1275 replies to this topic

[Maximo]

the period correct 72 pitch gears

Aren't only 48 pitch appropriate for this specific era?

BTW,...NO new official showings in almost a week...only FOUR entries....I'm worried!

-Max

[Jaak]

Max,

I am doing my best to see if i can find a solution to my problem,
even if it means i enter the car while it has not been run in.

I want to be a part of this at least as much as anybody else,
besides i spend to much time and money not to enter

My problems are giving it the right TLC to make it a bit competitive.

p.s the gears are Taylor gears.

Edited by Jaak Beentjes, 02 September 2012 - 05:13 PM.

[One27ray]

I'm almost done



Should have it posted over in the other thread in the next day or so

[Jaak]

Ray,

It looks fantastic i was going to go with similar striping in Yellow and make the rest red.
Will alter that not to have it look to much like each others.

Hope i can get the body as nicely cut as you have.

[Jairus]

Looks GREAT and very much in the spirit of the era Ray!

[Pablo]

The #66 rocks !!

[Maximo]

Ray,

Brightly painted machine! I love orange and yellow...! Looks really good. Solid. Mean.

-Max

[Gator Bob]

Nice car Ray !!!
The sides look **New and improved** Love the decals too.

[One27ray]

Thanks Guys

I made various version of the Choti body styles. In this version, I scalloped the side to bring it down to 3" chassis width
I tried the Red/yellow scheme but, bright orange stands out better at a distance

[Jairus]

I made various version of the Choti body styles. In this version, I scalloped the side to bring it down to 3" chassis width

Good idea!

[Gator Bob]

Ray,
I just checked out the 'whole' car on the other thread. It looks Great and I think you picked the right wind for your motor.

Everybody that posted so far - Cool cars, all the way !

[One_Track_Mind]

On Ray's car?

Are the lead wires on backwards?
just askin'? it appears John has the right side marked + and by the way the pic looks in the photo the + wire is going to left side of the flag?


NICE build!

[One27ray]

On Ray's car?

Are the lead wires on backwards?
just askin'? it appears John has the right side marked + and by the way the pic looks in the photo the + wire is going to left side of the flag?


NICE build!

Your probably right Brian I wasn't sure on it thanks Buddy I'll change it ASAP

[Gator Bob]

So ....

Does anyone think mounting tires on old rims is keeping some guys away?

Angled pinions Were available in the 60s .... they just called them beveled.

So ...

The 'Swamp Buggy" was tested on the King track .... to darn slow at a 4.49 ... needs 'MoPower'*.

I know we each get 2 ... but... like... How do challenges actually work?

What happens if stuff gets changed after the 10th due to testing?

I know I will not get the tires mounted and returned by the 10th.

Oscar or anyone that tested on a King .... 'Wad'ja* run'?

^{*Intentional misspelling}

[Mike K]

Still sourcing wheels that are "vintage" other than the ED Russkit wheels which I am testing Wednesday. The ED Russkit wheels are much larger diameter than desired to get the car down to .062 clearance. I ran my first tests with JK plastic hubs right out of the bottle. I have two other pairs mounted up with smaller hubs, but they are '90s era wheels....

[Jairus]

So ....
Does anyone think mounting tires on old rims is keeping some guys away?

No.

Angled pinions Were available in the 60s .... they just called them beveled.

Yes, and if someone wants to use vintage brass beveled gears (most were 64 pitch) then they are welcome to. As I said in the rules... (and you profited by that with your heat sinks)... use NOTHING that was not manufactured before 1970! (Exceptions for consumables of course)

I know we each get 2 ... but... like... How do challenges actually work?

If you see something that you want to go "to the mat" over then you make a challenge to me with backing information. For example someone wanting to challenge your use of heat sinks for ... for heat sinks. I accept the challenge and ask you to provide proof that it could have actually been done back in the day. The challenger too is required to come up with some sort of proof and not empty demands.
Others can voice their opinions and back up the challenge or back the challenged entry.
I will eventually have to make a determination but I want to listen to all parties first.
THAT is why we have the viewing deadline of Sept 10th... so we can all have time to calmly assess and determine a course of action when a challenge is lodged against an entry.

What happens if stuff gets changed after the 10th due to testing?

I don't expect much to change due to testing. Gear changes, tire changes and weight added mostly. Nothing to worry about as those are normal adjustments done during testing.
Heck, I am planning on dropping my gear ratio for a few laps to see if I can improve the speed a touch this week!

I know I will not get the tires mounted and returned by the 10th.

You've had 3 months to build Bob! Why did you wait so long?
I suppose we can allow you this one exception.
GIT IT DONE!

[Jaak]

Ok as good as done,

Waiting for the guide weight then i will finalize fitting the body,
then it will be finished.
I will post the finished article pictures in the appropriate thread along with spilling the beans on stuff.

Red Devil #77

[MantaRay]

Help......I need to know the Best Safe way to melt in some reliefs for front wheels...........in bodys that were made by Ray Fellows.
I'm headin' to the home stretch on the Cars for Brassrodman and myself

[slotbaker]

I'm certainly no exspert on this, so there are probably better ways.

One way that I did mine, was with a teaspoon over a candle to warm it up.

Don't go too hot first up, or you will melt through. Lost one body that way.

Warm the spoon try it on the inside of the body, and your finger on the outside in the same spot so you can feel how hot the plastic is getting.
Be careful the spoon doesn't stick to the plastic.

Remove the spoon when plastic gets hot, use your other finger on the inside to form the bulge and hold it there until it cools.
Don't try to go all the way first up, do a bit at a time.
You may have to do it a few times to get enough bulge.

One side of mine turned out great... the other, not so great, but at least it clears the front wheels.

[Mike K]

Help......I need to know the Best Safe way to melt in some reliefs for front wheels...........

Mini torch

Ray- how thick/thin are those bodies??

[MantaRay]

.015 to .020

[gascarnut]

Just cut some holes - they are Thingies after all, who said the bodies have to hide the wheels?

[Jairus]

Use your exacto blade handle and a torch Ray.

Hold the handle in bare fingers so you can keep track of how hot it is. If you can't hold it... your getting it too hot.
Pass the tip through the flame for only 5 seconds at first and increase time as needed.
Then roll the tip (handle end) into the plastic blowing on the handle to cool. That way the plastic cools quickly and conforms to shape.
Practice on some scrap till you get the handle of it.
Too hot and the plastic will melt. You just want to soften it and conform the plastic to the shape of the round handle.
That's exactly how I did mine. (Twice when I moved the body forward.)


Oh... and Dennis is correct! Cutting holes is okay too.

[MantaRay]

thanks to all

[One27ray]

I would agree with Jairus's method 100%
As long as you haven't painted them yet.
I mounted mine on the mold itself.