84 replies to this topic

[slotcarone]

Very early in this topic I posted a few times about how I have used the solder on straight pinions on both Can Am and F1 with hypoid set ups and they work just as well or better than the angled ones with no noise at all.

[MSwiss]

ARP-4807-A 7 tooth 48 pitch ultra low friction steel pinion gears with 6 degree angle,
ARP-4807-S 7 tooth 48 pitch ultra low friction steel pinion gears,
ARP-4808-A 8 tooth 48 pitch ultra low friction steel pinion gears with 6 degree angle,
ARP-4808-S 8 tooth 48 pitch ultra low friction steel pinion gears,
ARP-4809-A 9 tooth 48 pitch ultra low friction steel pinion gears with 6 degree angle,

Ron,
Just curious.
Where is the above listing from?
I can't seem to find 4807-S on the Eagle website.
They do list straight on 8, 9 and 10's.

Also, for some reason, they list the angled 48P pinions as 13 degree instead of 6 degree.

[Ron Hershman]

Ron,
Just curious.
Where is the above listing from?
I can't seem to find 4807-S on the Eagle website.

Crawley Dist website

[Tex]

I've not been the most scientific or methodical of builders. I was so proud when I completed a retro Can-Am chassis a couple months ago 'cause that meant I could have TWO chassis' at a race; if I bent one, I had a backup. Problem is, I couldn't make the new one work... gear problems. The new one was hypoid while "Old Reliable" was not. I REALLY wanted the new one to work, figuring a lower center of gravity was better. The light bulb finally came on and I realized that I was using old gears (VERY old gears) on the hypoid chassis and the chances were HUGE that the gears had not only previously been used on one or more non-hypoid chassis but ALSO with F7's which rotate the opposite direction. I made up my mind to acquire a separate set of gears for each chassis and use them ONLY on their respective chassis. Got new crowns AND pinions. I put the new gears on the new chassis and proceeded to break them in on the power supply with an old motor(TSR) in the chassis. 3 volts. 5 volts. 3 again. 5 again. I probably broke them in for a couple of hours, on and off, for a couple of days. The car will hit the track tomorrow with the new gears. The mesh feels smooth right now. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

[slotcarone]

Tex I have built many retro cars all with hypoid brackets over the lats 5 years and I have found it doesnt matter if you use a straight pinion or an angled one they both give a beautiful mesh with no break in required. When you use a new Parma crown gear they are very quiet indeed!!!

[Gator Bob]

I love hypoid.
If you look closely you can see the effects of the of the off center pinion on the crown gear tooth face. No big thing as they brake in perfectly .
In retro I like to switch CCW - CW but there you must keep the the crowns dedicated to the rotation.
When I get a good combo well tested or that raced well and decide to"save" that motor I just leave the pinion on and put the crown gear in the same little zip lock bag. The crown stays with the pinion.
I don't solder my motors in and use lead wire connectors on every motor, and life is good.

I do prefer the angled pinion if you only have to go up or down one tooth on the crown for tuning. If you don't what to expect at a new track I would use the straight pinion for more crown choices without re-setting the pinion. I do think there is less friction with the angled.

Oh...did I mention I've never won a Can-Am retro race in 4 tries ... but the car has

[Horsepower]

I have a boatload of vintage brass hypoids. Are you telling me they are worthless to use?
hashtag:#gears

[Gator Bob]

Gary, I've got some NOS cast pot metal MDC hypoids if you need any.

[Tim Neja]

Doesn't matter what we "think" about hypoid or not--we'll find out ON THE TRACK!!

[Phil Hackett]

Doesn't matter what we "think" about hypoid or not--we'll find out ON THE TRACK!!

...and driving the car is 95% of winning....