101 replies to this topic

[Martin]

Found these pics too guys, I thought the "flower power" label was interesting.

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[dc-65x]

Hi Larry,

 

I've used Shapeways parts for transaxles before.

 

Martin, I have this Pro Tech pre wired vertex magneto for the build. I'll find out soon if I'm going to use it:

 

[Martin]

That would add some power to this flower Probably should have black wires though?

[dc-65x]

Probably should have black wires though?

 

At the first practice session for the Times Grand Prix at Riverside Raceway on June 25, 1968 red wires were used. But they were later changed to black wires for the race.    

 

Just kidding.....  

[Martin]

Could well be true, if that (story) fits your needs run with it. Artistic license, they are red here   

 

Try a sharpie on the end to test or die them. As if you do not have enough do do

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[Slot Car Rod]

First Can Am Car with fuel injection according to some.   Nice detail Rick.

[dc-65x]

Thanks Rodney. 

 

I know I've been really slow and erratic with my building and posting this car. I've been having health issues that have interfered with the process. 

 

During this delay I kept staring at the interior below that I had put together...........and I just don't like it. The motor box is to small for the magneto to fit, the interior had to be heated and raised up to fit around the Super-Boochie motor and the driver's head would be sitting up to high in the cockpit:

 

 

I redid everything:

 

 

I hope I can put it all together soon..........

[Bill from NH]

Get healthy Rick. The older we get, the longer it sometimes takes to recover.

[don.siegel]

Yep, take care Rick. 

 

Don 

[dc-65x]

Thanks Bill and Don. I'm getting around better now and I was able to work on the McLaren body. 

 

This body is butyrate so I needed to mix up some enamel paint to resemble the McLaren factory color. I used a spray out of Tamiya laquer paint called Camel to try and match:

 

 

I used Testors flat yellow, carefully added a little Testors flat red and air brushed it on.

 

 

Time to start detailing.......

[Martin]

You nailed it Rick, Glad you are "up and at'em".

I spent many hours in art class at school painting an M6 and trying to get that color on canvas.

[Larry Horner]

So glad to hear your back in action Rick! Can't wait to see this one come together.

[dc-65x]

Thank you Martin and Larry. I got the main color sprayed on the interior and engine detail pieces. Tamiya gloss aluminum on the interior, semi gloss black on the instrument panel and "motor box", silver mica for the driver's helmet and light gun metal on the injectors:

 

 

The body got all the flat black detail painting done:

 

 

[dc-65x]

I got the engine detail painted, assembled and installed in the body.

 

WOW!    

 

 

 

[don.siegel]

That looks really nice Rick. You hit it on the head! 

 

Don 

[Alchemist]

Hi Rick,

 

Glad to know you're feeling better.

 

That's some "redo". . . phenomenal to say the least;  the engine detail is "pulchritudinous!" and that color mix is gorrrrrrgeous! ! !

 

More pix please!

 

Thanks Rick.

 

Ernie

[dc-65x]

Thanks guys.   

 

I'm really pleased at the way a few detail pieces can transform a vac Pro car body. I think that's why I always the Russkit bodies with all the injection molded detail pieces, full interiors, roll bar and decals.

 

Speaking of decals, I have these from Pattos Place (the large sheet) and Indycals:

 

 

I'm using vintage Auto World and Dynamic sheets for the small sponsor decals.

 

After the decals I need to get some wheel inserts made up.........

[Slot Car Rod]

Rick, what kind of paint do you use for the flat black and how do you apply it so evenly and neatly?

[dc-65x]

Hi Rodney,

 

I am not a good detail painter. All my paint brushes have the shakes so I'm using a method I call "FLOW ON - WIPE OFF EXCESS". This works well if the body has nice crisp deep detail features like the Lancer Super Comp McLaren I'm building now.

 

I use Testors flat black enamel with a bit of thinner added if it has thickened up over time. The paint has to be thin enough to flow but thick enough to have good coverage.

 

I quickly flow the paint into the body cavity with a cheap soft #2 brush. This leaves no lumpy brush marks in the paint. 

 

I don't worry about slopping the paint outside the edges of the cavity as a quick "finger wipe" along the cavity edge cleans it off and leave a nice straight edge.

 

If the "finger wipe" also removes a bit of paint, say from the MIDDLE of a grill opening, again QUICKLY touch it up with one stroke of the paint brush. The idea is to do this quickly enough so the touched up paint blends in without brush strokes.

 

After the paint dries the edge can be further refined with a cotton swab dipped in thinner if necessary.

 

Here's an example:

 

 

For parts of the body without a deep depression to flow paint into I have to mask off the area to create straight edges.

 

Some areas I use a combination of both methods:

 

 

I'm sure talented painters will find this amusing but I can't paint a straight line with a brush so I had to come up with a method that works for me.

[Bill from NH]

Rick, you might be doing it the original Lancer way. Their flat black areas had the "flow look" without brush marks too.

[Alchemist]

Excellent method!

 

Thanks for sharing Rick.

 

Ernie

[Slot Car Rod]

Thanks Rick.  Great painting tips.

 

Please share again what type of masking tape you use.

[dc-65x]

3M 5480 Gray PTFE Skived Film Tape Roll - 0.5 in. x 15 ft.

 

3M Teflon tape:
 

 
This stuff is very thin, flexible and very very expensive.
 
But if burnished down properly won't let paint bleed through and leaves a very crisp line. You can also easily see through it to trim out windows. It can be cut into narrow strips and bends around corners well as shown below:
 

 

 

 
Painting bodies is difficult for me and I will take advantage of anything I can if it helps me. This tape definitely helps "mask" (pun intended) my lack of painting skill.       I don't paint a large number of bodies so I splurge on my masking tape.
 
If "normal" masking tapes work for you that's great. But if you are having trouble with them you should splurge on a small roll of this stuff and give it a try.

[Slot Car Rod]

Thanks Rick.  Ordered a roll today.

[dc-65x]

The McLaren wheels are a 4-spoke style:

 

 

I'm using a Cox Lotus 40 wheel as a donor for my wheel inserts. The spoke shape is a bit different but at least there are 4 of them. Below the wheel on the right has been micro bead blasted to remove the oxidation without changing the surface finish to a "sand blasted" look like normal bead blasting:

 

 

On the left are the stock wheels and on the right are the front and back of the finished wheel inserts:

 

 

The finished wheels. The inserts were spray painted with Tamiya Light Gunmetal. Then Testors flat black brushed on and the spokes exposed with a "finger wipe":

 

 

The finished roller ready for the body: