141 replies to this topic

[MSwiss]

You are correct.
Before I moved to Downers Grove, I lived a block
away from Vesecky's.

FWIW, Vesecky's (round) kolacky are totally scratchbulit
while Weber's uses some mass-production.

Thus, while Weber's are more concentric with less run-out,
IMHO, Vesecky's kolacky taste 1.478% better.

Now if you were going to make a rolling hoska,
using 4 of Weber's would probably be a better choice.

Slam, the sound of Mike leaving to go to Five Guys in Naperville
before the parking lot gets too crowded.

[Pablo]

Rob, I wasn't asking why the motor wasn't angled down more; I was asking why it's not flat at ground zero. Noose answered the question. I've built many jail doors, but only vintage, not for racing. So I haven't even read the rules.

I agree with Dennis, a little slop in the arm won't be the end of the world some say it is.
A piece of rod soldered up against the hinge eliminates some of the slop, also you might try smallparts.com for some hypodermic SS tube in slightly bigger OD for a tighter fit.
Is that legal ? I can send you a sample if you want.

Thanks for the cutter tip, Dennis...if my Elva car chatters, I'll get kinky

[Mopar Rob]

also you might try smallparts.com for some hypodermic SS tube in slightly bigger OD for a tighter fit. Is that legal ? I can send you a sample if you want.

I don't believe it's legal? only Piano wire, brass rod or brass tubing for the drop arm hinge from my understanding

[Pablo]

Given that, I would try Dennis' cutter trick on the arm hinge

[tonyp]

Pablo is correct and it has to be 3/32 tubing. You can use either brass rod, tubing or piano wire for the hinge pin.

[Hworth08]

The irascible knowalot who's mentoring me says that these brass-tube axle carriers have a half-life of one race, then swap 'em out. A swaged-and-reamed tube like this is not starting out with the .003" disadvantage, and so may last nearly as long as Oilites (3 races), but they're gonna wear eventually & get swapped.

I never had a brass tube bearing to wear to the point it hurt the proformance of a chassis. Our races used to be 200 laps or about 30 minute races where the tubes would be oiled one time. I'm sure I had a frame or two that stayed competitive 10 or so races.

I have a Turbo frame that never had the oilites changed. I remember that frame going through 26 16 minute races as we were closely watching a new ProSlot/Kelly motor when they were first released. The same oilites also were in two 2-hour enduros and a 4-hour enduro.

Oilites or 5/32nds tubing as a rule are not a trouble spot.

[Duffy]

I eliminated the slop in my drop arm hinge in thirty seconds, by squeezing the tube with pliers & then rotating the rod in the hole to swage it back out.

Everybody has a different take on "This is / Isn't a big deal, my cars need / run fine without this Blivet / that Quazer......"and like so many things, it comes down to how you drive what's in your box. I figure, if some idea makes sense to me I'll try it. Maybe it'll help, or maybe I'll learn something.

Duffy

[tonyp]

I solder the ends of the rear axle tubing and than run a reamer through it. Last at least a race. Honestly I did not notice a difference in handling either way. I'll have to try this along with Dennis's idea next time I build up one.

[Prof. Fate]

Hi

Just yesterday at the local I32 race, an old ex-checkpoint guy was looking at some of my stuff...including my surviving '66 F1 which is illegal under the current rules! Pianowire main rails, 2x47, Dubro Hemi/16d bracket with a 16d, sheet "drop arm" with no hinge. The first race the car was in was in August 66 at the Cottonwood Mall's "orange" track. Broke the hinge at the end of the first heat, and hurriedly repair it. And blew the work the hinge no longer worked. But the car was both faster and easier to drive, which means that no following car I built had a working drop arm hinge!

And pianowire!

Anyway, the "old timer" said "what about humps". I offered that there isn't any way in basic physics to have JUST the chassis respond to the hump and NOT have the drop arm follow. He grinned and we went back to talking about his old Friend Warmack.

Now, I think it was "Mark Twain" who said, "a difference of opinion is what makes for a race".

Fate

[Mopar Rob]

I have been working on two more JD's.

This 4 rail chassis is going to the Checkpoint as a race prize. It has a 3-7/8" wheelbase and a 5/8" guide length




Total weight is 53.2 grams





I'm keeping this 5 rail chassis for myself

[Mopar Rob]

My experiences so far with Jaildoor frames:

8. Bracing the bracket to the rails to the limit of the rules is good to get rid of chatter. Use every bit of brass rod the rules allow you around the motor bracket area.

Dennis:

I took your advice and attempted to do that for my chassis. Also discovered what a pain it is to make the .300 braces allowed per the rules. Figured out a pretty good method for making them all the same, too bad I didn't take photos.





same specs as the 4 rail chassis, but this one weighs 59.2 grams





Anyway it's done.

[MantaRay]

Now all you need to do is make it a slot car and try it out...........Beautiful job Rob........Your best yet..............

[Mopar Rob]

Thanks, but too much work. I should just have purchased one of the $25 jobs for sale online?

Going to work on making it a slot car tonight. Maybe I'll put a thingie body one it?

[Robert V.]

I think you did an amazing job on that chassis, super clean build, i have one of those $25.00 ebay chassis it really is very well done.

[Richie]

Rob,

Truly beautiful work, great job!

-Richie

[Arne Saknussem]

Very nice piece of work, for sure.  More than I feel up to with my failing eyesight and spasmodic left thumb.

 

In the day I used a Champion jig.  Two pieces of aluminum with a bunch of holes for different wheelbases and tire sizes.  That was the last use of threaded axles around my place.

[Bill from NH]

Pete, that would have been one of Champion's Align-O-Jigs.