87 replies to this topic

[Bill from NH]

Are your photos in post #74 & #75 the same body? I've seen liquid mask used for more than just windows when painting clear RC & slot car bodies, but I don't recall seeing it used on hard plastic bodies. If you try it, use several coats. Single coats of liquid mask can be difficult to remove. If you mask over a painted surface, be sure that surface is dry.

[Mark Onofri]

Billnh, for some reason it just says
"Images attached"
Yes, I laid down a couple of heavy coats.
In this picture, you'll notice the dots from the airbrush spitting. I've found out why.
1) bent needle
2) slightly dirty nozzle
Caused more by a bent needle than anything.
This is where I stop for a minute. It's only a few light coats. I'll wet sand it later and apply the final coat(s)

Attached Images

• 

[Mark Onofri]

Billnh, now I have the pictures but, I don't know what number is what. I believe we've been through this before and, I'm still not adept at this internet ting.
If you are referring to the red body w/ yellow stripe & the primed one, yes, same car.
After years of not painting on the outside of the body, I've been spoiled from painting on the inside of the body!

[Mark Onofri]

I've been using fastmask since 83-5?. I have never had it come off so easy as this time.
A little orange peel, no match for the rubbing compound. Even the lumps are eradicated by it. Hopefully 😑

Attached Images

• 
• 
• 
• 

[Bill from NH]

There are YouTube videos on how to straighten a bent needle. I've never had to do it, so I don't know how much work it is or how effective it is. How did you bend the needle? While cleaning the airbrush or did you drop it? Or, are you saying you might have a bent needle or a dirty airbrush? If so, cleaning the brush will be less work. You're using a .3mm needle & Testor enamel? I would expect that combination to lay down both smooth & shiny. What did you use for a thinner & did you add something else to the paint? You may be having an incompatibility issue between different brands of products used.

 

Yes, the two car photos you describe are the ones I wondered if they were of the same body.

 

If you airbrush paint on a sheet of white paper, do you also see paint spatters?

[Mark Onofri]

I'm overwhelmed your questions🤯.
1) yes, I dropped it without the protector on it because......
2) yes, I dropped that too
3) not a clue as to what size tips & nozzles it came with. They have moon writing on them for the size and, no Rosetta stone for translation.(a little green Rosettie to. Still stuck on Zappa)
4) I used a automotive quality reducer and hardener.
What I've found from being a little more conscious of what I'm doing is:
1) if the paint is too thick, it spits because
2) you have to turn the pressure up
3) if the pressure is too high,it causes the equivalent to hydro static jump or,in layman's terms,(shoodoobie) splatter.
4) I forgot what four was
5) I know that I didn't clean the air brush well enough.
Ok, I resorted to using the$19.99 Passhae for the blue.
After (almost) getting used to the gravity feed dual action brush, I've gained more (a little) respect for it. It offers a LOT more control.
Did I miss anything?
Billnh, I really appreciate your input! Keep it coming and, don't worry about what you (or anyone) has to say. I'm far from thin skinned and look at it as constructive criticism.

[Bill from NH]

#4 might have been, were you spraying Testor paint or something else?

 

I never used a hardener or some automotive reducer in all the years I sprayed lacquer. If your reducer is a lacquer thinner, perhaps it's too hot to use with the particular paint you used. If it's not lacquer thinner, what is it? 

 

If you don't clean your airbrush good, you'll get all sorts of clogs.

 

If you can get your paint problems behind ya, a single action airbrush will give you fewer problems that a double action brush. First, it has fewer parts & is easier to clean. The nozzle & needle are bigger, so it almost never will clog. I did good work with just a single action Binks for 35 years. And I still have it in reserve, Some people will tell you single action brushes are junk & you ought not get one. That is not true at all. I've seen several model car builders on YouTube that only use the $20 plastic Paasche airbrush. I don't know if those are still available or not.

 

In a nutshell, I have no idea if your problems are caused by your paint mixture, an unclean airbrush, or maybe both.

[Dave Crevie]

#4 might have been, were you spraying Testor paint or something else?

 

I never used a hardener or some automotive reducer in all the years I sprayed lacquer. If your reducer is a lacquer thinner, perhaps it's too hot to use with the particular paint you used. If it's not lacquer thinner, what is it? 

 

 

 

 

Lacquer thinner is sold in three different "speeds", fast dry, medium dry and slow dry. When I paint a car, I use fast dry mostly for primer. For shooting custom colors, I use mostly slow dry so the paint can "flatten" out. I'll use fast dry when the humidity is high to prevent blushing, and also when shooting Metalflake or bright metallics to keep the metal particles from "sagging". In any event, make sure you mix the paint well. This video is the best I found on thinners, and is even hobby oriented. It is a bit long.

 

https://youtu.be/Pwg...2ACQm7s1UGGIlEW

[Mark Onofri]

Yes Billnh, good old $3.99 Testors.Thanks to the horse tooth governor, we can't get laqour in NY! It's so bad that you have to be a contractor to buy enamel or epoxy except in quarts.. It gets worse, ALL paint has a surcharge on it. So,a quart of Rust-Oleum is>=$17.00.
Not sure how much it is in the free world.
A big drift here but,her next plan is to prohibit ALL gas appliances including furnaces, boilers , rangers and, water heaters. Hide your propane BBQs! Unless you use charcoal .
Yes, yes I feel better now.

[Mark Onofri]

Now that I've got past that,
Yes, the reasons I listed are 90% of the cause. I am the other %10 . I shot another car with the voluminous quantity of yellow I had left over from the stripe. Very, very smooth and shiny. Ironically, very, very yellow. I was going to save it for the next instalment.

[Mark Onofri]

It's not too late for this one.

Attached Images

• 
• 

[Mark Onofri]

Ok, I've convinced the voices that it's not a good idea to change direction now.
But, the progress is at a standstill until I find the needle retainer.
Yes Billnh, I dropped that too. Seems like it (Passhae raptor) produces a better finish

[Bill from NH]

Get yourself a good-size picture frame & replace the glass with something like cork or cardboard, Now use your "tray" to disassemble. clean, & assemble things like motors, airbrushes, & other slot car items over this "tray". When you happen to drop something or a part it stays in front of you on your modified picture frame. I got this tip from my friend Dave Perkins who builds models cars with many photo-etched parts. He said he doesn't use it when he's working on his Harley.