101 replies to this topic

[dc-65x]

I've been looking forward to this build. The Lancer McLaren in the title of this thread is their Super Competition version of the Mk6 that I finally acquired:

 

 

It's one of the first four Super Competition bodies released. Below are the four bodies from the catalog list included with the body:

 

 

This series of bodies have all the detail of their scale series but are just a tad lower and wider for better handling.

 

 

 

 

Love that detail......Lancer was amazing.

 

 

Here are the "Fabulous First Four" bodies shown in the first of two 1968 Auto World catalogs:

 

 

This build will finish my quartet of the first 4 Lancer Super Comp cars:

 

 

 

 

Next up will be my "inspirational chassis" for the build. It's a real beauty by Sandy Gross that I've never seen pictures of in any publication.

 

And what in the heck is a Super-Boochie motor in the thread title.......    

[don.siegel]

Can't wait... 

 

For a teaser, that's a good teaser. 

 

I've never found one of these super competition bodies either, Dynamic must have taken over the market by then. The McLaren actually looks pretty scale! 

 

Rick, do you know if they ever released the 2G in this series? 

 

Don 

[dc-65x]

Hi Don,

 

The first releases of Lancer's Super Comp series were quite scale-looking. They somehow managed to increase their performance enhancing proportions without making them looked 'stepped on.' Later releases start getting a more 'squished' look but I still think they look like cars and not doorstops. Their Mirage GT is in this category with small wheel openings for smaller diameter tires but I think it still has a great look.

 

I'm looking for the Chaparral 2G. I've built the Matich SR3 already and with the 2G I'll have the first six of the Super Comp series. 

 

Here's a picture I found of the Super Comp 2G body:

 

[Martin]

Your thinking is correct, Don; Lancer did make a 2G super competition #964. Pic to follow.
 
Such cool cars, Rick. Love 'em.
 
Lancer Group 3: Later Bodies
 
Would the 2H fit your parameters also?
 

[Phil Smith]

Rick,
 
I think most people are aware of how hard it is to photograph an unpainted, clear body. You do a great job of it.
 
Keep up the good work!

[dc-65x]

Hi Martin.

 

My... that's a nice-looking Chaparral you've got there... hehehe.      And yes, I also like the 2H. PM to follow.    
 
Thanks, Phil. That's much appreciated.  
 
On to the chassis for this build. Here are the chassis pictures Sandy Gross sent Howie Ursaner and I posted in our thread on Howie's Arco car.
 
Link to Howie's Arco build below: 
 
Howie's amazing 1967 Arco coupe/sports car
 
The chassis I'm going to build will be based on Sandy's chassis pictured on the right below:
 

Howie send me some pictures Sandy took of the chassis he still has:
 

 

At some point Steve Okeefe was able to take some great closeup photo's of the chassis and he shared them with me:

 

 

 

I like it.     I think it's very cool and the only thing I'm planning on changing on my 'inspired by' version is making up some 'Duffys' for rear axle ball bearings instead of 3/16" oilites.

 

Now, onward to that "Super-Boochie"... I hope!

[Don Weaver]

Rick,

 

I have a pair of Duffy's "Duffys" as well as a pair of original NOS 1960s Duffys (takes larger bearings) if you would like.

 

Don

[dc-65x]

Thank you for the offer, Don. I actually enjoy making up a pair of Duffys for an inline build on my hobby lathe.

 

But thanks again.  

[Bill from NH]

Appears to be another nice project in the works.

[Larry Horner]

Very cool pan design. Looking forward to seeing this one come together!

[Tex]

"Love that detail......Lancer was amazing."

 

 

agreed. I absolutely drool over how crisply the wheel arches are cut out for the wheels! even with a template, I could never get mine to look near as good.

 

[dc-65x]

Thanks guys for following along and chiming in.    

 

OK, here goes. I'm building the motor first:

 

This build dates to the “last of the inline” era, the first quarter of 1968. The motors of choice were pretty much the Champion 517 or a hot rodded 68 ball bearing can Mabuchi.

 

I’m going with the “hopped up” Mabuchi. I thought it would be a fun project to throw absolutely every period modification (aftermarket and otherwise) I could come up with at it and see what happens.

 

I’ve always liked the names of Mura’s “Hemi-Boochie” and Ram’s “Ram-Boochie” so in the hopes that my motor is super-fast I’m calling it the “Super-Boochie”.

 

“Super” is the goal anyway, let’s see what happens.

