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Parma Turbo upgrade


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#1 Tattoo_Paul

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Posted 26 August 2012 - 07:49 AM

I have a Parma Turbo controller that I would like to upgrade to an electronic controller. I was considering a Difalco DD254-HD30 with a DD256 resistor block (I race 16D only - for now).

How difficult is the conversion? Does the heatsink mount in any specific area of the cables? I like the designs such as the Difalco Genesis controllers where the heat sink is close to the track connections, so that it can be hung on the track wall rather than dangling off the controller itself.

Thank you for any insight.
Paul Lindewall
Toadsucker Racing




#2 Wizard Of Iz

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Posted 26 August 2012 - 08:21 AM

The Difalco upgrade is fairly easy. The written instructions are good, but it will help if you can borrow a built Difalco to use as a reference.

Jim is said to be close to releasing a DIY kit for the Genesis-style build.

Rollin Isbell
 


#3 Tattoo_Paul

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Posted 26 August 2012 - 08:39 AM

The Difalco upgrade is fairly easy. The written instructions are good, but it will help if you can borrow a built Difalco to use as a reference.

Jim is said to be close to releasing a DIY kit for the Genesis-style build.


Would you recommend waiting for the release of that kit? Is there a reason for mounting the heatsink close to the controller handle, or could it be located further away without affecting performance and operation?
Paul Lindewall
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#4 Wizard Of Iz

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Posted 26 August 2012 - 12:42 PM

I would wait.

Having the heat sink near the hook-up makes the controller a little more comfortable

Rollin Isbell
 


#5 Tattoo_Paul

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Posted 26 August 2012 - 01:34 PM

I would wait.

Having the heat sink near the hook-up makes the controller a little more comfortable


I tend to agree with you. I actually have a Genesis already. I was just looking to upgrade the Parma as a backup - or to let my nephew use it so he'll get hooked on slot racing, too!
Paul Lindewall
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#6 Tattoo_Paul

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Posted 26 August 2012 - 04:51 PM

Scott, PM sent.
Paul Lindewall
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#7 Mike Patterson

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Posted 26 August 2012 - 08:32 PM

If you decide to build a Difalco kit, I would STRONGLY recommend using Jim's frame, as opposed to modifying a Turbo frame. A lot less fiddling is involved.

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#8 Tattoo_Paul

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Posted 27 August 2012 - 05:17 AM

If you decide to build a Difalco kit, I would STRONGLY recommend using Jim's frame, as opposed to modifying a Turbo frame. A lot less fiddling is involved.


Interesting. The frames look identical. What differences are there?
Paul Lindewall
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#9 Mike Patterson

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Posted 27 August 2012 - 09:27 AM

Paul, a Turbo frame is aluminum, the Difalco appears to be circuit board material, whatever that is nowadays, and is much smaller. I built one of Jim's kits 5 years ago, and the asssembly is pretty straight forward. If you need a pic, I can post one. The only parts of the Turbo that you will use are the handles and the trigger. I just bought them new, and kept my Turbo as a backup/loaner.
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#10 Tattoo_Paul

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Posted 27 August 2012 - 11:19 AM

Well, I guess I'll have to find out the old-fashioned way. I'm pretty handy, and as long as there are no small parts to fly out (the ones too small for my old eyeballs to locate on the floor, anyway) I'll 'git er done'. :)
Paul Lindewall
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#11 urone

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Posted 27 August 2012 - 05:26 PM

Mike, would you post a pic of your Turbo upgrade I'd like to see it. Thanks!
Lorenzo Frietze

#12 Mike Patterson

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Posted 27 August 2012 - 09:28 PM

Lorenzo, my controller is not really a Turbo upgrade, it is a Difalco kit assembled by me. If you have ever seen a Difalco with the handles off, mine looks just like that. Jim's kits are VERY good. The instructions leave a little to be desired, as noted in post #2. I can post pics of the problem areas if you like.

