How to set an inline gear mesh
#1
Posted 06 January 2010 - 12:27 PM
Note: This applies to the most commonly used Parma crown gears which are plastic. It won't hold true for metal gears.
1) Make sure the axle spins completely free in the bushings or bearings.
2) I make sure the fat end of the angled pinion is towards the motor and the tapered end is toward the crown gear. The teeth of the crown should touch the pinion just ahead of the rear of the pinion (the fat part) . Some like it in the front but I have seen more guys blow gears that way.
3) Set the crown against the pinion and lightly lock the set screw.
4) Turn the axle to see if there is some play all around. Almost all of the Parma crown gears are a bit out of perfect roundness. You need to find the high spot and that is the spot you want to make sure is set with the right amount of play.
5) The crown should just move slightly in this spot. If not, use your hand to turn the crown away from the pinion a bit and check again until you feel you have it right.
6) Lock the crown down and check the play all around again.
7) With a power pack hooked up, turn up the power until the motor starts to turn over slowly. Take a lighter and put the flame along the teeth and pinion for a short period of time. You can literally hear the the sound get quieter.
Do not overheat of course or you are going to melt the gear.
Works every time for me.
Also, I keep my gears separate. Gears used in hypoid position with Pro Slots or Falcons are kept separate from those aren't and separate from those used on TSRs, which turn the opposite way.
Added note: This is all meaningless if your chassis is weak in the back and you slam into someone/something or vice versa. Minimizing the chance of a bent bracket will always ensure the gear mesh stays good.
Joe "Noose" Neumeister
Sometimes known as a serial despoiler of the clear purity of virgin Lexan bodies. Lexan is my canvas!
Noose Custom Painting - Since 1967
Chairman - IRRA® Body Committee - Roving IRRA® Tech Dude - "EVIL BUCKS Painter"
"Team Evil Bucks" Racer - 2016 Caribbean Retro Overall Champion
The only thing bad about Retro is admitting that you remember doing it originally.
#2
Posted 06 January 2010 - 12:31 PM
That's a new one on me but a good one, thanks.
John Warren
Slot cars are my preferred reality
#3
Posted 06 January 2010 - 12:41 PM
Anthony 'Tonyp' Przybylowicz
5/28/50-12/20/21
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#4
Posted 06 January 2010 - 12:48 PM
Joe "Noose" Neumeister
Sometimes known as a serial despoiler of the clear purity of virgin Lexan bodies. Lexan is my canvas!
Noose Custom Painting - Since 1967
Chairman - IRRA® Body Committee - Roving IRRA® Tech Dude - "EVIL BUCKS Painter"
"Team Evil Bucks" Racer - 2016 Caribbean Retro Overall Champion
The only thing bad about Retro is admitting that you remember doing it originally.
#5
Posted 06 January 2010 - 12:55 PM
Anthony 'Tonyp' Przybylowicz
5/28/50-12/20/21
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#6
Posted 06 January 2010 - 01:05 PM
Added note: This is all meaningless if your chassis is weak in the back and you slam into someone/something or visa versa. Minimizing the chance of a bent bracket will always ensure the gear mesh stays good.
Joe "Noose" Neumeister
Sometimes known as a serial despoiler of the clear purity of virgin Lexan bodies. Lexan is my canvas!
Noose Custom Painting - Since 1967
Chairman - IRRA® Body Committee - Roving IRRA® Tech Dude - "EVIL BUCKS Painter"
"Team Evil Bucks" Racer - 2016 Caribbean Retro Overall Champion
The only thing bad about Retro is admitting that you remember doing it originally.
#7
Posted 06 January 2010 - 01:13 PM
#8
Posted 06 January 2010 - 01:23 PM
And of course it is all meaningless if you are using Sonics or some other form of metal gear...Added note: This is all meaningless if your chassis is weak in the back
#9
Posted 06 January 2010 - 01:42 PM
Joe "Noose" Neumeister
Sometimes known as a serial despoiler of the clear purity of virgin Lexan bodies. Lexan is my canvas!
Noose Custom Painting - Since 1967
Chairman - IRRA® Body Committee - Roving IRRA® Tech Dude - "EVIL BUCKS Painter"
"Team Evil Bucks" Racer - 2016 Caribbean Retro Overall Champion
The only thing bad about Retro is admitting that you remember doing it originally.
#10
Posted 07 January 2010 - 01:24 PM
Didn't I read on here somewhere a long time ago about using toothpaste to help smooth out the gear mesh? Not sure if this was for metal gears or plastic? Maybe somebody recalls more then me?
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Brian McPherson
REM Raceway
"We didn't realize we were making memories, we just knew we were having FUN!"
#11
Posted 07 January 2010 - 01:28 PM
And of course, you need to use a white toothpaste - clear gels won't do anything except make the car smell a bit better.
I have used Sonic aluminum drag gears in a hypoid inline bracket and they work fine after a little break-in with toothpaste or a very fine lapping paste, like a jeweler's paste. The deal with them though is to use the biggest crown gear you can for the ratio you want, so that the teeth do not have to be mutilated as much to adapt to the hypoid offset.
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#12
Posted 07 January 2010 - 01:32 PM
And of course, you need to use a white toothpaste - clear gels won't do anything except make the car smell a bit better.
Thank you,
Slots-4-Ever
Brian McPherson
REM Raceway
"We didn't realize we were making memories, we just knew we were having FUN!"
#13
Posted 07 January 2010 - 01:58 PM
Noose, since I don't smoke and I don't have a lighter, can I use a soldering iron?Take a lighter and put the flame along the teeth and pinion for a short period of time.
Jim "Butch" Dunaway
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#14
Posted 07 January 2010 - 02:14 PM
Joe "Noose" Neumeister
Sometimes known as a serial despoiler of the clear purity of virgin Lexan bodies. Lexan is my canvas!
Noose Custom Painting - Since 1967
Chairman - IRRA® Body Committee - Roving IRRA® Tech Dude - "EVIL BUCKS Painter"
"Team Evil Bucks" Racer - 2016 Caribbean Retro Overall Champion
The only thing bad about Retro is admitting that you remember doing it originally.
#15
Posted 07 January 2010 - 02:46 PM
Make sure you grab hold of the hot end of the iron real tight.Noose, since I don't smoke and I don't have a lighter, can I use a soldering iron?
#16
Posted 07 January 2010 - 02:53 PM
?/?/1950-3/8/22
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#17
Posted 07 January 2010 - 03:05 PM
Joe "Noose" Neumeister
Sometimes known as a serial despoiler of the clear purity of virgin Lexan bodies. Lexan is my canvas!
Noose Custom Painting - Since 1967
Chairman - IRRA® Body Committee - Roving IRRA® Tech Dude - "EVIL BUCKS Painter"
"Team Evil Bucks" Racer - 2016 Caribbean Retro Overall Champion
The only thing bad about Retro is admitting that you remember doing it originally.
#18
Posted 07 January 2010 - 03:30 PM
The speed of motor spin up might be up for some conjecture. It seems that a faster speed with a hot, soft plastic gear could be distorted during break in as opposed to the pinon properly forming an imprint or cast in the plastic.
Yep, I think a YouTube video would be a good idea,
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#19
Posted 07 January 2010 - 08:04 PM
Bob
#20
Posted 07 January 2010 - 08:36 PM
???-2/31/23
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#21
Posted 07 January 2010 - 09:23 PM
Sorry, I could not help myself.
Nesta
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#22
Posted 06 September 2010 - 05:55 PM
A lighter? That's a new one.
#23
Posted 06 September 2010 - 11:42 PM
Yesterday I put a new pinion and crown on my 1/32 car. At 5 volts it was showing .43 amps no load and after I did the BBQ on the crown it was showing .39 amps draw and the car was very smooooth... It is also a hypoid set.
Note you can also use the amp reading to get the best setup on your rear axle bushings!
Barney Poynor
12/26/51-1/31/22
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#24
Posted 06 September 2010 - 11:48 PM
Somebody had to ask.
#25
Posted 07 September 2010 - 11:02 AM
Hypoid (as we use it here) is the arm shaft centerline is below the axle shaft centerline to allow the motor to sit lower in the chassis and flat. You heat the crown to allow it to re-mold (so to speak) so it will have a nice mesh on the pinion.
NOTE: The plastic 1/32 cars have gears molded in hypoid already to allow for the misalignment.
This is a matter of personal feelings, as some do not use hypoid and some do. I do.
Barney Poynor
12/26/51-1/31/22
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