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Lancer McLaren, Gross chassis, & Super-Boochie power


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#26 don.siegel

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Posted 13 August 2022 - 06:32 AM

Rick, 

 

Looks great but how are you going to attach that endbell to the bracket? Maybe I missed something in here... 

 

Don 






#27 dc-65x

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Posted 13 August 2022 - 11:15 AM

Thanks guys. My Super-Boochie concept idea might be turning into a Beasty-Boochie.   :shok:  :laugh2:  :D

 

Gluing the bearing plate to the end bell is only to keep it from shifting to a slightly different position when the screws are removed to attach the motor to the chassis. Those screws are what lock everything together. And I've also made the screw holes in the bearing plate with almost no slop. When the screws are loosened the bearing plate doesn't shift around.

 

I've had good luck using JB Weld to attach bearing plates to Champion Orange Picker end bells. This time I'm trying this ZAP glue. Again, this is just to keep the bearing plate from falling off during motor installation. It is not to add strength to the assembly. The screws lock things up tight:

 

zap glue.jpg

 

If the bearing plate comes loose when I'm using the motor during chassis construction I'll go back to JB Weld. 


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#28 dc-65x

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Posted 14 August 2022 - 10:56 AM

One last detail with the end bell. It needs to be clearanced for larger commutators used on rewound armatures. An Xacto knife takes car of that shown with the end bell on the top:

 

super-boochie (7).JPG

 

Now on to the can modifications starting with removing the awful crap-o-la bearing. I've tried various methods to accomplish this. Using my milling machine with an end mill I can plunge cut a few thousands at a time until the bearing housing simply falls off:

 

super-boochie (15).JPG

 

A can bearing "duffy" lathe turned from brass and it..........

 

super-boochie (16).JPG

 

.......and a real ball bearing are soldered to the can from the inside.....

 

super-boochie (19).JPG

 

.........to keep things neat and clean on the outside:

 

super-boochie (20).JPG

 

super-boochie (18).JPG

 

The can is finished with drilling the end bell mounting holes:

 

super-boochie (21).JPG

 

 


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#29 dc-65x

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Posted 19 August 2022 - 11:19 AM

Before final assembly of the motor I set it up with just the can and stripped end bell all wrapped up in Teflon tape for use during chassis construction:

 

chassis (4).JPG

 

A pair of rear bearing retainers ("duffys") were lathe turned for 1/4" ball bearings:

 

chassis (1).JPG

 

I opened up the Russkit bracket to 3/16" using a hand drill with a tapper pin reamer and finishing with an on size reamer:

 

chassis (2).JPG

 

The bracket is all soldered up and I'm ready to set up the Rick's jig and start bending main rails:

 

chassis (3).JPG


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#30 dc-65x

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Posted 23 August 2022 - 08:51 PM

I'm setting the inside rail spacing at 15/16". Spacer gizmos made from 1/8" brass rod make this possible with the Rick's jig:

 

chassis (5).JPG

 

Here's the jig set up with all the pins and spacer gizmos for the rest of the main rails:

 

chassis (7).JPG

 

All the main rails installed:

 

chassis (6).JPG

 

After I install the drop arm hinge and piano wire cross brace I'll follow Mike Steube's chassis building video and go over all the solder joints again with a good dose of heat and acid flux to smooth them out........


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#31 Pablo

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Posted 24 August 2022 - 08:48 AM

:clapping:  :D   :heart:

 

Fresh duffies, I love it    :shok:  B:) 

The protective wrap makes the motor look like it's gonna rob a bank  :crazy:​ 


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#32 dc-65x

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Posted 24 August 2022 - 03:04 PM

HI Pablo,

 

Look at all the stuff I had plugged into the jig:   :shok:

 

chassis (12).JPG

 

Back in the day I mostly had burned fingers.   :laugh2:


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#33 dc-65x

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Posted 26 August 2022 - 09:10 PM

With the main rails tacked in place the chassis was straight, flat and really needed the solder joints touched up and the entire chassis cleaned up:

 

chassis (9).JPG

 

But first the rear of the chassis needed beefing up......

 

chassis (8).JPG

 

Sandy took care of that and I followed his lead for the most part just tweaking mine a bit:

 

chassis (19).JPG

 

I added the rod soldered to the bottom of the Russkit bracket and to each side of the main rails:

 

chassis (16).JPG

 

chassis (20).JPG

 

The center section of the chassis is finished, cleaned up (but not polished yet  :) ):

 

chassis (18).JPG

 

chassis (17).JPG

 

chassis (13).JPG

 

The drop arm is next.........


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#34 dc-65x

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Posted 28 August 2022 - 11:32 AM

Sandy's drop arm has that distinctive radius cut that I wanted to duplicate:

 

Sandy Gross chassis (1).jpg

 

My syphering guesstimates the radius at 1 5/8".  A art supply store circle template, Lucky Bobs armature dye and a scribe laid out the cut and a cutoff disc roughed it out:

 

chassis (21).JPG

 

Files and sandpaper finished it off:

 

chassis (22).JPG

 

The Rick's jig lines up the piano wire bits to hold the guide tube:

 

chassis (24).JPG

 

The rear of the drop arm needs some work. Sandy cut off the rear of his drop arm flush with the pivot tube. This allows it to clear the piano wire cross brace so the drop arm and move freely.

 

I decided to let the drop arm hang over the cross brace and use Mr. Milling Machine to cut a .010" step to allow it to drop down a bit:

 

chassis (25).JPG

 

chassis (28).JPG

 

The cross brace allows this much "drop" for the arm. No separate downward stop needed:

 

chassis (31).JPG

 

The center section is ready for "floating pans".......

 

chassis (29).JPG

 

 


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#35 dc-65x

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Posted 31 August 2022 - 08:34 PM

I decided to make up the wheels and tires and assemble a roller to set the body on before I finalize the pans.

I'm using our reproduction Russkit wheels, discontinued Alpha "Humongous" donuts and K&B hard vinyl Goodyear front tires:

 

wheels-tires (2).JPG

 

The rears fresh out of the Hudy and 1/32" oversize for final finishing:

 

wheels-tires (3).JPG

 

The fronts finish ground:

 

wheels-tires (1).JPG


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#36 Larry Horner

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Posted 31 August 2022 - 08:58 PM

I'm a couple of posts behind but your motor mount looks uber strong and I still marvel at your custom made Duffy's. Wonder if my landlord would mind if I put a metal lathe in the foyer?



#37 dc-65x

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Posted 01 September 2022 - 10:25 AM

Hi Larry,

 

I'd have to put a real lathe in my garage and the older I get the less attractive that is. I'm using this little hobby lathe for the duffys:

 

ToysForRetirement008.jpg

 

I even managed to make some set screw wheels with it. But all through the process I kept thinking how much faster and easier it would be with a bigger machine...........in the garage.......ARG!    :laugh2:


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#38 dc-65x

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Posted 07 September 2022 - 04:53 PM

I wanted to finish up the motor since it is no longer needed as a jig motor. The can got Champion magnets and extra .004" thick shims to tighten up the air gap:

 

super-boochie (31).JPG

 

I looked through all the races tech charts in Model Car Journal between January and April 1968 and found the racers were, by an overwhelming majority, running single 26 winds in their motors. There was one lonely single 27 listed and that's what I happen to have:

 

super-boochie (12).JPG

 

The armature for my early 1968 build should have:

 

Standard thickness laminations, no .007 or .005 jobs.

Fiber end plate insulators for the armature stack, no powder coat.

Soldered wire to commutator connections, no welding.

 

The new old stock Thorp beauty fills the bill. Here it's all spiffed up and ready to install:

 

super-boochie (32).JPG

 

Soon I'll find out if this motor lives up to its name:    :crazy:

 

Super-Boochie Finished (1).JPG

 

I think the end bell give it a pretty trick look:

 

Super-Boochie Finished (2).JPG

 

Super-Boochie Finished (5).JPG

 

super-boochie (36).JPG

 

 

 

 


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#39 don.siegel

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Posted 07 September 2022 - 05:05 PM

What a good looking motor Rick! 

 

The arm has no apparent epoxy: I assume it's a transparent type that diffused through the windings. Seems odd to not even see a hint of it - or maybe that's just my sloppy epoxy jobs I'm used to... and by the way, we can see this detail thanks to your excellent camera work. 

 

Don 



#40 dc-65x

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Posted 07 September 2022 - 08:52 PM

Thanks Don. With a bright light and magnifying glass I can see traces of epoxy shining between some of the windings. I thought about adding more epoxy but that might throw the arm out of balance. And since Thorp balancing had such a good reputation I thought I'd just leave well enough alone!  


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#41 dc-65x

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Posted 15 September 2022 - 08:23 PM

With the motor done I got it in the chassis with a vintage steel 7T pinion gear from Buzzy's eBay auction and a NOS Weldun 31T crown gear:

 

chassis (39).JPG

 

NOS Cox quick change guide, Cox Superflex lead wires and Phase III braid:

 

chassis (40).JPG

 

Careful positioning of the guide in the drop arm's cutout makes for a built in guide stop:

 

chassis (34).JPG

 

With the body positioned over the roller center section........

