Parma Turbo upgrade
#26
Posted 02 September 2012 - 09:25 AM
#27
Posted 02 September 2012 - 12:05 PM
What to build? If I'm racing 16d motors do I really need a 30 band controller or will a 17 band be enough? I know, it's better to have more than not enough, and that brings me to my next question, what the meaning of "bands" in these controllers? Thanks for the help.
http://slotblog.net/...gh/#entry135945
#28
Posted 18 September 2012 - 07:50 AM
If you're thinking of upgrading, it's worth it!
Toadsucker Racing
#29
Posted 18 September 2012 - 08:32 AM
The Fleming Hinge !BTW: the hinged wiper arm is called a "Fleming Hinge" if I'm not mistaken....did that mod to HO controllers I had back in the 90's
I did this on one of my Parma controller's and it is smoooth as silk and was one of the best upgrad's I have done .
http://jbriggsk9.tripod.com/id34.html
"Drive it like you're in it!!!"
"If everything feels under control... you are not going fast enough!"
Some people are like Slinkies... they're really good for nothing... but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.
#30
Posted 16 October 2012 - 02:37 PM
I got my son a DiFalco 10-band on eBay (probably paid too much).
We race with Hawk 7 motors, mostly NASCAR 4" flexi chassis cars, but might try LMP with same motor & similar chassis as well as 1/32 GTP with the same motor.
#31
Posted 16 October 2012 - 07:29 PM
Is it possible to move the heat sink away from the handle?
I got my son a DiFalco 10-band on eBay (probably paid too much).
We race with Hawk 7 motors, mostly NASCAR 4" flexi chassis cars, but might try LMP with same motor & similar chassis as well as 1/32 GTP with the same motor.
With the DD273 kit, the heat sink is located near the track connections. In fact, I added two small aluminum hooks that loop over the wall of the track right above the connectors. The kit comes with a bolt, spacer, and fender washer to do basically the same thing, but I wasn't too thrilled with the fact that they mounted on the PC board. One overexuberant move and I could see me splitting the board in half.
Toadsucker Racing
#32
Posted 16 October 2012 - 09:51 PM
the DD-273 kit is to build a controller, right (or is it made for moving the heat sink?)
I got a 3rd Eye FET-1 controller for myself (my track has a deal on refurbished ones).
Unlike the bigger 3rd Eye boxes, it didn't have the aluminum channel to hang it on
the edge of the track - so I found an 8 foot section of it at Lowes for about $11.
It's sold as 3/4" plywood edge ( maybe for making tables or something?).
It works quite nicely - I think it's the same as the factory uses (3/4" wide x 1/2" deep).
I didn't like laying the box on the shelf created by the driver stations.
I put one on my home made brake & choke contoller I use with a Parma Turbo
(it has a blue LED and a voltmeter just like the $600 units )
I'll have to get a picture of it.
I put the volt meter after the choke so I can see how much I am reducing the
track voltage to (and is I put in zero choke I see the track voltage).
I still need to add a full throttle clicker (choke bypass) relay.
My wife uses the home made box, now that she lets me use the 3rd Eye controller.
#33
Posted 11 December 2017 - 05:11 PM
I just ordered the Difalco HD30 and am told all the Difalco's connect the same way? But I find this to be conflicting to the instructions received and the steps in this post?
Can someone confirm if this is correct or incorrect for a HD30?
1. Black from PCB connects to black wire on one of the black Brake Rheostat wires and both of them connect to Red (OEM wire); this red line that goes to Heatsink.
2. Other Black from rheostat goes to Left side wiper contact. <No other line connects to this terminal/contact.
3. Purple/White from PCB goes to Heatsink.
4. Right wiper contact wire that is a Black wire (OEM wire), goes to Heatsink. <No other line connects to this terminal/contact.
5. White wire from wiper arm goes to Heatsink. <No other line connects to this terminal/contact as is insulated.
6. Black wire (insulated from back of wiper arm from white on wiper contact) goes to Heatsink. <No other line connects to this terminal/contact as is insulated.
Attached are the images/instructions also that came with the kit. I just want to verify the above it correct?
Thank you.
Attached Files
#34
Posted 12 December 2017 - 11:30 AM
Hope this helps
Thank you. Question, where are your sensitivity wires going? Where are your brake wires going? I see one is going to the brake stop contact. Where are the others going?
Thank you.
#35
Posted 12 December 2017 - 04:31 PM
Yeah my heatsink looks nothing like that. I guess they all have different wiring then, hence why I am asking for help.
#36
Posted 21 December 2017 - 05:42 PM
Guess no one knows.
#37
Posted 21 December 2017 - 07:50 PM
There are at least two different configuration of heat sinks. but the wiring is electrically the same even though the parts layout is different.
I have trouble following your wiring description in your first post but it does not sound correct to me.
Not to hurt your feelings but I think you should get someone to assemble it for you or get someone to sit down with you and show you how it is done.
#38
Posted 21 December 2017 - 08:10 PM
Or take pictures of someone's & copy that.
#39
Posted 22 December 2017 - 10:53 AM
I also did a word description where each wire goes? I guess that is too confusing? Ok does someone have a picture? I don't know anyone that has this controller.
#40
Posted 23 January 2018 - 04:36 PM
#41
Posted 22 August 2018 - 01:45 PM
Ok got mine wired up and working with mods: http://slotblog.net/...sis-hd-30-mods/