45 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

Parts gathering/planning is roughly complete. I have several mounting bracket choices, including a couple of Don Weaver customs

 

 

-Plumbered tilting brass pan anglewinder right hand endbell drive chassis

-16D Pablo built and blueprinted motor, ProSlot S16C arm .540 OD 42 deg in a .580 hole, modern mags, Mabuchi can, SKF vintage BB in a Champion EB with plate, mounting holes tapped 2-56. This motor has way too much power for a jaildoor. It's been sitting in a baggie waiting for a proper home a long time - this is it

-3/32 axles with dc-65x wheels both ends.

-Gears 64P, 8T Sonic/42T Faas

-Chassis width 3 1/8

-Rears 13/16, fronts 3/4

[olescratch]

  Builds like this are why I'm glad to see you posting again on this site.  Nothing better than a step by step to show how it's done!  I'll be following this one closely, I owend a 68' GTO way back when.

[bbr]

1st gen and early 2nd gen were the best

 

[Pablo]

Thanks for the photo, Mike  

[dc-65x]

Hi Pablo,

 

Looks like a great project. I'm looking forward to following along....thanks!

[Pablo]

Pro-era 1 1/4" wide .032 drop arm, never used. It cleaned up nicely and I tweaked the tilt up very slightly.

 

Rear axle tube finished and BB's installed with silver solder. Not for strength, but to prevent melting when I start flinging 60/40 and piano wires in close proximity  

 

Motor bracket attached temporarily. My plan is to make a practice motor box from 1/16 rod - much easier to work with as a "template" for the real one - .055 Swiss wire

 

[Pablo]

Making the "practice" motor box, it became clear the motor needs to be set as far right as possible.

It's a tricky tap dance between wheel clearances, weight bias, motor angle and gear mesh.

 

So I trimmed the pinion and shaft (very carefully). Scary, but it worked

 

[dc-65x]

Nice pinion shortening job.  

 

I find getting a motor box Korrectly setup is a real pain Pablo. Whenever I build one I

am reminded how much easier it is to build a good old Lee Gilbert style half rail chassis.

 

Unfortunately my favorite period of angle winder cars are mostly motor box style chassis.  

[Bill from NH]

Steve Okeefe still has a "how-to" article on here making the Emott style motor box.

[Pablo]

Since this isn't a copy of any particular car, I was free to do it however I liked. Box is .055 wire braced with some .039. More bracing to follow .....

 

[Slot Car Rod]

Nice start to the motor box.  I like the idea of using two pieces plus an 'L'" brace.

[Pablo]

Thanks Rodney, but I changed my mind - I can't use a brass strip laying flat across the rods with the .039 wires like that. So I removed them.

I love soldering - change my mind or make a mistake, fix it no problem

 

 

Painting? Botch it, and you are done   

[Pablo]

Motor box transition to rails is unconventional - this car isn't a clone, just me having fun using my gut feelings. A 1/4 wide .025 brass strip will cover and strengthen.

Since the actual BB's are already installed, a bubble bath with Dawn and baking soda is mandatory between each step 

 

 

Some Lee Gilbert (R.I.P.) influence. Maybe somewhat overbuilt, but it is a big stock car after all ........

 

[Pablo]

Motor box to rails cross connect brass sheet is 15 thou, not 25 - no sense adding heft to something that's already stout enough.

Front axle tube secured, dummy front rail cross connector discarded. All wires are Swiss plated - strong stuff and saves lots of time

 

[Pablo]

Drop arm setup for tilting plumber rails. This time I did it just like dc-65x - .063 under, then 3/32 pieces buttressed with .047 piece up top 

 

 

Motor and axle supports done. Feels good to get that precious Faas spur out of there and scrubbed

 

 

Overbuilt? yes. The S16C arm is .540 OD, it's going to push a big stock car dangerously fast. You'd have to break several joints back there for a failure

 

 

[Pablo]

Front axle tube uprights wire wrapped and drop arm installed. Lots of inspiration here, from Lee Gilbert, dc-65, Jairus, Okeefe, and all my Slotblog vintage heroes. 

Hinge wires .055 for a hair of extra droop and wiggle. Upstop crosspiece has an extra piece placed about .023 lower to compensate for the .032/.055 disparity.

 

[Martin]

I am enjoying your build, looking "super sano"  

[Jairus]

Very nice work P! 

[Pablo]

Thank you, gentlemen 

Design influence now turns to Mike Katz, in a world where simple rectangular pans always work well on stock cars. 1/2 x .032 trussed up for pin tube surgery on the RGeo jig

 

 

 

Solder is Koford silver. It won't melt when I attach hinge wires in close proximity with 60/40. Dries super fast and it's easy to see when it's done

 

[Courtney S]

This is going to be one hot GTO!

[Jairus]

Can we see the body Paul?  Pleeezzze?

[Pablo]

[Bill from NH]

As I recall, JK released this GTO & a Dodge Charger about 15 yrs. ago. I bought a GTO because the Charger
looked bloated. My brother had a red '72 GTO which I drove several times.

[Jairus]

So... what you gonna paint on it?

[Pablo]

The car has not been earmarked for a potential buyer yet so the paint can be anything I want.

The moment I saw Mike Low's post #3, my mind was made up - black

 

 

Jairus, do you want to do it for me? That would be great     

 

Chassis is coming along nicely. Drop arm wire is .025 - I started the solder joint a little at a time going forward until I got the amount of pressure I wanted.

When I lift the front axle, the tongue droops a little, not much. A little "decoupling" is all it needs