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#13 Mark Crowley

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Posted 27 August 2012 - 09:31 PM

I emailed Jim D. last week about the DD242 DIY frame kit for a new build and he stated that the frame kit has been discontinued. I think all of his new modules will fit correctly on a Parma frame which may be why he is not sellin the frame anymore. I built a Genesis DD273 Pro Module on a Parma frame a while back and everything lined up beautiful. Here is a link to the build: http://www.slotcarta...ro-Module-Build I would think your DD254 build would be very similar.
Mark

#14 Tattoo_Paul

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Posted 28 August 2012 - 10:53 AM

Mark, that link is very helpful. My kit should arrive (hopefully) some time this week. Maybe I'll do a photo "how to" if it's significantly different.
Paul Lindewall
Toadsucker Racing

#15 John Streisguth

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Posted 28 August 2012 - 11:30 AM

Having done exacty this build, I highly recommend the ball bearing trigger kit if you have not gotten it already. Makes a HUGE difference.
"Whatever..."

#16 Mark Crowley

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Posted 28 August 2012 - 02:09 PM

John VW: I have been thinking about ordering the BB trigger kit for my road course controller. I ordered the $59 Drag module from my local track last week and they stated they couldn't get the DIY DD242 kit, but they still carried the 10 gauge wires. That is why I emailed Jim with the DIY frame availability question. Jim's reply stated "The DD242 is discontinued and was never intended for drag modules. If you want full power get the DD402 relay kit for the drags. You can use the DD904 if you just want nice wire but the relay will work better. The DD721 is the ball bearing kit and makes everything much smoother and removes all the trigger play in the Parma trigger."
Tattoo Paul: I assume you can install the DD254 you ordered on the Parma frame just like I did on my Genesis build using small steel angles. I can't find any current info online about your kit except where is says to buy the DIY 242 frame/wires. Unfortunately the Difalco web site is way out of date and doesn't show some of the latest modules or kits. Please post and let us know how your build goes and what is in the kit

#17 Mark Crowley

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Posted 28 August 2012 - 02:18 PM

Tattoo Paul:
I just noticed that there is a new Difalco Genesis HD30, ProBrake kit with the number DD276 for about $179. Is this the kit you purchased. If so it looks like it will install on a Parma frame exactly the same as my DD242 kit.
Mark

#18 John Streisguth

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Posted 28 August 2012 - 03:18 PM

I installed a BB trigger on a stock turbo I use for local flexi racing...big improvement there too!

Here are pics of my turbo conversion (they were taken before the BB trigger and also before Jim fixed a few problems). Make sure you use a floating wiper button!

Attached Images

  • controller 004.jpg
  • controller 005.jpg

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#19 urone

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Posted 28 August 2012 - 05:03 PM

Does the " floating wiper button " mean a hinged wiper arm? I'm not clear on what you mean can you explain. Thanks
Lorenzo Frietze

#20 John Streisguth

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Posted 28 August 2012 - 08:39 PM

When DiFalco worked on my controller to fix a problem with the brakes, he did a few things to improve the function, one being the floating wiper button. Instead of the button being solidly mounted in the arm (and in the pictures I posted, soldered in), he opened the hole slightly so the button would float and therefore lay flat on the board through the travel, and then soldered a small flexible wire to the button to maintan the continuity. This was not something pointed out in the installation instructions, but was an obvious little trick he does for better performance and less wear on the board. The controller has performed flawlessly since he did his magic on it, only needing the brake and full power contacts cleaned occaisionally.
Make sure you put a drop of braid juice on the wiper path every time you race, wiping off the excess, to keep it working smoothly. I have found that is a big key to it working well.
"Whatever..."

#21 John Streisguth

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Posted 28 August 2012 - 08:40 PM

BTW: the hinged wiper arm is called a "Fleming Hinge" if I'm not mistaken....did that mod to HO controllers I had back in the 90's
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#22 dalek

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Posted 28 August 2012 - 11:46 PM

Make sure you put a drop of braid juice on the wiper path every time you race, wiping off the excess, to keep it working smoothly. I have found that is a big key to it working well.