 

First modification is with that low temperature nylon “meltable” end bell. Mini Wheels made a kit to bullet proof it. Here’s their period ad:

 

 

Here’s what the kit includes:

 

 

But if a little bit of something is good, a lot of something has to be better…..right? I’m going to make my own bullet proofing kit and “super size” the components.

 

One of the first things to melt on the Mabuchi end bell are the plastic spring posts. This one melted on me even with brass protective covers:

 

 

Rodney and I have both run across period Mabuchi end bells with the spring post cut off and replaced with a metal screw, sometimes with a metal tube press over the screw head.

 

Here’s the kits thin sheet metal post cover on the left and my lathe turned brass screw in post with 2-56 machine screw on the right………

 

 

……….and the modified end bell with the plastic post removed and drilled and tapped for the new metal post also on the right:

 

 

The bearing plate get’s beefed up next.

[dc-65x]

The Mini Wheels bullet proofing kit has a big .016" thick brass plate you solder the Mabuchi end bell bearing into. This is supposed to draw away the heat caused by friction in the bearing.

 

I have a different idea based on nothing but my gut feeling and right or wrong I went with it. I'm using quality SKF vintage ball bearings which my gut tells me will reduce the friction/heat problem of the oilite bearing.

 

Another problem with mounting the bearing on a plate is the end bell has to be modified by cutting off the bearing flange leaving a VERY thin and weak area right where the motor mounts to the chassis. My bearing plate should address this nicely:

 

 

I decided to make a thick aluminum bearing mount shown below compared to the Mini Wheels parts. I'm also bonding the bearing plate to the end bell so it won't move around and end up in a slightly different location eveytime the motor is unscrewed from the chassis. The screws are 2-56 stainless steel machine screws, not the self tapping jobs that often cause the 50 year old plastic end bell to crack:

 

 

Next up, Champion is coming on board with a big change in brush hardware.....

[Bill from NH]

Won't that aluminum plate stay glued in place longer/stronger/better if its two holes for the 2-56 screws are clearance holes rather than tapped 2-56?

[dc-65x]

Hi Bill. Things really show up in the closeup photos. The holes are not tapped. I drilled the clearance holes .086" which is the body diameter of the 2-56 screws so there is virtually no "slopski" in the holes. On one of the test fittings of the part I had it a little cockeyed and the screw cut into the side of the hole.

 

That's a boo boo.     

[Larry Horner]

That's the real reason I post crappy photos. 

[dc-65x]

It's amazing how much more detail I see in the photos......and I wear "geezer goggles" when building.   

[dc-65x]

The last part needed for my version of the Mini Wheels bullet proofing kit are the brass side plates. They are .016" thick and do not extend past the sides end bell. 

 

SUPER SIZE TIME.  If .016" thick is good .032" must be better.     To absorb even more heat I'm making the plates twice as big to extend past the sides of the end bell.

 

My super sized piece is on the right:

 

 

My completed bullet proofing parts kit is on the right:

 

 

Now it's time to put things together with some help from Champion.

[Pablo]

   

[dc-65x]

Hi Pablo.

 

To make this Mabuchi more "super" I'm adding some Champion components from their period 517. Below are their larger "pig tail" brushes and corresponding hex brush holders and pent roof brush hoods from their 16D and 26D motors:

 

 

The larger 26D brush is on the right compared to the 16D Mabuchi:

 

 

Champion pent roof brush hood on the right with 2-56 machine screws replacing the end bell splitting self tapping screws:

 

 

The larger 26D hex brush holder on the right. It's been modified by filing as much off the bottom as possible so it can be soldered to the bullet proofing side plate:

 

 

 

And that soldering of the brush holders to the side plates is what's up next. Below is the soldering jig instructions that's included with the Mini Wheels kit:

 

 

 

I'm beginning to think there's nothing I can't fixture in my Rick's jig. It worked perfectly for this job:

 

 

The finished side plate/brush holders soldered up with hi temp silver solder:

 

 

That's all the pieces. Time to put them all together................

[dc-65x]

The end bell for this project is finished.  

 

Here are comparison photos with a stock Mabuchi end bell:

 

 

 

 

 

The can modifications are next.....

[Tex]

it's like the Transformer of endbells!  LOL

[Bill from NH]

Rick, what product did you use to glue the bearing to the aluminum plate? One of Loctite's?

[Phil Smith]

That is too cool!

[Don Weaver]

The BEAST of all endbells.  The look alone is enough to scare off the competition...