107 replies to this topic

[dc-65x]

That's close to the timeframe for this build Bill.....cool.

 

Thanks Mark. Here it is all assembled:

 

 

 

Yes it's all assembled but it needs a finishing touch:

 

 

 

[olescratch]

  Any info on where to obtain some of those "finishing touches" would be appreciated!   That's one nice motor!

[Bill Breck]

  Any info on where to obtain some of those "finishing touches" would be appreciated!   That's one nice motor!

 

They're on eBay. 

 

 

https://www.ebay.com...PoAAOSwzA9gR9ym

 

https://www.ebay.com...DcAAOSwKH5hDslt

[dc-65x]

The eBay vendor has many different vintage rewound motor company stickers. You can check out his eBay store.

 

I think the stickers are the finishing touch for a tribute to John Cukras and a truly iconic vintage slot car motor:

 

 

BUT...........OOPS!.............what's wrong with this picture: 

 

 

       

 

 

[ajd350]

cw?.......D'OH!

[dc-65x]

That's it Al:    

 

[dc-65x]

With the "Cukras stickers" installed correctly the motor is finished. It's time to put the whole enchilada together.

 

Weldun front wheels and Riggen rears:

 

 

I really like using my little hobby lathe with an Xacto knife attached to trim donuts to very close to finish size:

 

 

Koford rear axle, drill blank front axle, Boca Bearings non-shielded ball bearings, Sonic steel 7T pinion and Cox 34T spur gear:

 

 

Often used by Bob Emott Marklin train wire, Phase III braid and Cox guide:

 

 

Assembly time.........

 

 

[Jairus]

You always bring me the best slot car porn!

[dc-65x]

The roller is all together in one lump:

 

 

 

In this end bell drive chassis the Cukras sticker on the motor is upside down if it's in front. Of course the motor can be flipped over with the Cukras sticker in the rear and right side up. I don't like either scenario but as they say, "it is what it is":

 

 

At least with the body on you turn the car over the sticker is oriented correctly to read it:

 

 

Next up is finishing and installing the wheel inserts and mounting the body.........

 

 

[Steve Okeefe]

Rick,

 

That's got be the best looking "Phase III Plumber Chassis Kit" ever.

 

Seriously shiny too! 

[dc-65x]

Thanks Steve. When I saw the kit I wondered what a Phase III chassis would look like underneath all the solder the factory chassis are covered with.

[Mad Mark]

Beautiful work as usual.

[dc-65x]

Thanks Mark. Here's what I used to make my wheel inserts:

 

 

Here are a couple of versions of Mirage wheels I found pictures of. The Cox Ford GT wheels are not an exact match for either Mirage wheel but at least they are six spoke and period correct:

 

 

 

The knockoffs are possibly Dynamic. I machined about .050" off their backside to make them not stick out so far:

 

 

 

I think they look pretty cool on the car:

 

 

This Lancer Mirage Super Comp body loves this chassis and fits perfectly:

 

 

I love the way this car "sits".     The front end is sitting up a bit higher in this picture because the tech block isn't recessed for the guide's braid:

 

 

I can't wait to get it in paint. Since this body is "unobtainium" I going to really try to NOT screw it up...........wish me luck!    

[Brian Czeiner]

I think I'm in love..........   What an amazing work of art! As beautiful as that is, I would be tempted to leave the body clear.  At least for a little while.

[Larry Horner]

Those wheels are amazing!

[Martin]

"........wish me luck!     "

 

I am sure you got this, but good luck anyway. Weather is good for painting ?

Did you decide on a color?

Look forward to your pick.

[dc-65x]

Thank you guys. I'm working on getting an interior to fit and then I can get the body in paint. The body is so darn low!     

[olescratch]

 

They're on eBay. 

 

cukras.jpg

 

https://www.ebay.com...PoAAOSwzA9gR9ym

 

https://www.ebay.com...DcAAOSwKH5hDslt

  Received a couple different stickers from this vendor and was very happy with them.  Thanks for the lead.

[Bill Breck]

  Received a couple different stickers from this vendor and was very happy with them.  Thanks for the lead.

[dc-65x]

I failed to get a more elaborate interior to fit, the body is SO low.        I finally settled on the basic Lancer piece:

 

 

I extended the interior to cover the engine compartment, the carburetor cover is from an Aurora Ford GT model kit, a coupe of aluminum tube exhaust pipes and a simple instrument binnacle.

 

The roofline is so low I had to apply my patented "Inverse Gurney Bubble" treatment to the drivers head.  

 

Time to paint the details on the inside of the body.......

[Brian Czeiner]

Were you planning on making some sort of headlight bucket or does the body come with it already?

[dc-65x]

I don't recall Lancer including headlight buckets with any of their bodies Brian. I'm not adding any on my Mirage. I had my hands full trying to figure out how I, and I stress the word "I", could add a stripe over the deep NACA duct detail in the roof for that  "must have"  Gulf livery:

 

 

 

I realize the masking could be done on each side of the duct to create the stripe first but I, again I stress the word "I", have not had good luck with that technique.

 

Finally figured out something that "I" could do that would allow me to easily mask for the stripe.............just cut the bottom of the darn duct off:

 

 

With the strip painted a little piece of orange painted plastic replaces the bottom of the now shallow duct:

 

 

Yes the duct is shallow but so is the ducting for the radiator up front. After all, this is a "low and wide handling body"..........

 

 

and it doesn't have the deep ducting like the scale version:

 

 

Trying to make the stripe come out nicely, I went through the extra effort of airbrushing Testor's enamel instead of using their rattle cans which lay down heavier coats of paint:

 

 

I still screwed it up.     The blue paint bled under the tape stripe behind the rear window.       So much for that part of the stripe. I pulled the tape off and continued with the blue:

 

 

So this is how my super rare Lancer Mirage looks with my attempt to do that "must have" Gulf livery:

 

 

I think it will look OK with the decals and super cool wheel inserts.      But I was hoping for more than OK for this very cool and rare body. There's no going to the raceway and simply buying another one.

 

I can't help but think how nice it could have turned out if I would have done what I was thinking I should do, a "slot car fantasy livery" that was within my personal capabilities. That is a mistake I won't make again.

[Bill from NH]

I might have used a liquid masking for the roof stripe & duct. Your process produced a more realistic looking duct.

[Brian Czeiner]

You can try a thin black outline of the stripe on the outside. This can be done in paint or vinyl. It may cover or at least distract from any bleed. I can send you some black sheet if you want it. PM me an address

 

If the bleed is in the clear glass, try a toothpick dipped in thinner and gently scratch away the bleed.

[dc-65x]

Hi Brian,

 

The only problem with paint bleeding through my masking was with the stripe behind the rear window. That was a mess and I just removed the masking and painted it all blue as I mentioned previously.

 

In hindsight I know what I did wrong to cause the failure of the rear stripe masking but that's little comfort. That body is so cool and so rare, experimenting with painting and detailing techniques on it was irresponsible.  

 

A black outline of the orange stripe is part of the Gulf livery and isn't needed for any bleed. Thank you for the offer of some "black sheet" but I went with using something I'm comfortable with, decals from a Fred Cady Ford GT sheet:

 

 

After the decals had time to dry I coated over them with Pledge acrylic floor finish to help protect them: