70 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

The original set screw wheels cleaned up real sweet and are in great shape, so I will simply re-rubber them. JK natural rubber donuts rear, and EJ's Hobbies #15 front tires.
I made new 1/8 custom fit axles, since the originals were scored, bent, and rusted.
Note the big pieces of flash on the rear edges of the Jet Flag; the one on the port side mikes at .035
OUCH That couldn't have helped the (already) bad handling. All the flag needs is some TLC to make it flat.
As many problems as I have found with this car, it amazes me it even ran.
But it has a lot of good points, as well.

[Pablo]

The uglyness of the rear end, I could live with, but the combination of the old bushing and the tubing being misaligned, I cannot. It must be removed. Time to fire up the Hakko 455

[Bill from NH]

That looks like it was soldered with a match!

[Pablo]

Bill, you may be right !

A few tweaks, some relaxation of solder joints, and an axle realignment front and rear.

The rear axle assembly was an oilite soldered to the bracket (crooked) with tubes butted up against them. My solution: removed the tubes, refloated the oilites in the proper position, drilled them out to .170", installed new tube floated in at about .820

Drop arm was straightened and a little WD-40 brought the hinge back to life. It was all easier than expected, thanks to the original builder. He probably didn't have some of the tools that I do, but it was certainly well thought-out.

Now, where is that doggone Buffalo Arms soap ?

[Pablo]

Pablo nice find. Looks to me like it was raced on an oval due to the right rear tire ware, Also the guide is not square as in stright up and down and cocked to the left in the picture, not much but a little TLC and you have a runner. Am I right?

You nailed it 100%, Ken.

I don't see much wrong except the droparm doesn't have enough bend out by the guide.

Good call Don, you are correct, except what you cannot see is, the builder took that into consideration, and allowed the drop arm to raise above normal to compensate. I didn't change anything with the drop arm because the design works well. Using thin modern braid, and the Jet Flag, everything will work out fine.

If that frame gets changed much it loses it's personality. It will lose it's slot car soul, once it's gone it can't be returned.

I did my best, Don. What do you think ?

[Hworth08]

Real nice job! I even went back and checked the first page, the frame DID keep it's soul! I've mentioned before, Philippe opened my eyes to being "period correct" and rightfully so. Just so many frames like this one exist. Fix 'em and preserve 'em as they were!

Again, a pretty job and now a peice of slot history.

[Pablo]

Thanks Don, I appreciate it !

[Horsepower]

Now that's a chassis, what IS a chassis!

[havlicek]

Hey...I was wondering where that motor went...VERY cool build Pablo!

-john

[dc-65x]

Hi Pablo,

The chassis really looks great. Nice work!

Here's a mod for that Jet flag that Steve Okeefe showed me:

OK, here's what I'm stuffing in this drop arm. On the left is a Cox guide, at center is my modified guide, and on the right is a stock Parma "The Blade".





Steve Okeefe taught me to do this. I used a Dremel tool, a file, and some sandpaper. It does nothing but, I hope, add to the "reflecting the spirit of the mid-1960s racing era."

What do you think?

[Pablo]

Thanks, Rick

Pretty cool mod to the Jet Flag, all right

[Bill from NH]

This guide article is one of Steve's numerous little tricks I'd like to see uploaded on his website.

Pablo, this chassis all cleaned up looks almost brand new! Nice job! Be sure to show us body & wheel photos when those items are completed. Does that droparm need a Classic guide weight?

[Duffy]

...I have a lathe; do we need Classic guide weight clones?


Duffy

[Pablo]

Thanks, Bill

No, I don't think it needs a weight up front.
-The original car didn't have it, and based on how well worn it was, I'd say it ran fine without it.
-The basic design of the chassis is well balanced.
-Look at how short the GL is, about 1/2", so the weight of the 1/8 axle plus the fronts should be enough weight.
-The Lotus 40 body will provide some front downforce.

Agree or disagree ?

[Pablo]

Thanks for the reminder, Duf. Not yet. But soon.
Make some up and send em, they won't go to waste

[Duffy]

Make some up and send em,

Dimensions. Pictures. Best, sample.

[Pablo]

Sample inbound tomorrow.

[Pablo]

Camera makes it seem more orange-like than it is.
The actual color is a nice cold red.
This is about 5 coats of Pactra Acrylics.
Decals are inside, of course.

[Pablo]

The Havlicek Russkit geared 7/27 makes the drivetrain scream !!
Pinion: new vintage.
Crown: new Parma.
Alpha #511 lead wires.
Original Jet Flag.
Modern thin braid.
Wheels are the original set screw types that came on the car, JK Natural Rubber rear, EJ's Hobbies #15 front.
Custom made front axle spacers.
1/8 new custom cut axles from PCH. (these axles are HARD, better order some more Dremel discs)
Other spacers are the best, Slick 7 stainless.
Shortened, hollowed set screws from Chicagoland. Balances the drivetrain.

[Jairus]

Paul,
that is looking great! Other than the lead wires, the chassis looks very traditional and should be faster than it can possibly handle with Havlicek power. IMHO I'd add some weight to the tongue... either a brass weight from E.J.'s or some lead will help and still remain period correct. (late 1966/early 67 I figure)

I have two similar early early jail door builds in the pipeline, both getting Havlicek power of course. Just waiting for a McLaren Elva body to arrive.
Hope I can do my projects the same justice.

Your painting skills keep improving.... way to go!

[Horsepower]

This guide article is one of Steve's numerous little tricks I'd like to see uploaded on his website.

Bill- I haven't seen any updates to Steve's website since February. I wonder if all is well with him.I sure hope so.

[Bill from NH]

Bill- I haven't seen any updates to Steve's website since February. I wonder if all is well with him.I sure hope so.

Those are the last updates I've seen from Steve too.

[Pablo]

Steve is fine.

Jairus, The sexy, whoopie Outisight Lotus 40 should provide some downforce, and my theory was, no drop arm weight was needed. HOWEVER, I woke at 3 am in a cold sweat and decided to follow your advice. So, I compromised. I drilled out, and secured, a STEEL weight over the flag tube. hahahaha

[Duffy]

I have two similar early early jail door builds in the pipeline, both getting Havlicek power of course. Just waiting for a McLaren Elva body to arrive.

Ohh, you mean like THIS one?...



I set this up D3/JDSC-legal, and sometimes I pull it out and run it in practice to scare the Hotshots. It's beautiful, and there's no better
reason than that to put it on the track. (I keep scheming to build a JD Vanwall, just to mess with guys' heads! "...Whaddaya mean it's
not an "approved" body? Is it TOO NEW??...")

I woke at 3 am in a cold sweat and decided to follow your advice. So, I compromised. I drilled out, and secured, a STEEL weight over the flag tube.

Watch your mailbox this week, you'll have a brass one before this has a chance to rust.

Duffy

[Pablo]

my gf will be so happy to read this