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#576 Josh Crutchfield

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Posted 03 February 2009 - 02:12 PM

The following will be posted today on the website

After careful review, the IRRA BOD has determined that the following announcement on a rule change is in the best interests of those participating in racing under IRRA rules.

Therefore, effective Immediately:

No motor or tire changes will be allowed during a race. For those races where there is a move-up from one main to another, motors and tires can be changed and the car will go through a full tech inspection. As a reminder, those racers making a move-up from one main to another and not choosing to change a motor or tires will still be subject to tech inspection for legal tire diameter and clearance.

The previous rule allowing motor changes under the "green" is no longer allowed.

(Posted for the IRRA Board by Joe Neumeister)


Not trying to be a richard but why? I have never seen or heard of this being a problem.
I think it's only fair to be able to change a tire with a bent rim or a motor that goes south during a race.
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#577 Rick

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Posted 03 February 2009 - 02:15 PM

The following will be posted today on the website

After careful review, the IRRA BOD has determined that the following announcement on a rule change is in the best interests of those participating in racing under IRRA rules.

Therefore, effective Immediately:

No motor or tire changes will be allowed during a race. For those races where there is a move-up from one main to another, motors and tires can be changed and the car will go through a full tech inspection. As a reminder, those racers making a move-up from one main to another and not choosing to change a motor or tires will still be subject to tech inspection for legal tire diameter and clearance.

The previous rule allowing motor changes under the "green" is no longer allowed.

(Posted for the IRRA Board by Joe Neumeister)


What if you really trash an aluminum hub in the race? One that the hub tool can't repair?

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#578 John Streisguth

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Posted 03 February 2009 - 07:39 PM

I noticed that there is nothing in the general rules that address damage that may be caused to a car by a corner marshall, such as accidently smashing a car with their hand. Would that just be considered a "racing incident" or would time be given to repair this damage? Is thtis something that is lef to the discretion of the race director and/or local group putting on the race? And would the marhsall have the responability to say that he did cause the damage or could the racer make the call on this?
Coming from HO racing, this was usually spelled out in the rules, and it is one of the few stoppages allowed.
Thanks!
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#579 Josh Crutchfield

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 12:05 PM

Why does the IRRA feel that the rules needed to be changed to no tire and motor changes during a race?
The problem is you will have a lot of people traveling long distances to attend the R4 and if a rim is bent or broke in the first heat they are done. Doesn't seem like a fair shake to me. I feel a better solution would be marking the rims and motors with paint or fingernail polish to ensure they are not changed. In the case that a rim is bent are broken, the racer can change it and after the race show the tech director the damaged wheel.

Josh

#580 Noose

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 03:05 PM

The board is reviewing all questions and answers will be posted as they always are. Thanks for your patience.

Joe "Noose" Neumeister
Sometimes known as a serial despoiler of the clear purity of virgin Lexan bodies. Lexan is my canvas!
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#581 Chris Barnes

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Posted 05 February 2009 - 08:19 AM

I think the IRRA made the right move on each of the decisions. If I stand back and look at the other side of the rule, they now prevent anyone from putting on tires that will not pass tech, too low and may improve the handling of the car. In changing a motor during a race, the same thing could be true, since there is no tech during the race. The alternative is to have a mid-race tech (or more than one) to ensure everyone is legal. That might require the changing of tires between heats to make sure you have enough clearance- the need of more than one set of tires in a race. It also increases the race length, which everyone seems to be worried about. Plastic hubs are also available and widely used in some areas.

To me, if I have to change a motor during the race, I won't get complete in the two minutes between heats, and I am going to lose positions anyway. Just prepare for the potential problems to occur as best you can and enjoy the racing. From a heart bypass veteran, it is just not worth the extra worry during the race.

#582 John Streisguth

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Posted 05 February 2009 - 12:41 PM

For me, one of the draws to the retro racing was the limitation on motors. If everyone had carte blanche to change motors, I doubt I would have bothered. In the future if it looks like the rule needs to be modified so that a motor can be changed under certain circumstances, I'm sure that could be considered. But really, how many motors are being burned up? If certain locales have a big problem with that maybe they need to address the track power or how the cars are being geared. I would rather buy a new $10 motor every other race, if I know I have a level playing field.
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#583 Dominator

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Posted 25 February 2009 - 09:52 PM

About a month ago on post 89 in the chassis gallery I posted a new chassis. While the tongue does not float it does move with the center section so as such would be classified as an Iso chassis correct? The pans have some side to side movement in the front but none in the rear. The center section has some movement side to side but none up and down. The nose is "hung" off the center section and front of the pans. Give the pictures, weight aside, this design would be currently legal under IRRA rules correct?

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#584 Chris Barnes

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Posted 26 February 2009 - 08:50 AM

In comparison to the chassis above, the chassis in post #90 looks to have a similar type "drop arm?". Is this what is considered an Iso chassis, where the guide tongue is not connected in the front of the chassis?

#585 Josh Crutchfield

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 03:04 PM

Has the IRRA considered limiting the wheel base in the F1 and Can-Am classes?

Thanks,

Josh

#586 Noose

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 03:14 PM

Hi Josh,

All of the classes have wheelbase rules.

F1 has limits as stated in the rules:

Minimum Wheelbase: 3.875” (98.43mm), Maximum Wheelbase: 4.250” (107.95mm).

For Can-Am, GTC, JK Spec, and Retro Anglewinder the rules state:
The wheels shall be located in relation to the wheel arches in the body.

For Retro Stock Car the rules state:
4.50" minimum and wheels shall be located in relation to the wheel arches.

