43 replies to this topic

[dc-65x]

I’ve always wanted to build my own version of a Monogram Midget powered by a Pittman 196 ever since I read this Model Car & Racing magazine article:











Rodney and I talked about building a pair of Midgets on the way home from Eddie’s Slot Car World the other day. We came up with some simple rules for our new 2-car “class”:

1. Pittman 196B motor, “and keep it stock Rick!”
2. Monogram brass chassis plate.
3. “Don’t put a big ugly guide like a Jet flag on it Rick!”
4. We will both run the same gear ratio and rear tires once we decide what works best.


I’m using the EJ’s Hobbies reproduction Midget kit for the body, driver and decals (if anyone wants a good deal on the rest of the kit, PM me):


The motor is a new old stock Pittman 196B. These are great motors and come up on EBay quite frequently. I’ve been running mine on the power supply at 6 volts for several hours a night to break it in. It draws .7 amps and barely gets warm. It’s the closest thing to a “perpetual motion machine” man has yet devised:



I’m using original Monogram wheels and trying Tiny Motors (among others) silicone reproduction Monogram Midget tires:



I’ve also got some original Monogram jam nuts, spacers and a chassis pan I found on EBay. The spur gear is a pot metal MDC and the axles are unknown new old stock:



Time to start a building!

[endbelldrive]

Hi Rick,

This looks like a fun project. Man, I don't have to tell you but those styrene builds sometimes take a lot longer to get into shape than the classic vacuum-formed Pro replicas.

PS: You haven't heard from me lately because I've been held hostage for the last couple of years by a bunch of styrene kit conversions including my latest muse... Renwall 1966 Virgil Exner Revival kits... Ouch!

[Marty Stanley]

Rick,

I'm looking forward to this! It should be a whole lot of fun to watch and I'm sure the typical DC-65X awesome workmanship will shine through.

Once done, I'll bet the midgets will be a blast to race against one another!

[Hworth08]

Rick,

What kind of zapper are you using to refresh the magnet? I remember an earlier article about good results zapping the magnet but I didn't see what what you're using.

[marc]

Yes indeed, these are a blast from the past and very nicely done. Caution!! They're not styrene, they're all done in ABS plastic..

The EJ's kits might be hard to find. I believe they're sold out...

[Bill from NH]

What kind of zapper are you using to refresh the magnet? I remember an earlier article about good results zapping the magnet but I didn't see what what you're using.

Don,

I believe Rick bought a new Trik Trax zapper a year or two ago.

[dc-65x]

Yes indeed, these are a blast from the past and very nicely done. Caution!! They're not styrene, they're all done in ABS plastic... the EJ's kits might be hard to find. I believe they're sold out.

ABS... ... will the same model glue work, Marc?

I bought my kit from Ed at EJ's just a few weeks ago. He's still promoting them on his web site. Here's a link:

EJ's Hobbies

What kind of zapper are you using to refresh the magnet? I remember an earlier article about good results zapping the magnet but I didn't see what what you're using.

Here's my "Big Dog" Zapper, Don. It's old school and I love it.



The magazine article said to just jam a piece of brass into the front of the motor and solder it to the frame . It worked for them but I decided to do something a bit neater.

To mount the front of the motor to the chassis pan I notched the Pittman magnet retainer and soldered a piece of 1/4" wide K&S brass sheet to it.



The Pittman side plates got the holes countersunk for flat head screws to clear the Midget body.



The magazine's solution to mounting the rear of the motor to the pan was to bend the chassis "ears" to fit the wider Pittman motor. With the motor pushed a far rearward as it would go the wheelbase would be short of 3" (the wheelbase of the EJ's Midget chassis). I decided to cut notches in the Pittman axle carrier to fit the Monogram chassis. I also trimmed some extra metal to slide the motor more to the rear and drilled and tapped for 2-56 machine screws:



The chassis ears got trimmed too (at an angle ):



Next I need to align all this junk while I screw it all together.

[marc]

Rick,

On the glue part, no, you'll need to buy some ABS glue. Super Glue company makes it in a tube, it has a different make up. The standard styrene glue won't hold. And make sure you scrape through the chrome to get a good bond. Ya don't want any of them shiny parts flying off...

It's a super kit. Very nice quality. The decal sheet is also outstanding...

How do you like the instruction sheet???

[Gary Bluestone]

Hi Rick,

This looks like a fun project. Man, I don't have to tell you but those styrene builds sometimes take a lot longer to get into shape than the classic vacuum-formed Pro replicas.

