars DID handle! Usually punched on three of the six Engleman corners.
We had a lot of fun "hiring" a newbie driver and watching/pitting/advising for these races! I found a 14 year old that after only a couple hours practice was a driving machine. Friendly and not knowing enough to question my setups, he often could drive a 180 lap race without a de-slot.
Nothing wrong with a Flexi 1 frame, at the national races the Flexi 1 might have more wins than any other frame in the high downforce classes over the years. A driver just has to protect the front wheels.
The Falcon 1 motor was a bit slow (and short lived) but these cars DID handle! Usually punched on three of the six Engleman corners.
We had a lot of fun "hiring" a newbie driver and watching/pitting/advising for these races! I found a 14 year old that after only a couple hours practice was a driving machine. Friendly and not knowing enough to question my setups, he often could drive a 180 lap race without a de-slot.
Nothing wrong with a Flexi 1 frame, at the national races the Flexi 1 might have more wins than any other frame in the high downforce classes over the years. A driver just has to protect the front wheels.
Don Hollingsworth
11/6/54-2/13/18
Requiescat in Pace
11/6/54-2/13/18
Requiescat in Pace
#17
Pablo
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Posted 21 September 2008 - 07:34 PM
Thanks for the input, Don.
With a diaplane and the usual filament tape up front, shouldn't be a problem.
Quote
A driver just has to protect the front wheels.
With a diaplane and the usual filament tape up front, shouldn't be a problem.
Paul Wolcott
#18
Cheater
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Posted 21 September 2008 - 07:35 PM
If that's what you're thinking, Pablo, you're in for a rude awakening...
Gregory Wells
Never forget that first place goes to the racer with the MOST laps, not the racer with the FASTEST lap
#19
Pablo
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Posted 21 September 2008 - 07:54 PM
I remember somebody telling me the hot tip in the heat of the battle was to pop off the O-ring, straighten the axle so the wheel was level with bottom of chassis, reinstall O-ring, and go on down the road. Now, why the negativity Mr. cheater? 
I ain't tryin ta win the world championship here. If the wing body is destroyed, that's just another opportunity to learn and practice how to wing bodies Whoops, sorry, Bill. 
I ain't tryin ta win the world championship here.
If the wing body is destroyed, that's just another opportunity to learn and practice how to wing bodies Whoops, sorry, Bill.
Paul Wolcott
#20
Bill from NH
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Age scrubs away speed!
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Posted 21 September 2008 - 08:44 PM
pablo, on Sep 21 2008, 08:54 PM, said:
What I didn't tell you was that body came to me all the way from California, so it's a world traveler. Some guy on OWH was selling off his I-15 program and I picked up a box of his bodies.If the wing body is destroyed, that's just another opportunity to learn and practice how to wing bodies
I painted two, both given away to friends (I have at least two. ), the rest are still in Krylon clear.
Bill Fernald
I intend to live forever! So far, so good.
I intend to live forever! So far, so good.
#21
Pablo
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Posted 21 September 2008 - 09:03 PM
Now I'm having second thoughts. Maybe I should rathole the Bill body and build a new one. Save the Bill body for a "special" occasion. 
Paul Wolcott
#22
Hworth08
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Posted 22 September 2008 - 09:27 AM
I'm agreeing with Pablo that the Wing body will help protect the front end and the guide tongue as well. The Intrepid I used was .010" and I mounted the body pretty far foward. I installed a Wing diaplane that was trimmed to not to extend outside the body. Followed that with body armor both inside and out that extended past the front wheels.
However, a slot car seldom hits a wall "head-on", usually a glancing hit that would still bend the front axle. I carry a small pair of needle nose pliers in my pocket when racing any Flexi chassis.
A body hint that works. In a class that uses Wing bodies with motors such as the Deathstar, you can pick up some straightaway speed by having a spoiler that completely lays down. Use a spoiler that mounts an inch and a half or so foward and under the body. If a person finds more downforce is needed, add double stick tape towards the rear of the body to hold the spoiler up.
However,
a slot car seldom hits a wall "head-on", usually a glancing hit that would still bend the front axle. I carry a small pair of needle nose pliers in my pocket when racing any Flexi chassis.A body hint that works. In a class that uses Wing bodies with motors such as the Deathstar, you can pick up some straightaway speed by having a spoiler that completely lays down. Use a spoiler that mounts an inch and a half or so foward and under the body. If a person finds more downforce is needed, add double stick tape towards the rear of the body to hold the spoiler up.
Don Hollingsworth
11/6/54-2/13/18
Requiescat in Pace
11/6/54-2/13/18
Requiescat in Pace
#23
Bill from NH
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Age scrubs away speed!
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Posted 22 September 2008 - 08:14 PM
pablo, on Sep 21 2008, 10:03 PM, said:
I don't paint shelf queens! Go ahead and wreck it! I can paint another one.Now I'm having second thoughts. Maybe I should rathole the Bill body and build a new one. Save the Bill body for a "special" occasion.
Bill Fernald
I intend to live forever! So far, so good.
I intend to live forever! So far, so good.
#24
Pablo
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Posted 22 September 2008 - 08:24 PM
I'm working up the courage to install the air control devices. I don't want to screw this up. I have instructions so I should be OK.
I have instructions so I should be OK.
Paul Wolcott
#25
NJ Racer
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Posted 22 September 2008 - 09:06 PM
Pablo,
The wing body is an interesting idea, however a Caddy HD GTP is the traditional body I have used on that chassis on a King. A hotter motor like a Super 16C will complete that setup IMO.
Post some picks when you have completed your project.
The wing body is an interesting idea, however a Caddy HD GTP is the traditional body I have used on that chassis on a King. A hotter motor like a Super 16C will complete that setup IMO.
Post some picks when you have completed your project.
"Ya gotta be in it to win it"
Ray Carlisi
Ray Carlisi
