40 replies to this topic

[Tattoo_Paul]

I have a Parma Turbo controller that I would like to upgrade to an electronic controller. I was considering a Difalco DD254-HD30 with a DD256 resistor block (I race 16D only - for now).

How difficult is the conversion? Does the heatsink mount in any specific area of the cables? I like the designs such as the Difalco Genesis controllers where the heat sink is close to the track connections, so that it can be hung on the track wall rather than dangling off the controller itself.

Thank you for any insight.

[Wizard Of Iz]

The Difalco upgrade is fairly easy. The written instructions are good, but it will help if you can borrow a built Difalco to use as a reference.

Jim is said to be close to releasing a DIY kit for the Genesis-style build.

[Tattoo_Paul]

The Difalco upgrade is fairly easy. The written instructions are good, but it will help if you can borrow a built Difalco to use as a reference.

Jim is said to be close to releasing a DIY kit for the Genesis-style build.

Would you recommend waiting for the release of that kit? Is there a reason for mounting the heatsink close to the controller handle, or could it be located further away without affecting performance and operation?

[Wizard Of Iz]

I would wait.

Having the heat sink near the hook-up makes the controller a little more comfortable

[Tattoo_Paul]

I would wait.

Having the heat sink near the hook-up makes the controller a little more comfortable

I tend to agree with you. I actually have a Genesis already. I was just looking to upgrade the Parma as a backup - or to let my nephew use it so he'll get hooked on slot racing, too!

[Tattoo_Paul]

_{Scott, PM sent.}

[Mike Patterson]

If you decide to build a Difalco kit, I would STRONGLY recommend using Jim's frame, as opposed to modifying a Turbo frame. A lot less fiddling is involved.

[Tattoo_Paul]

If you decide to build a Difalco kit, I would STRONGLY recommend using Jim's frame, as opposed to modifying a Turbo frame. A lot less fiddling is involved.

Interesting. The frames look identical. What differences are there?

[Mike Patterson]

Paul, a Turbo frame is aluminum, the Difalco appears to be circuit board material, whatever that is nowadays, and is much smaller. I built one of Jim's kits 5 years ago, and the asssembly is pretty straight forward. If you need a pic, I can post one. The only parts of the Turbo that you will use are the handles and the trigger. I just bought them new, and kept my Turbo as a backup/loaner.

[Tattoo_Paul]

Well, I guess I'll have to find out the old-fashioned way. I'm pretty handy, and as long as there are no small parts to fly out (the ones too small for my old eyeballs to locate on the floor, anyway) I'll 'git er done'.

[urone]

Mike, would you post a pic of your Turbo upgrade I'd like to see it. Thanks!

[Mike Patterson]

Lorenzo, my controller is not really a Turbo upgrade, it is a Difalco kit assembled by me. If you have ever seen a Difalco with the handles off, mine looks just like that. Jim's kits are VERY good. The instructions leave a little to be desired, as noted in post #2. I can post pics of the problem areas if you like.

[Mark Crowley]

I emailed Jim D. last week about the DD242 DIY frame kit for a new build and he stated that the frame kit has been discontinued. I think all of his new modules will fit correctly on a Parma frame which may be why he is not sellin the frame anymore. I built a Genesis DD273 Pro Module on a Parma frame a while back and everything lined up beautiful. Here is a link to the build: http://www.slotcarta...ro-Module-Build I would think your DD254 build would be very similar.
Mark

[Tattoo_Paul]

Mark, that link is very helpful. My kit should arrive (hopefully) some time this week. Maybe I'll do a photo "how to" if it's significantly different.

[John Streisguth]

Having done exacty this build, I highly recommend the ball bearing trigger kit if you have not gotten it already. Makes a HUGE difference.

[Mark Crowley]

John VW: I have been thinking about ordering the BB trigger kit for my road course controller. I ordered the $59 Drag module from my local track last week and they stated they couldn't get the DIY DD242 kit, but they still carried the 10 gauge wires. That is why I emailed Jim with the DIY frame availability question. Jim's reply stated "The DD242 is discontinued and was never intended for drag modules. If you want full power get the DD402 relay kit for the drags. You can use the DD904 if you just want nice wire but the relay will work better. The DD721 is the ball bearing kit and makes everything much smoother and removes all the trigger play in the Parma trigger."
Tattoo Paul: I assume you can install the DD254 you ordered on the Parma frame just like I did on my Genesis build using small steel angles. I can't find any current info online about your kit except where is says to buy the DIY 242 frame/wires. Unfortunately the Difalco web site is way out of date and doesn't show some of the latest modules or kits. Please post and let us know how your build goes and what is in the kit

[Mark Crowley]

Tattoo Paul:
I just noticed that there is a new Difalco Genesis HD30, ProBrake kit with the number DD276 for about $179. Is this the kit you purchased. If so it looks like it will install on a Parma frame exactly the same as my DD242 kit.
Mark

[John Streisguth]

I installed a BB trigger on a stock turbo I use for local flexi racing...big improvement there too!

Here are pics of my turbo conversion (they were taken before the BB trigger and also before Jim fixed a few problems). Make sure you use a floating wiper button!

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[urone]

Does the " floating wiper button " mean a hinged wiper arm? I'm not clear on what you mean can you explain. Thanks

[John Streisguth]

When DiFalco worked on my controller to fix a problem with the brakes, he did a few things to improve the function, one being the floating wiper button. Instead of the button being solidly mounted in the arm (and in the pictures I posted, soldered in), he opened the hole slightly so the button would float and therefore lay flat on the board through the travel, and then soldered a small flexible wire to the button to maintan the continuity. This was not something pointed out in the installation instructions, but was an obvious little trick he does for better performance and less wear on the board. The controller has performed flawlessly since he did his magic on it, only needing the brake and full power contacts cleaned occaisionally.
Make sure you put a drop of braid juice on the wiper path every time you race, wiping off the excess, to keep it working smoothly. I have found that is a big key to it working well.

[John Streisguth]

BTW: the hinged wiper arm is called a "Fleming Hinge" if I'm not mistaken....did that mod to HO controllers I had back in the 90's

[dalek]

Make sure you put a drop of braid juice on the wiper path every time you race, wiping off the excess, to keep it working smoothly. I have found that is a big key to it working well.

Not that it's a lot of trouble to wipe the juice off but I don't bother.

I have a 30-band Difalco and I put a drop of Voo Doo on the board at either end of the wiper path then pull the trigger full travel a few times. I do this maybe as often as every 15 minutes. Keeps the action silky smooth.

[John Streisguth]

I agree Dale, keeps it smooth. I always get a reminder to do it if the action feels a little "gritty". A drop or two and it's good to go.

I pretty much just give it a wipe with one of my fingers (not the trigger finger! LOL), rather than a cloth.

[dalek]

I always get a reminder to do it if the action feels a little "gritty". A drop or two and it's good to go.

Exactly, John!

I also have a Turbo controller that I rarely use but when I do I put Voo Doo on the wiper path every few minutes - when it feels "grittier" (compared to an electronic controller, it always feels "gritty"). If I was racing, I would absolutely juice it as often as every heat.

Using the Voo Doo juice allowed me to reduce the spring tension on the trigger so it's not as tiresome to use the Turbo controller and the wiper still reliably returns to the brake position when I release the trigger.

Besides juicing the controller wiper path, I use the juice regularly on my guide braids as the bottle suggests (keeps them shiny), so I always keep the bottle trackside while I'm driving.

[Mike Patterson]

Lighter fluid works as well, and evaporates faster.