PS: You haven't heard from me lately because I've been held hostage for the last couple of years by a bunch of styrene kit conversions including my latest muse... Renwall 1966 Virgil Exner Revival kits... Ouch!

Which Renwal kits are you building? I just built the Stutz and the windshield/ frame assemble was tricky.

[dc-65x]

My "Rick's Jig" to the rescue. With the Korrect jig wheels the motor can angle down against the chassis pan. The wheelbase is locked in at 3" and the motor is centered with pins. TIGHTEN THEM SCREWS!



The rear motor attachment nested into the chassis "ears":



The front motor mount.........



........is screwed into a nut soldered to the bottom of the chassis pan:



The magazine article has the chassis pan flat up against the bottom of the motor. Then they had to cut a hole in the pan for the armature to spin freely .

I set mine up like this:



The chassis pan is parallel with the track surface and the motor is angled down until the front just touches the pan. No hole is cut in the pan for more weight down low.

Different strokes for different folks

[Jairus]

This eyecandy is like dark chocolate cherry cordails man!!!
It's not so much the construction, since that is a given... but it's the beautiful photography too! *sigh*

[Duffy]

It's not so much the construction, since that is a given... but it's the beautiful photography too! *sigh*

Oh Gawd. "He' jus' SO Special Idn'tHe?"

[dc-65x]

NO....I just share pictures of my junk..... NOT THAT JUNK! My slot car junk

[Duffy]

...not that there'd be anything wrong with that, but...

[Jairus]

Duffy is jealous, Duffy is jealous.... *repeat*

[endbelldrive]

Which Renwal kits are you building? I just built the Stutz and the windshield/ frame assemble was tricky.

Hi Gary. I'm cleaning up a Stutz slot car and have an unassembled Duesenberg which will get a scratchbuilt frame. OK...back to our regularly scheduled programming.

[dc-65x]

I don't have the original Monogram drop arm so I made one up. It is 1/16" X 1/2" brass strip with a Dynamic pillow block screwed on for the guide. I had to cut a slot in the arm for the 1/16" hinge tube to fit into or the drop arm would have hung down too low. The guide is an original Monogram (I did not end up using the "hairy braid" shown). Here are the "pieces parts".......



.......and assembled:





Monogram wide rear wheels with Tiny Motors silicone repop Monogram tires and original Monogram Midget wheel inserts:



The finished roller.....cute:





Now to get the body mounted.........

[endbelldrive]

I love the look and "feel" of the chassis. Carry on!

[Jairus]

Yeah, that IS cute! And tight fitting to boot. So... who is going to paint it? NOT ME!
I suggest Chris Clark as he is the best in my book.

[Lone Wolf]

I knew I shouldn't have looked . Sometimes I stare at your work for a long time. Not lonely, just amazed. When I started reading ,first thing I said to myself is he needs a drop arm and I can send him one. Looks like you took care of that. These chassis bend up and down pretty easy and cutting a hole for the arm may be dangerous. Thanks for sharing.

[HarV Wallbanger III]

As always Rick beautiful work!

[dc-65x]

I love the look and "feel" of the chassis. Carry on!

Thanks Bob, onward I go

………So... who is going to paint it? NOT ME!

You’re not . OK, I’ll paint it . Say, are you set up again to paint clear bodies? Hint, hint !

…….These chassis bend up and down pretty easy and cutting a hole for the arm may be dangerous.

Tell me about it! Is there such a thing as “full soft brass” ? I swear I can bend it by starring hard at it .

Hey, thanks Barney

[dc-65x]

I've got the body mounted using it's one mounting post up front. I used the EJ's press in brass insert and screw along with a short 4-40 set screw:



The set screw gets adjusted until the body mounting screw tightens against it and the body can still move around and "rattle" a little.

I soldered a washer on the frames body mounting slot to keep the body from sliding front to back:



The rear of the body is held up by a .040" thick piece of plastic glued under the seat. It contacts the top of the motor:



The body sits level with the track and nice and low:







I've got glued and trued Monogram repop tires from Pauls Slot Car Shop (urethane), Tiny Motors (silicone) and good old 40 year old 30mm "Germans" ready to try out.

Time for a track day

[mdiv]

Looking good, Rick!!!!!!!!

I just ordered another midget from Ed, I put together one about 3 or 4 years ago but sold it at a swap meet. Gonna take my time and have fun with the new one when it gets in, not nearly as much scratchbuilding as yours but it will be a hoot!

Mike

[dc-65x]

Thanks Mike. Glad to hear you got a "fidget for a Midget". I'd love to see your project!
Have fun