Not that it's a lot of trouble to wipe the juice off but I don't bother.

I have a 30-band Difalco and I put a drop of Voo Doo on the board at either end of the wiper path then pull the trigger full travel a few times. I do this maybe as often as every 15 minutes. Keeps the action silky smooth.
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#23 John Streisguth

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Posted 29 August 2012 - 07:06 AM

I agree Dale, keeps it smooth. I always get a reminder to do it if the action feels a little "gritty". A drop or two and it's good to go.

I pretty much just give it a wipe with one of my fingers (not the trigger finger! LOL), rather than a cloth.
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#24 dalek

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Posted 29 August 2012 - 10:35 AM

I always get a reminder to do it if the action feels a little "gritty". A drop or two and it's good to go.


Exactly, John!

I also have a Turbo controller that I rarely use but when I do I put Voo Doo on the wiper path every few minutes - when it feels "grittier" (compared to an electronic controller, it always feels "gritty"). If I was racing, I would absolutely juice it as often as every heat.

Using the Voo Doo juice allowed me to reduce the spring tension on the trigger so it's not as tiresome to use the Turbo controller and the wiper still reliably returns to the brake position when I release the trigger.

Besides juicing the controller wiper path, I use the juice regularly on my guide braids as the bottle suggests (keeps them shiny), so I always keep the bottle trackside while I'm driving.
Dale King
 
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#25 Mike Patterson

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Posted 29 August 2012 - 08:43 PM

Lighter fluid works as well, and evaporates faster.

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#26 urone

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Posted 02 September 2012 - 09:25 AM

What to build? If I'm racing 16d motors do I really need a 30 band controller or will a 17 band be enough? I know, it's better to have more than not enough, and that brings me to my next question, what the meaning of "bands" in these controllers? Thanks for the help.
Lorenzo Frietze

#27 Dan Ruddock

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Posted 02 September 2012 - 12:05 PM

What to build? If I'm racing 16d motors do I really need a 30 band controller or will a 17 band be enough? I know, it's better to have more than not enough, and that brings me to my next question, what the meaning of "bands" in these controllers? Thanks for the help.


http://slotblog.net/...gh/#entry135945
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#28 Tattoo_Paul

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Posted 18 September 2012 - 07:50 AM

Kit arrived. I had also ordered the ball bearing trigger upgrade, and a floating wiper button. The instructions were very good, and the build was easy. I tried it out the other day at the track, and it works just as well as my other Difalco.

If you're thinking of upgrading, it's worth it!
Paul Lindewall
Toadsucker Racing

#29 Joe Mig

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Posted 18 September 2012 - 08:32 AM

BTW: the hinged wiper arm is called a "Fleming Hinge" if I'm not mistaken....did that mod to HO controllers I had back in the 90's

The Fleming Hinge !
I did this on one of my Parma controller's and it is smoooth as silk and was one of the best upgrad's I have done .
http://jbriggsk9.tripod.com/id34.html
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#30 Mark 42

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Posted 16 October 2012 - 02:37 PM

Is it possible to move the heat sink away from the handle?

I got my son a DiFalco 10-band on eBay (probably paid too much).

We race with Hawk 7 motors, mostly NASCAR 4" flexi chassis cars, but might try LMP with same motor & similar chassis as well as 1/32 GTP with the same motor.
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#31 Tattoo_Paul

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Posted 16 October 2012 - 07:29 PM

Is it possible to move the heat sink away from the handle?

I got my son a DiFalco 10-band on eBay (probably paid too much).

We race with Hawk 7 motors, mostly NASCAR 4" flexi chassis cars, but might try LMP with same motor & similar chassis as well as 1/32 GTP with the same motor.


