Harvey Aluminum Special
#26
Posted 02 September 2011 - 07:39 PM
1950-2016
Requiescat in Pace
And I am awaiting
perpetually and forever
a renaissance of wonder
#27
Posted 02 September 2011 - 10:02 PM
Anthony 'Tonyp' Przybylowicz
5/28/50-12/20/21
Requiescat in Pace
#28
Posted 02 September 2011 - 10:15 PM
1950-2016
Requiescat in Pace
And I am awaiting
perpetually and forever
a renaissance of wonder
#29
Posted 02 September 2011 - 10:15 PM
Rick,
This is looking very good - but that is not a surprise. I love looking at your builds as I just use them as way to measure how my builds are coming along.
BTW, where do you buy that 'disappearing solder' that you are obviously using?
1/24/48-2/18/16
Requiescat in Pace
#30
Posted 03 September 2011 - 02:42 PM
Thanks for the goodies Sir Duffster .
Hi Marty, that acid flux and high heat makes the solder do what I call "flash plate" the brass almost everywhere there is flux. It's REALLY a thin coating so I just sand the crap-O-la off leaving actual joint alone. I like all the shiny metal....especially brass .
I struggled with wheels and tires for a Harvey. From reading all those old magazine articles in my "Tail Of Two Harvey's" thread I believe the "Korrect" rear tire diameter is 24" and wheel diameter is 12" (about 13 3/4" overall diameter).
In 1/24 scale that would be a 1" diameter tire on a .574" wheel. What I ended up with was a little smaller diameter tire (15/16" vs. 1") and a little bigger diameter wheel (.625" vs. .574"). I used a Russkit standard rear wheel and a Paul's of Canada urethane reproduction Cox Goodyear tire. Stock on the left and ground to 15/16" on the right:
The same scenario for the fronts. The same Russkit standard rear wheels with Monogram 1/32 scale GP car rear tires ground to 7/8". I also made one wheel free wheeling and soldered a wheel retainer on the axle. The free wheeling wheel in counter bored for the retainer so wheel inserts will fit flush:
Now I've got to get some old school gears that mesh . My MDC pot metal crown gear just ate my Tradeship brass pinion
Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...
#31
Posted 03 September 2011 - 03:54 PM
Don
#32
Posted 03 September 2011 - 04:08 PM
1950-2016
Requiescat in Pace
And I am awaiting
perpetually and forever
a renaissance of wonder
#33
Posted 03 September 2011 - 05:08 PM
The deceased Tradeship brass pinion was a 9T mated to an MDC 30T. Then I tried this Wilson steel 10T pinion (I don't have a 9T) with the same crown:
They mesh near perfectly even set up with very little back lash. I can also try an MDC 32T if I need to:
Here's the roller ready to go with a Cox screw type guide and Marklin train lead wire:
The clear test fit body centered between the motor and wheels:
I'll go and "dig out" my home track and make some laps.........
Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...
#34
Posted 03 September 2011 - 08:06 PM
Beautiful.
Steve King
#35
Posted 03 September 2011 - 08:33 PM
1950-2016
Requiescat in Pace
And I am awaiting
perpetually and forever
a renaissance of wonder
#36
Posted 03 September 2011 - 09:00 PM
Yah okay--but--I keep wanting the bracket to offset itself back to symmetrical......
I know Duffy you are a very technical guy...that's what you do as a Master Tool and Die Maker. But think about it from the vintage little toy car perspective. With the minimal power and traction from 1965 technology does the car really care if the axle bearing is closer to the wheel on one side than it is on the other? After driving the car on my home track a few minutes ago I can say it doesn't. The car runs and handles just 1965 era fine.
I'm glad I went ahead and built it this way after I discovered the motor wouldn't fit the body with its armature shaft on the centerline as I had planned. If I hadn't said, "screw theory" and just built it I wouldn't have this fun car now.
I could have made a rear axle bracket but I wanted to use that "dawn of time" Auto Hobbies piece...
Something else about driving the car just now. It was a little light on brakes and I realized I had forgotten to rezap the motor. After a good Zap of the "Big Dog Zapper" the gauss reading went up from the low 400's to the high 600's.
I expected to have an increase in braking but it remained about the same. What did happen is the motor came alive and when you punch the car it picks up and carries the front wheels down the straights . There is no pickup brush arcing so I think it's happy this way .
I can't wait to try it out on Eddie's Blue King .
Onward.....
Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...
#37
Posted 03 September 2011 - 09:39 PM
What will the paint be like ?
Paul Wolcott
#38
Posted 03 September 2011 - 09:58 PM
So far I'm going to using this Lancer factory painted body.......but with a twist :
On a side note Pablo, I'm kind of worried. My boy sent me this email today:
Dont know if you heard about the 7.2 earthquake outside the Aluetuan Islands but were all fine. Had some crazy seas though, the bow of our ship played submarine a few times - took a sweet video from the bridge that I'll try to send to you next week.
YIKES!
Worried Dad Pablo...........
Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...
#39
Posted 03 September 2011 - 10:18 PM
Paul Wolcott
#40
Posted 03 September 2011 - 10:22 PM
Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...
#41
Posted 01 October 2011 - 04:02 PM
Since I want the car to represent the 1965 time period I decided to stick with 40mm "Germans". The car is slower that with the later period foam tires but it's a hoot to drift around the track:
The pipes are from a Monogram 427 Cobra model kit:
The "Little Man" is a Lancer GP interior kit"
The roll bar is 1/16" aluminum rod:
These aren't the wheel inserts I'd planned on using. I broke one of my only set of 4 Monogram Midget model kit wheels I was going to use . Oh well....
Onward
- MarcusPHagen likes this
Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...
#42
Posted 01 October 2011 - 05:05 PM
Steve King
#43
Posted 01 October 2011 - 06:06 PM
Philippe de Lespinay
#44
Posted 01 October 2011 - 08:51 PM
Joe "Noose" Neumeister
Sometimes known as a serial despoiler of the clear purity of virgin Lexan bodies. Lexan is my canvas!
Noose Custom Painting - Since 1967
Chairman - IRRA® Body Committee - Roving IRRA® Tech Dude - "EVIL BUCKS Painter"
"Team Evil Bucks" Racer - 2016 Caribbean Retro Overall Champion
The only thing bad about Retro is admitting that you remember doing it originally.
#45
Posted 01 October 2011 - 09:04 PM
I struggled with detailing the pre-painted body. I couldn't make it look like any "real" Harvey so I tried to make it look like a 1965 commercial slot car. I'm not sure I succeeded but I tried .
Noose, I kept thinking if I had the skill with a paint brush that artists like you and Jairus have, this car could have livened the car up quite a bit.
Anywho, I think it looks good on the track and it really is a fun car to drive .
Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...
#46
Posted 01 October 2011 - 09:46 PM
#47
Posted 01 October 2011 - 10:05 PM
THAT is the best Harvey I've ever seen. We chopped them and did all kinds of unholy things to them as a kid. You made the car live again!
-john
#48
Posted 01 October 2011 - 11:07 PM
#49
Posted 01 October 2011 - 11:48 PM
I reckon you did.I'm not sure I succeeded but I tried
Boy... if those things were for sale back then, we would have been standing in line with our paper run and caddying money burning holes in our pockets.
- MarcusPHagen likes this
Steve King
#50
Posted 02 October 2011 - 11:42 AM
Remember, two wrongs don't make a right... but three lefts do! Only you're a block over and a block behind.