113 replies to this topic

[gotboostedvr6]

Try black magic marker on any surface of the pinion you don't want solder to stick to.

[Pablo]

This is awesome. Thanks for starting this thread, JC!

[Guy Spaulding]

Presumably everybody practices the habbit of using tools, then cleaning them after use, before putting them away, right?

Just one exception: the Soldering Iron. Never clean the tip after use, and never store it clean.

Clean the tip ONLY just before use.

This practice will make the tip last longer.

[Tex]

'flem1959', on 19 Jan 2012 - 05:35 AM, said:

Make sure you hook up your Controller the right way between heats!

Man, how many times has THAT screwed us collectively! LOL.

[Tex]

Here's an "anti-tip".

Why clean the metal (steel) bits from a motor? They'll stick to the magnets and won't get between the comm and brushes. It drives people nuts when I do that.

Did I mention that I've never won a Retro Can-Am race?

[Gator Bob]

'Pablo', on 20 Jan 2012 - 10:10 PM, said:

"I also reflux the tinned shaft and then heat the pinion on"

Thanks Rick, I forgot that, and have added it to my text now.

Acid Reflux?

[Guy Spaulding]

'Bob Israelite', on 21 Jan 2012 - 12:12 AM, said:

Acid reflux?

Yeah. Acid, along with a little Nexium works much better than rosin paste.

[Pablo]

Tex, I don't care if you never win a race as long as you live, you will still be "Tex" and you are a winner.

I learned a very important race secret from you last time we pitted together at Sano.

[Tex]

What? That you can kick my @$$ in a straight up head-to-head matchup? It was a pleasure, Pablo.

[Gator Bob]

'Guy Spaulding', on 21 Jan 2012 - 12:20 AM, said:

Yeah. Acid, along with a little Nexium works much better than rosin paste.

So we CAN make our own paste.

[Pablo]

No, Tex. The lesson I learned from you is, spend more time practicing driving, and less time tweaking cars that are already competitive. You were practicing on the flat track while I was wasting time trying every combination. My cars were fine, I needed trigger practice.

JC, why won't you respond to my PMs?

Here is another tip for aspiring racers. I have been doing this for years with strips of sandpaper on a block. Now, I have a nice tool to do it.

[Rick]

Nifty tool ya got there, Pablo... heh-heh.

[John Miller]

I use the Koford stainless steel side play tool when I solder on fronts.

It really makes life easier when setting up a new car.

[Pablo]

Show us a photo, John M. I was unaware Koford made anything other than wing car fronts.

[John Miller]

Koford 003 sideplay adjusting tool

[John C Martin]

Lets debate guide flags.

i don't feel you need anything but low profile/cut-down guides any more since tech rules allow any front clearance or none. On a track I haven't been to I go to a couple different places to check for any high or low spots. If all seems pretty even, I figure one 10 thou. shim for even braid depth. If braid is higher mostly all over I run no shims.

If my car is coming out/pushing out, I need usually to take out a shim, or slightly bend up inside ear, or down on outside ear if I have no more shims to take out. Because I don't use front tires to touch on any car, even 4.5 NASCAR, even oval. Exception would be Retro and FCR. Full blades are for when cars were being teched in front, so unless your track is routed out to 40+ thousands deep I'd run cut down blades...

Another thing I do is set car on track and the ears should be about .010" off track as I push down on guide. I look at new people's cars a lot and this usually the number one problem...

If car is still pushing out, put a harder tire on the outside. I hate a car pushing out!!

Pablo, I am computer stupid. Also I did answer you in a blog about your gearing... #28. Sorry though, I still love ya.

[Pablo]

Thanks, John M. I have a plastic one that PA Watson sold me but I like yours much better!

[Pablo]

JC,

I still did not get the answer to my PM question. If you don't want to answer, just tell me to shut up and I'll go on with my life.

[John C Martin]

I have been racing out of town; rather Ralph was racing and I was trying to stay out of everyone's way...

Tried to answer again; did I?

[Pablo]

Got it, JC. Thank you and let me say again, I am so happy to see you posting here with the rest of us fuddy-duddies...

You experience is greatly appreciated!!!

[John C Martin]

Post-race inspection, before the next race I'll take the spur off and see how easy the axle will spin. Only takes a little hit to hurt it sometimes. Also cleaning those brown axles doesn't hurt either.

Any more suggestions?

[brnursebmt]

Does anybody match their braid except me? If you buy several pairs of braid you will notice that they are NOT all the same. The weave is very different from spool to spool that the pieces are cut from. This affects the thickness and width of the braid. Match up the braid first and you probably will not have to do much more to it, not to mention that your car will work much better.

[Steve Deiters]

Braid: I've noticed that braid from the same bag can vary up .005" in thickness. I "crush" the braid with the flat section of my needle-nosed pliers to "standardize" the thickness of the braid and make them symmetric.

Masking bodies: I have found that when you use the the masks cut out of plastic supplied by most body makers the edges sometime "pucker" and lift in some places. I now cut out the mask and use it as a pattern and trace it over wide paper masking tape and then use the tape eliminating or minimizing the puckering problem.

[Cheater]

'Pablo', on 20 Jan 2012 - 8:50 PM, said:

(Big snip...)

Sounds complicated but once you do it this way, you will never go back to guessing or fumbling.

One more step you should add, Pablo.

After the last step, while the solder is still liquid, take the tip of an X-Acto or a small screwdriver and spin the pinion a couple of rotations. This helps to make sure the solder bond is a full 180 degrees as well as helps the pinion's centerline to be closer to being co-axial with the arm shaft's centerline.

[Cheater]

'brnursebmt', on 30 Jan 2012 - 6:23 PM, said:

Does anybody match their braid except me?

I do, Bobby, or did when I was actively racing Flexis.

I have a plastic box I carry in my slot box that will hold at least a hundred pair of braid and when I buy another batch, I just empty it into my braid box. Noticed years ago that the thickness of the braid differed on different brands of braid.

So when I grab a pair, I always check the thickness with calipers to be sure I have two braids of the same thickness.