107 replies to this topic

[dc-65x]

Mike Morrissey (no slouch himself!) was paying attention to Emott. Here is his "New Two-Rail Chassis" article in the same March issue as the first Phase III plumber chassis ad I referenced when I started this build:

 

 

 

No time machine needed.

 

"Wink wink, nod nod say no more....."  

[Samiam]

Rick, you may see something here for inspiration

 

https://www.ebay.com...ZcAAOSwghpkld~K

 

OR NOT !!

[Bill from NH]

Sam, this is a modified Phaze III chassis, not a "Team Nutley" anything, worth far less the price requested. You already knew that. 

[dc-65x]

The owner of that Phase III chassis put on a Team Nutley drop arm and mounted his plumber to it.

[dc-65x]

My chassis is finished and here is a comparison with a factory build. 

 

 

Removing one main rail per side and mounting the plumber on the drop arm really changes its appearance. 

 

 

 

My outside main rails are bent up to attach to the axle tube and I ditched the factory U- brace:

 

 

 

Plumber on the arm setup:

 

 

All this is very "Phase III":

 

 

Time to choose a 16D CCW motor for this puppy:

 

 

[Bill from NH]

Got any of the pink Mura B-can group15s? These were the Modelville Hobby motor of choice in the '70s, even better than the same arm in a Mura "Green" C-can.

[dc-65x]

Interesting suggestion Bill.

 

I built the chassis for an early 1969 16D end bell drive CCW wind motor. I'm sure I could cut the motor bracket up to low mount a B-motor but I want to go 16D.

[Brian Czeiner]

When you guys finish a build like this, do you clear coat the chassis to keep it looking prisitne or do you let nature take it's course?

[dc-65x]

Brian, when I was an apprentice machinist going through the inspection shop I was chastised for have what the Journeymen called "piss fingers".         All the polished gages I touched would soon start to rust.

 

So for my polished chassis I don't clear coat but I do wipe off my finger prints and then, as you said, "let nature take its course".  

[old & gray]

Brian, when I was an apprentice machinist going through the inspection shop I was chastised for have what the Journeymen called "piss fingers".         All the polished gages I touched would soon start to rust.

 

 

Being a "Ruster" was a way to cut your career short when I worked in a machine shop. We had one guy who would rust in the morning but not in the afternoon. The problem was solved when he stopped drinking his 8 ounce orange juice first thing in the morning. 

[Bill from NH]

When I was racing Phaze III chassis in the '70s I polished my chassis most every week, when I had the car apart. During a 500 lap endurance race, my paint scheme tied for concours. So, they flipped the two cars over & I won because my chassis was polished & the other one wasn't.  I gave that chassis to Brian McPherson a few years ago for his collection.

[Brian Czeiner]

So nobody clear coats? Has anyone tried? Does it hurt the performance? Would clear be different from a chassis skin? Sorry, I didn't mean to get off topic or hijakc a thread. Just a simple answer will be good.

[Larry Horner]

Lovely chassis Rick!  Just out of curiosity, what is the final weight?

[Bill from NH]

So nobody clear coats? Has anyone tried? Does it hurt the performance? Would clear be different from a chassis skin? 

 

Brian, some of the 1/32 guys on HRW paint their brass chassis. Those I've seen were a solid color. I don't see why clears & other types of paint couldn't be used. There is at least one YouTube video on painting a brass chassis, perhaps others too.

[dc-65x]

Brian, I only know that I personally don't clear coat my chassis. When I run them there is oil, tire goo and lighter fluid the clear coat would have to hold up to. There is also the possibility of the chassis articulation being affected.

 

I think the best thing for you to do is to start a new thread on this subject perhaps in the Scratchbuilding forum.  We needn't elaborate on it here. Slotblog could certainly use more content.

 

I think the chassis looks slick too Larry. I'm amazed at how much better it looks IMHO.

 

Here's the chassis weight in Old Geezer ounces.........

 

 

............and Hipster grams:

 

[Martin]

   

[dc-65x]

I've finally decided on a motor for this project:

 

 

Well, it's not exactly this ultra cool new old stock (NOS) motor I pictured.     

 

I'm building up my own tribute Cukras motor from NOS parts with the exception of

the stripped can and armature both of which will be restored:

 

 

This is a late, if not the last, version of the Team Cukras motor. I'm using PdL's description of the evolution of this motor from the online member content of his book. This was especially helpful as it pertains to the armature I chose:

 

 

This Mura armature uses the familiar balancing holes and .007" laminations with the fiber endplates, not the later green powder coating. The wires are welded to the comm, tied and epoxied with the typical "air bubbles" from the vacuum process:

 

 

The Team Cukras motors had a selection of single winds ( 24S, 25S and 26S) and a double 28. The wire on this arm might be a 26S, it doesn't look to beefy but might be just the ticket for an amateur's Phase III chassis kit build:

 

 

The end bell will get upgraded with stainless steel machine screws:

 

 

Shunted brushes and the brush springs are NOS Team Cukras medium tension:

 

 

Mura .015" Semi-Can and Versitec magnets:

 

 

The Mura A-can is restored and I'll be using the earlier long version of bearing and

not the "improved" short version pictured:

 

 

Time to do my best to put together a fitting tribute to a true icon of vintage slot racing, the Team Cukras motor.

[dc-65x]

I want to share how I drill the end bell mounting holes now. It used to be a real pain to see where to get the drill bit aligned especially with a little center punch mark. 

 

Rodney and I talked about standing at a workbench to build because sitting for hours on end lead to back pain. I found this compact worksurface that I can work at seated or raise it up to use while standing.

 

 

It also works great while seated to raise up the little miniature drill press to eye level. This makes aligning the drill bit quick, easy and accurate to drill the mounting holes:

 

 

Assembled end bell with a nice tight new bearing and drilled and tapped for machine screws:

 

 

The only other thing I did was carefully align the hex brush holders and solder them to the hoods:

 

[Bill from NH]

Does it take two settings of your angle-setting fixture in order to drill all four holes? Is there an angle-setting gauge on the fixture that doesn't show in the photo?

[dc-65x]

Hi Bill,
 
You can drill all four holes by just flipping the motor around front to back.
 
I received some PM's about the little drill press and adjustable angle gauge. Below is a quote from my pinned thread "Toys for retirement":
 

A NEW TOY FOR RETIREMENT!
 
I found an adjustable angle block goodie on eBay. There are many sellers and the prices and shipping cost vary widely. Here's the picture from one seller's auction:
 
 

 
Here's my gizmo in the flesh:
 

 
OK, so now I can hold the can and end bell at the Korrect angle but I'll need to go out into the garage and use my milling machine to drill the holes..........
 
But I don't want to go out there. It's too hot, it's too cold, I don't want to put on shoes..........wha wha wha. What to do? A NEW TOY FOR RETIREMENT!
 
How about a super small and light drill press for about $80 with turn of a knob variable speed? Ebay to the rescue. Here's the sellers picture from his auction:
 

 
There must be a dozen different sellers selling this "mini drill press". Prices are all over the map but I like this green one so I paid to much for it
 
Here's my baby with a brewski next to it for scale:
 

[Larry Horner]

I want one!  (the drill press ... I'm a Negro Modelo guy)

[Mark Onofri]

Oooooooooh, now I get it. It's not a can, it's the can that goes in the can. I've seen them in various thickness and, presumed that it was a b- can milled thinner . Just when I thought I didn't want to buy more stuff.....
PS: have you seen the prices on Phase lll chassis?

[dc-65x]

I like Negro Modelo too Larry, especially with my beloved chile verde burritos.  

 

Ah the Mura semi-can in a can setup. By todays standards it's not ideal Mark. But it was part of Mura's evolution to the wonderful Bob Green/C-can motor that came out a little later.

 

Here I have the Versitec magnets stuffed into the semi-can, its retaining tabs pressed tight against the magnets and the Certus top and bottom magnet centering spacers installed. After this is stuffed into the can the magnet springs get installed:

 

 

The painted can waiting to get stuffed with magnets:

 

 

Can and magnets ready to go:

 

 

I'm not sure if brush spring insulation was used in the first quarter on 1969 but I'm installing this thin, clear Teflon tube on mine. The plastic end bell spring posts just love to melt. My hope is to keep the brush springs insulated from electrical current and thus heat. 

 

 

The Team Cukras medium tension brush springs with my "invisible" insulation installed:

 

 

With the motor installed in the car this insulation is hard to spot.........

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Mad Mark]

So sano

[Bill from NH]

The first spring insulation I saw in the summer of '69 was small clear tubing in the Modelvile display case.  I don't recall who packaged it. maybe Certus.