 

chassis (36).JPG

 

.......I can position the pan hinges which also support the pin tube body mounts correctly. i want them about 1/4" back from the wheel openings in the body:

 

chassis (35).JPG

 

Pans are next and the chassis will be done.


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#42 Pablo

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Posted 16 September 2022 - 08:54 AM

:dance3:  :D  Motor looks like it could burn furrows in the track  :aggressive:  :aggressive:  :aggressive:


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#43 dc-65x

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Posted 16 September 2022 - 08:52 PM

Thanks Pablo  :)

 

I decided to do my pans a bit differently than Sandy did on his beautiful chassis. He used 1/64" or 1/32" X 1/4" brass strip and built up the outer edge with 1/16" brass rod. He also had to bend a kink in the piano wire hinge so it would sit flat on the brass strip pan:

 

Sandy Gross chassis (2).jpg

 

I used 1/16" thick brass strip (leaving off the 1/16" brass rod) and machined a little relief for the wire hinge so I wouldn't have to bend that kink for it to lay flat:

 

chassis (38).JPG

 

My home made vise stop meant I could quickly put the pan in the vise, machine the relief on one end, flip it around and machine the other end, put in another pan and repeat the process:

 

chassis (37).JPG

 

The pan hinges also have the body mount pin tubes soldered on top of them. I set the spacing up so my Rick's jig would align them both by leaving them long and cutting to size after soldering:

 

chassis (33).JPG

 

chassis (41).JPG

 

Here's the pan hinge and pin tube soldered into the little relief in the pan:

 

chassis (43).JPG

 

Here are the pans installed on the chassis along with a down stop just like Sandy's:

 

chassis (42).JPG

 

With the pans installed the chassis is finished. I will put a nice polish on it but first I want to get the body mounted:

 

chassis (41).JPG


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#44 dc-65x

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Posted 19 September 2022 - 06:49 PM

I found that for this factory trimmed body I could use my Rick's jig to square up the rolling chassis and body for mounting:

 

body (3).JPG

 

It worked amazingly well locking the body in alignment for pinning. Here's the jig and all the various dowel pins and shims:

 

body (1).JPG

 

I always like to include engine detail like velocity stacks but the ones on the McLaren Mk6 I'm using for inspiration aren't vertical but angled at about 45 degrees. Maybe there was a model kit back in the day that could have been "kit bashed" for stacks but I found this from Shapeways and I like it so much I just have to use it:

 

body (2).JPG

 

It has amazing detail with the individual tubes connection to the manifold. I epoxied reinforced everything from the bottom into one solid lump and cut it down:

 

body (5).JPG

 

it sits over 1/16" lower:

 

body (4).JPG

 

I made a little styrene motor box for it to sit down as low in the body as the chassis would allow:

 

body (8).JPG

 

I'm thinking it should look pretty cool:

 

body (7).JPG

 

Now for an interior.............

 


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#45 Tex

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Posted 20 September 2022 - 06:42 AM

your use of those velocity stacks are closer to the real deal on an M6 than you might imagine... they weren't vertical on the M6!


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#46 dc-65x

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Posted 20 September 2022 - 10:15 AM

That's right Tex.
 

...........on the McLaren Mk6 I'm using for inspiration aren't vertical but angled at about 45 degrees.

 
I wasn't sure what I could do until I found these angled stacks.


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#47 Alchemist

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Posted 20 September 2022 - 10:45 AM

Hi Rick,

 

Just when I believe that your project fabrication won't get any more fantastic than usual, you go and add wonderful tidbits, like the intake manifold with stacks you came across!

 

The finish on that piece is so smooth and so nice.

 

The only word that I feel is most appropriate is "Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious"! ! !   LOL

 

Thanks for sharing Rick.

 

More pictures please.

 

Ernie


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#48 dc-65x

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Posted 20 September 2022 - 10:49 AM

Here you go Ernie. Here's the engine on the on the factory team Mk6:

 

67_McLaren_M6-A1_DV-06_0Eng-01-800.jpg

 

My stacks will sit a bit higher but they will be as low as I can make them in a "low and wide handling body".

 

Here's the link to the engine detail at Shapeways 3D Modeling:

 

LS3 OBX intake 1/24


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#49 Larry Horner

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Posted 20 September 2022 - 11:31 AM

Wow, the detail in their model is awesome ... in the 3D viewer, I swear I could see the butterflies! That blower and manifold look pretty sweet too. Rick, is this your first venture into 3D printing?



#50 Martin

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Posted 20 September 2022 - 12:07 PM

Too bad Shape-ways part did not include the distributor. It seems to dominate the engine.

 

Rick,can the distributor be added, looks like there is room ?


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