67 replies to this topic

[Jairus]

Building another Gurney Eagle hardbody car. This time I thought I would try to replicate the rear suspension more closely to that of the original. Looks pretty good... wish I had a lathe, as I would have turned down the threaded axles some.

Shooting for more realism with this car! Let me know what you think...

[don.siegel]

It looks great Jairus! Would love to see you try a real working independent suspension one of these days....

Don

[Bob Campbell]

Building another Gurney Eagle hardbody car. This time I thought I would try to replicate the rear suspension more closely to that of the original. Looks pretty good... wish I had a lathe, as I would have turned down the threaded axles some.

Shooting for more realism with this car! Let me know what you think...

Hey Jairus,

If you send me the axle with a sketch of how you need it, I will do it and only charge shipping.

Let me know.

Bob C.

[Jairus]

Bob,
You are on!
This is what I am thinking of. Draw down the shaft to at least 3/32" Could be even more... but not less than 1/16th or the shaft will be too weak. (Look cool tho....

Taper the ends of the cut to increase the strength... otherwise it will be more inclined to break at a sharp edge. Need a 1/8th step behind the threads as a seat for the bearings.
Still want to do this? This is a standard Professor motor 3" axle by the way.
PM me your address please and I will send you a couple of axles and return postage. Thanks.


Mounted and ground down a couple of front tires to the right diameter. Next.... the drop arm.


Using a Dubro detail set for the stacks and pipes. (Thanks George!)

[Slotgeezer]

Man, this guy just never stops w/ the impressive builds.....

Great job, Jarius.... It really makes the car look sweet.....

Very nicely done...

Take care, & good building!


Jeff E.

[One_Track_Mind]

YEA JEFF!...I agree!

Also shows some neat tools?...I think?
What (where) is the brass T-handle wrench used in slots?
this looks homemade..really nice!

TYIA...

[Jairus]

Thanks Brian.

Finished up the drop arm.

[havlicek]

...another super build Jairus! It seems as though you're mass-producing these things lately!

-john

[Tex]

Good lookin' stuff, Jairus; can't wait to see the finished product!

[tonyp]

Brian I bet that 3T wrench is Jairus's wheel knock off wrench. I can not wait to see the finished product.

[Marty Stanley]

Jairus,

Okay, the quasi-pseudo independant rear suspension is looking quite nice.

Now, once you get the turned axle it will look much, much better.

What about the front suspension? You could do a lot to make that look so much better!

Trust me, I'm not dissing your work as it is tremendous work and I'm quite impressed with all that you do - either chassis or paintwork. Just trying to get you to put your work at a higher level!

Steve O-Keefe did a Honda F1 car back in 1965 with full front and rear independant suspension.

Here's a link to the article.

I'm liking what I see, very nice work as usualy Jairus. Keep it up!

[Howmet TX]

Absolutely beautiful as usual J. I wish I could keep up at any level. But I agree with the last post- keep the turned rear axle for the next one, and put on a piano wire front end to match!

[Howmet TX]

PS- Talking of wire front ends, I just remembered this thing I did several years ago in 1/32 ;

Independant FRONT suspension





The front wheels were supposed to 'trail steer', but I got the geometry a bit wrong. Worked fine on my home track, but tended to go into full lock at the first turn and stay there for the rest of the lap on the club track. Went into the pits for a rebuild and stayed there.... It may revive some unpleasant memories for Prof. Fate. Probably not something he would want to see again.
The suspension is a sort of torsion bar sliding pillar, but that would be to dignify a puppy's breakfast with technical bull...

[Jairus]

Hey!
I am not done with the front axle dudes. No worries... I have a few ideas!

[Marty Stanley]

Hey!
I am not done with the front axle dudes. No worries... I have a few ideas!

Jairus,

That's great news.

Perhaps we just hold you to a much higher set of expectations!

It's tough to be in front, ain't it?

[Jairus]

Marty, I don't think I can live up to it. But thanks anyway....

Hey guys... how about this for the front suspension?


Note:The motor is not square in the bracket. The reason is that the bracket was BADLY FORMED. I reamed out the axle holes to make it perpendicular with the centerline of the motor but the slight rotation to the right of the motor is of little concern to me once the body covers it.


Brake discs, lines and calipers have been on my mind since the last open wheeled car I built. So with the noted step in the Monogram front wheels .... I might give a thought to adding the extra details on this piece!


Now.. the only decision is: should I keep the 1/8th front axle or use axle stubs with a "thread locked" knock-off to retain the front wheel.
What do you think... and the answer is most likely already known to me.

[Howmet TX]

Ahh! Now I see why you ordered a 'couple' of turned down axles....

Teaches me not to get smart with the master builder!

Can't wait to see the body art.

[Lone Wolf]

Jarius, Wonderful stuff,too pretty to put a $10.00 plastic body on . Should be nickel plated and shown by itself. Well heres my two cents regarding the axle. !/8" (axle) in 1/24 scale works out to about three inches in 1/1. Correct me if I'm wrong on this. I dont think the axle on the real car was much smaller than three inches across (height). I guess you could go to a motor racing museum somewhere and measure one . Well,thats my opinion if anyone cares. Joe

[Tex]

Aces on that front suspension, Jairus! In retrospect, the wire I used on my '64 Cooper F1 was way large for suspension members but I wanted to use the material given to me. The size of the wire you are using looks "right". Stub axles? Heck yeah!

[Marty Stanley]

<snip>
Brake discs, lines and calipers have been on my mind since the last open wheeled car I built. So with the noted step in the Monogram front wheels .... I might give a thought to adding the extra details on this piece!

Now.. the only decision is: should I keep the 1/8th front axle or use axle stubs with a "thread locked" knock-off to retain the front wheel.

What do you think... and the answer is most likely already known to me.

Since you already knew the answer to that question, why ask?

So, will you use real braided stainless or just pseudo for the brake lines?

[Jairus]

Depends on the real car. I suspect that braded lines didn't filter down to the race track until late 60's since they were designed for NASA.
In 1964 or 65... most teams still used rubber tubing with clamped ends. Not sure what the Gurney Eagle had installed.
Not that I do not have 4 different sizes of braded lines for modeling.... I would rather it be KORRECT!

[Bob Campbell]

Correct me if I'm wrong on this. I dont think the axle on the real car was much smaller than three inches across (height). I guess you could go to a motor racing museum somewhere and measure one . Well,thats my opinion if anyone cares. Joe

Joe,

the axles (half shafts) on my off road buggy and on a Pike's Peak Hill Climb car that I work on both use Porsche 930 CV joints. These axles measure .845" The hill climb car dynos at 730 hp!

On a non independent straight axle, like on a RWD American car, yes the axle housing is at least 3".

The actual axle in the housing is much smaller.

Bob C.

[gascarnut]

The front wheels were supposed to 'trail steer', but I got the geometry a bit wrong. Worked fine on my home track, but tended to go into full lock at the first turn and stay there for the rest of the lap on the club track. Went into the pits for a rebuild and stayed there.... It may revive some unpleasant memories for Prof. Fate. Probably not something he would want to see again.

I remember that car:



As you say, the geometry was sub-optimal.....

[tonyp]

LOL...

[Joe Mig]

I remember that car:



As you say, the geometry was sub-optimal.....

It looks like that car could use a few degrees of negative camber.