101 replies to this topic

[dc-65x]

The finished Pro car running gear......

 

 

.........gets a cool McLaren M6 Lancer Super Comp body:

 

 

 

 

 

[Bill from NH]

Perfect! Another beautiful build Rick, Sandy would be proud. My favorite piece is the injector tubes. Those appear to be metallic in the photos. How does it drive on your track?

[dc-65x]

Thanks Bill. I really like the fuel injection detail too. I'm going to mount and true up a pair of urethane tires in the appropriate size for the test drive. My track is clean and dry with no glue right now. 

[Martin]

You have to be PRETTY pleased with the results Rick? Very nicely done. 

[don.siegel]

That's superbe Rick, another beautiful job and, as always, right in the spirit of the era. 

 

Don

[Jairus]

Beautiful!

[Noose]

Gorgeous!  Great work as always!

[Pablo]

    

[dc-65x]

Thank you, I'm glad you guys like the way it turned out too.  

 

...................... as always, right in the spirit of the era. 

 

I really try to Don. The "dawn of slot car time" to about the end of 1969 is my favorite period. 

[Martin]

If I know you Rick, you must of found a pic of this car with the #5 on the rear deck.

Found it.

I never noticed that before.

Attached Images

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[dc-65x]

That's the picture Martin. That lone number 5 is also on the Pattos Place decal sheet.  

[dc-65x]

................... I'm going to mount and true up a pair of urethane tires in the appropriate size for the test drive. My track is clean and dry with no glue right now.

 
I mounted and trued a pair of the "French" urethane tires. These are their "Parma" tires (link below):
 

 
SLOT CARS TYRES
 
These tires worked kind of ok but the motor (which is only a 27S with mild timing) easily overcame them. The tires were spinning all the way a down the straight:
 

 
Unable to fully put the power down the lap times were no better than the Pittman Motor Mashup jail door shown below which puts every bit of its power down:
 
 

DC196B + DC65A-6 + DC62B = Pittman motor mashup!
 
Lap time = 4.657
 

 

 
I got a call from Rodney who suggested a "science experiment" to find tires for my particular track surface when it's clean, without glue or rubber buildup.
 
He recommended I try these tires............
 

 
............and mount them on these rims:
 

 
Lap times to follow.....

[Alchemist]

Another "stunning" build Rick!

 

Very very impressive to say the least.

 

I'm grateful for you sharing the build.

 

Thanks Rick,

 

Ernie

[Alchemist]

Hi Rick,

 

Would you (or any Slotblog member) know of anyone that is currently reproducing this McLaren Supercompetition body or something very similar in appearance please?

 

Thank you.

 

Ernie

[dc-65x]

Thanks Ernie.   

 

I found 2 repop McLaren Mk6's but I don't know if they are the Lancer Super Competition versions. Here are the links: 

 

1/24 slotcar 1/24 scale Vintage slot car body 67 McLaren M 6A

 

LANCER MCLAREN M6A - CLEAR BODY

 

I got the H&R fish foam donuts mounted on the Pro-Track wheels and trimmed to 7/8" OD:

 

 

 

Pretty awful looking. Below, the scale diameter wheel with a decidedly non-scale diameter tire compared to my "low and wide" sized wheel and tire which are more in proportion:

 

 

Just for comparison, here is a scale 1967 wheel and tire on the right compared to the others:

 

 

But this is not a beauty contest but a test for traction on my glue free, clean Gary Gerding track.

 

The results are this tire is still crying out for at least a tiny bit of glue to hook up on my track.  

 

I still have several more tire types to try out........

[James Wendel]

The large ProTrack wheels are 5/8" diameter which translates to 15" in 1:24th scale.  That should be pretty spot-on for 1967 race car wheels.  That other wheel looks closer to 1/2", which would be a 12" wheel.

 

If you picked the natural rubber ProTracks, they should be just as grippy as the H&R fish rubber.  ProTracks are the most popular tire in the light spray glue club racing scene in Oregon.

 

Lovin' your build.  You really nailed the McLaran-orange color ... looks terrific. 

[Alchemist]

Thanks for the weblinks Rick!

 

Appreciate it.

 

Ernie

[Martin]

Interested in seeing your findings. Are you also considering silicone?

 

[dc-65x]

Thanks James and you are welcome Ernie.

 

I thought I should clarify what wheel sizes I'm dealing with in my previous photos.