With the DD273 kit, the heat sink is located near the track connections. In fact, I added two small aluminum hooks that loop over the wall of the track right above the connectors. The kit comes with a bolt, spacer, and fender washer to do basically the same thing, but I wasn't too thrilled with the fact that they mounted on the PC board. One overexuberant move and I could see me splitting the board in half.
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#32 Mark 42

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Posted 16 October 2012 - 09:51 PM

But I already bought a Difalco controller with the big heat sink dangling off the cord -
the DD-273 kit is to build a controller, right (or is it made for moving the heat sink?)

I got a 3rd Eye FET-1 controller for myself (my track has a deal on refurbished ones).
Unlike the bigger 3rd Eye boxes, it didn't have the aluminum channel to hang it on
the edge of the track - so I found an 8 foot section of it at Lowes for about $11.
It's sold as 3/4" plywood edge ( maybe for making tables or something?).
It works quite nicely - I think it's the same as the factory uses (3/4" wide x 1/2" deep).

I didn't like laying the box on the shelf created by the driver stations.
I put one on my home made brake & choke contoller I use with a Parma Turbo
(it has a blue LED and a voltmeter just like the $600 units :laugh2: )

I'll have to get a picture of it.
I put the volt meter after the choke so I can see how much I am reducing the
track voltage to (and is I put in zero choke I see the track voltage).

I still need to add a full throttle clicker (choke bypass) relay.
My wife uses the home made box, now that she lets me use the 3rd Eye controller.
Mark Kanzler

#33 Slot-Racer

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Posted 11 December 2017 - 05:11 PM

I just ordered the Difalco HD30 and am told all the Difalco's connect the same way? But I find this to be conflicting to the instructions received and the steps in this post?

 

Can someone confirm if this is correct or incorrect for a HD30?

 

1. Black from PCB connects to black wire on one of the black Brake Rheostat wires and both of them connect to Red (OEM wire); this red line that goes to Heatsink.

2. Other Black from rheostat goes to Left side wiper contact. <No other line connects to this terminal/contact.

3. Purple/White from PCB goes to Heatsink.

4. Right wiper contact wire that is a Black wire (OEM wire), goes to Heatsink. <No other line connects to this terminal/contact.

5. White wire from wiper arm goes to Heatsink. <No other line connects to this terminal/contact as is insulated.

6. Black wire (insulated from back of wiper arm from white on wiper contact) goes to Heatsink. <No other line connects to this terminal/contact as is insulated.

 

Attached are the images/instructions also that came with the kit. I just want to verify the above it correct?

 

Thank you.

Attached Files


Mario Damis

#34 Slot-Racer

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Posted 12 December 2017 - 11:30 AM

Hope this helps

 

Thank you. Question, where are your sensitivity wires going? Where are your brake wires going? I see one is going to the brake stop contact. Where are the others going?

 

Thank you.


Mario Damis

#35 Slot-Racer

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Posted 12 December 2017 - 04:31 PM

Yeah my heatsink looks nothing like that. I guess they all have different wiring then, hence why I am asking for help.


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#36 Slot-Racer

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 05:42 PM

Guess no one knows.


Mario Damis

#37 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 07:50 PM

There are at least two different configuration of heat sinks. but the wiring is electrically the same even though the parts layout is different.

I have trouble following your wiring description in your first post but it does not sound correct to me.

 

Not to hurt your feelings but I think you should get someone to assemble it for you or get  someone to sit down with you and show you how it is done.


Eddie Fleming

#38 Rob Voska

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Posted 21 December 2017 - 08:10 PM

Or take pictures of someone's & copy that.



#39 Slot-Racer

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Posted 22 December 2017 - 10:53 AM

I also did a word description where each wire goes? I guess that is too confusing? Ok does someone have a picture? I don't know anyone that has this controller. 


Mario Damis

#40 Slot-Racer

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Posted 23 January 2018 - 04:36 PM

Ok since I have no replies can anyone advise with a digital meter what values I should be getting with no power connected if a meter is connected to the white/black/red lines?
Mario Damis





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