64 replies to this topic

[Mad Mark]

Was also able to get correct front wheels off said hulk so now have proper front wheels for olds.

Probably would be easier just buying a car thats all original instead of piecing them together but wheres the fun in that?

[Martin]

Easier, yes, but anybody can buy a finished car. You are restoring, fixing and putting a car back to original or making an new Thingie the old way it would have been done in the 60s.

Much more rewarding IMO.

Keep up the good work.

 

Not sure why you cannot get the pinion off. Is your puller groove too small? The 36d has a bigger shaft.

You can always crush the pinion off with side cutters.

[Mad Mark]

Easier, yes, but anybody can buy a finished car. You are restoring, fixing and putting a car back to original or making an new Thingie the old way it would have been done in the 60s.
Much more rewarding IMO.
Keep up the good work.
 
Not sure why you cannot get the pinion off. Is your puller groove too small? The 36d has a bigger shaft.
You can always crush the pinion off with side cutters.

thanks Martin it’s pretty rewarding fixing up wrecks and making them somewhat presentable. and it’s a big pinion pressed on to where there is barely any gap to get a puller in. had same problem before and had to dremel the pinion narrower. biggest thing that bugs me is motors is EBD going wrong way in a chassis meant for CSD.

[Mad Mark]

Just got this heap and went to work with the heat gun straight away. Extra extra beater body. Didnt come out too bad, unfortunately melted the top passenger front fender a little but still better than ending up in the trash I guess. Figure from 10 away it will look like a manta ray going around the track haha. Im sure I could get it better if I spent more than ten minutes on it too.

[Mad Mark]

Can probably figure out what this will be from the wheels. gave up trying to win a roller on the bay so going to piece one together per usual.

[Mad Mark]

Bought this in person from a guy who had quite the stash of mint never ran cars and Cucs. never seen a stash like that in person was pretty cool.

[Mad Mark]

Viper project already boxed and on the back burner. The included bolt on can side motor mount is for a 16d so I either need to fab one out or brass or come across one in a lot(not paying $15 for one) or I can have a roller as display and leave motor out hehe.

[Martin]

Mark, can you describe or find a pic of the "bolt on the can side" I have lots of parts.

 

P.S. I never use a heat gun to straighten bodies. Too risky. A pan of near boiling water has always worked for me. Dipping the effected area in until soft, then holding in the desired position while running under cold water to fix the position.

[Jairus]

Mark, can you describe or find a pic of the "bolt on the can side" I have lots of parts.

 

P.S. I never use a heat gun to straighten bodies. Too risky. A pan of near boiling water has always worked for me. Dipping the effected area in until soft, then holding in the desired position while running under cold water to fix the position.

I have used a heat gun many times to great effect.
You can also use heated tools to make clearance divots for axles and guide screws.

[Martin]

I find there is always more that one method to get the job done. So for sure experiment on old bodies. Find whats best for you.

I choose the hot water method after I found a (my) heat gun to be a bit indiscriminate. I must have the wrong tool and /or lack the skill.

Does a good job stripping paint on my house though.

 

I like the hot spoon to make wheel arch flares and guide post bumps etc., but I am too chicken to try it on an original rare body.

Love to see the tools you use as a starting point to learn your methods.

[Mad Mark]

Mark, can you describe or find a pic of the "bolt on the can side" I have lots of parts.
 
P.S. I never use a heat gun to straighten bodies. Too risky. A pan of near boiling water has always worked for me. Dipping the effected area in until soft, then holding in the desired position while running under cold water to fix the position.

i already bought a whole other car to build cause its going to bug me now. the part I need is the bushing side bolt on motor bracket like on the later manta rays but for inline chassis. They are on eBay but you can spend a little more and get a whole car.

also heat gun is tricky it’s a pretty large spread of heat for such a small object. I’ve almost thought of trying a little cigar torch also. i need to try the boiling water for sure.

[Pablo]

You said "bug" LOL

[Mad Mark]

Should make a good runner. too bad those almost perfect front wheels have out of round tires.

[Mad Mark]

Should be set for next few rainy days coming up!

[Mad Mark]

Finished cobbling these together. viper is in display trim and running trim with in dee co rears (that weigh like half a pound each!)and dynamic fronts.

[Mad Mark]

pretty much whole other viper. had to ghetto rig up a guide post on the classic guide. sadly it snapped in shipping and figured its already ruined might aswell try to make it work. seems pretty solid besides being ghetto. The guide retainer will hide it.

[Martin]

Talking of guides, where was that question you posted. I.D.ing a guide. Found it.

 I found another AMT car with that same guide.

 

Good fix BTW.

[Mad Mark]

Talking of guides, where was that question you posted. I.D.ing a guide. Found it.
 I found another AMT car with that same guide.
 
Good fix BTW.

thanks! I figure if I buy a NOS guide it’s about a third the price of a whole eBay parts car so I try to penny punch where I can haha. i ended up using that guide on my banshee repop. Figured it was close enough.

[Mad Mark]

this might be enough classic industries cars for the moment

[Mad Mark]

Good runner beater viper. opted out of using ghetto rigged classic guide and put it on a display car. almost original configuration. might try to remove the gold plating on the front wheels at some point but dont want to ruin the tires.


thinking Ill do a non oem paint job on this one.

[Mad Mark]

so the viper is a ok runner nothing special. the banshee needs some tuning. i think the guide is too tight in the piano wire drop arm making the car chatter around turns.

this garvic kit chassis was surprising. i thought it would be horrible but it gets around the track pretty dang good!

And yes I made those 1/16 body clips. the factory chassis holes are so large the standard flat head body screws wont work.

[Carter]

Mark did you paint that body it looks good


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[Mad Mark]

Mark did you paint that body it looks good


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Yes I did thanks! Still struggling a little with my paint but getting there.

[Bill from NH]

Your paint looks good but black fogging can be difficult to do & still look good. It was the nom in the '70s & '80s. I like using different shades of the same color too. Everyone has their niche.

[mike1972chev]

Good runner beater viper. opted out of using ghetto rigged classic guide and put it on a display car. almost original configuration. might try to remove the gold plating on the front wheels at some point but dont want to ruin the tires.
3E37F9A1-4426-4795-A62B-71346F2D6B79.jpeg
4481B147-8205-4629-B323-FDFCC5703B63.jpeg
thinking Ill do a non oem paint job on this one.

 I LOVE my gold wheels mark..