 

But first, I want to show the difference between a wheels "actual diameter" and its "overall diameter" with the definition and picture below:

 

"Wheels have what's called an "actual diameter" and an "overall diameter." The actual diameter is what wheels are named after—a 15" wheel will have an actual diameter of 15" (measured between its bead sets). The wheel's overall diameter (measured from the outside edges of the wheel) will be closer to 16".

 

 

This photo shows how a "low and wide handling body" that uses smaller diameter tires can benefit from slightly smaller than scale wheels to make things look in proportion:

 

 

Martin, I've just received some "fish rubber" and "treated fish rubber" tires with small hubs from Mid America. And Rodney wants me to try some of Paul's Slot Car Tires soft urethanes and even some soft drag tires. I could add silicones to the list too.

 

When I've tried everything I won't be disappointed if my hotter 1968 and newer Pro type cars need a bit of glue. What they really need is a full size commercial track that I no longer have access to. But that's OK because I really enjoy running my 1966 R&C series and older cars with urethanes and no glue. With these cars I can push them to the limit and not have to concentrate on trying to limit wheelspin with the more powerful cars.

[Pablo]

Smaller hub OD's will give you more grip a lot quicker than searching for the magic foam rubber donuts, methinks.

[dc-65x]

I just tried "fish rubber" and "treated fish rubber" tires with small hubs from Mid America Pablo. When freshly cleaned they worked pretty well but fell off quickly. 

 

I know a tiny bit of glue would let the car hook up but this is a "science experiment" to see if I can find a tire that works on my track without glue.

 

The surprise of the testing was when I took Rodney's advise and put on a pair of Paul Gage's Slot Car Tire Shop urethane's. They were only 1/2" wide and taller at 15/16" made for 1966 R&C series cars. They really hooked up.     No surprise to Rodney I'm sure as he said they had more bite than the "French" urethane's I tried.

 

I have 2 pair of these on the way, "1/24 URETHANE SLOT CAR TIRES 2pr PGT-22160 fits all Parma & J&K 0.4" Pencil Hubs":

 

 

I can't wait for these to show up..........thanks Rodney!   

[Jay Guard]

Hey Rick:  I hope I'm not being Capt. Obvious here but I've never seen any regular sponge rubber tire, even a fine pore "Fish Rubber" tire grip up on a totally clean epoxy coated track.  Very light spray glue sure, but not with nothing at all,  Well there is one infamous tire that probably would work but it has been banned almost everywhere and that is the Kelly Bulldog tire.  I have no idea what compound or material they were made from but they would actually take the glue and rubber off of the track and render it into little rubber balls around the track and leave it completely clean.  They may have been some kind of special (silicone?) rubber but they were different than EVERYTHING else and once a lot of guys started using them everyone had to use them or you just wouldn't hookup.  All of that said I would caution you from using any kind of silicone tires on your track ever as once even an invisible layer is laid down on the track it will be very difficult for anything else to hook-up and it is extremely difficult to remove all of the silicone residue.  I suspect I will get a few 1/32 guys saying that I'm not correct but this has been my experience and is worth all of $.02 (if that).    Hope this helps a bit.

Edit... Seeing the just entered post above I agree that Urethanes might work well even thoughI have no experience with them. It is my understanding they don't leave a film as the silicones do.

[don.siegel]

Rick, 

 

I may have missed this, but have you tried the NSR tires? Not sure what they're made of, but they're not exactly urethane... on most tracks they won't hook up without some treatment being applied, but on one track here where we ran a 5-hour enduro, we used NSR tires mounted on the hubs without gluing or truing and they worked very well! They wear down like spongies, however. 

 

The other thing is whatever kind of dense foam that White Point (Germany) used, seemed to work well without any glue. Unfortunately, not sure where to get this kind of stuff now - maybe somebody in Germany could pitch in. They were very hard to true, altho we did manage with a lot of perseverence. 

 

Don 

[dc-65x]

Thanks for the informative input Jay and Don.

 

My sponge rubber part of the "science experiment" is pretty much over with my results following your experience Jay. I have one last tire to try, a pair of soft drag racing tires. 

 

I will look into NSR tires Don after I try the Canadian urethanes. My initial test with them (narrow and tall versions) was very promising until they came loose. They were not properly glued to the wheels. 

[don.siegel]

Yep, I glue with power flex super glue, then true. They're already pretty round, but a little more never hurts. And I often use the Firestone model and cut them down in both diameter and width. 

 

Don