Joe "Noose" Neumeister
Sometimes known as a serial despoiler of the clear purity of virgin Lexan bodies. Lexan is my canvas!
Noose Custom Painting - Since 1967
Chairman - IRRA® Body Committee - Roving IRRA® Tech Dude - "EVIL BUCKS Painter"
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The only thing bad about Retro is admitting that you remember doing it originally.


#587 tonyp

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 03:19 PM

LOL. I just measured my F1, I just make it. I better start reading the rules...

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#588 Noose

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 03:21 PM

Harry better measure his Jr. F1.

Joe "Noose" Neumeister
Sometimes known as a serial despoiler of the clear purity of virgin Lexan bodies. Lexan is my canvas!
Noose Custom Painting - Since 1967
Chairman - IRRA® Body Committee - Roving IRRA® Tech Dude - "EVIL BUCKS Painter"
"Team Evil Bucks" Racer - 2016 Caribbean Retro Overall Champion
The only thing bad about Retro is admitting that you remember doing it originally.


#589 tonyp

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 03:27 PM

He is going to remove the nose piece, add 1/8" tubing in the rail slots and stretch it out to 4". Besides it was so short it was undriveable.

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#590 Arne Saknussem

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Posted 01 May 2009 - 01:33 PM

I just squinted through the first 15 pages of questions and answers but, with my reading glasses off being reground, I'm getting a severe headache. :dash2: Consequently, please forgive me for posing a question that may have been covered in the 15 subsequent pages that I haven't the stamina to read through.

Q: Is tie wire allowed at solder joints?

Thank you.

Pete Varlan

60 years a slot racer


#591 gascarnut

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Posted 01 May 2009 - 01:48 PM

Of course.

Just remember that the tie wire is considered part of the frame, so if it interferes with the clearances or the widths or any other part of the rules the car might not be legal.
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#592 Arne Saknussem

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Posted 02 May 2009 - 01:42 PM

Just remember that the tie wire is considered part of the frame, so if it interferes with the clearances or the widths or any other part of the rules the car might not be legal.

Of course!

I didn't see any prohibition (or mention) of tie wire but, in view of some other items that I did manage to read, I thought a question prudent.

Thanks!

Pete Varlan

60 years a slot racer


#593 MantaRay

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Posted 28 May 2009 - 10:19 AM

Not sure if this is the correct forum , but here goes.

The new rule outlawing Foil Sealed Pro Slot motors after Sept 01, 2009 is great in principle.

This is the part that I do not agree with

"Any new motors with the "foil" seals that are still in unopened Pro Slot packaging may be returned directly to Pro Slot for verification and installation of the new white "tamperproof type" seal. To reiterate, Pro Slot motors eligible to be resealed must be new, in original Pro Slot packaging, and must also be accompanied by return postage"

Other than old stock that is at a Distributor or Hanging on a Track wall is probably going to have been opened and put on a power supply. My thought is that if the motor/s have not had the shafts cut they should be resealed for a nominal cost along with the shipping.

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#594 Dan Myers

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Posted 12 June 2009 - 08:04 PM

Kind of a stupid question here is there a way to tell which arm is in the motor. I just bought another Can Am/JK spec style car off of the forbidden four letter word and it has a proslot motor in it and was wondering if there is a way to know if its a good American arm or if it has the Chinese arm cause it has the old style seal on it, but if its a Chinese arm I'm not gonna bother having it rebuilt I'll just run the snot out of it and toss it. Thanks in advance.
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#595 Mike Patterson

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Posted 12 June 2009 - 08:37 PM

Kind of a stupid question here is there a way to tell which arm is in the motor. I just bought another Can Am/JK spec style car off of the forbidden four letter word and it has a proslot motor in it and was wondering if there is a way to know if its a good American arm or if it has the Chinese arm cause it has the old style seal on it, but if its a Chinese arm I'm not gonna bother having it rebuilt I'll just run the snot out of it and toss it. Thanks in advance.


Don,

If the arm has the thick green coating like 16Ds, it's Chinese. And don't pitch it, just buy a Puppy Dog arm and install it.

I am not a doctor, but I played one as a child with the girl next door.


#596 Dan Myers

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Posted 12 June 2009 - 08:48 PM

Don,

If the arm has the thick green coating like 16Ds, it's Chinese. And don't pitch it, just buy a Puppy Dog arm and install it.



So if its yellow and the windings are shinny its and American arm?
Dan "Cable Guy" Myers II

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#597 Noose

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Posted 12 June 2009 - 09:15 PM

Yes. The Chinese Arm has the "green stuff" through a lot of the balance marks and the American Arm will have a coating on the laminates.

Joe "Noose" Neumeister
Sometimes known as a serial despoiler of the clear purity of virgin Lexan bodies. Lexan is my canvas!
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The only thing bad about Retro is admitting that you remember doing it originally.


#598 Dan Myers

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Posted 12 June 2009 - 09:18 PM

Yes. The Chinese Arm has the "green stuff" through a lot of the balance marks and the American Arm will have a coating on the laminates.



OOoooo. :wub: I feel kinda bad now. I only paid $67 for the whole car. Oh well one less motor I need to purchase for the Sano. :)
Dan "Cable Guy" Myers II

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#599 DirtyHairy

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Posted 23 July 2009 - 12:42 PM

i couldnt post this in the questions thread and i didnt see that anyone else had asked so i assumed this was the place to ask. i was flipping through the rules as i was building a stock car and noticed the front and rear clearance for the stock car and anglewinder were .050 compared to all the other classes being .015 for the front and .050 for the rear. what was the reason for this??
Justin Kirkendall
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#600 Noose

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Posted 23 July 2009 - 01:33 PM

Since these two classes were developed new as compared to others where other regions were running them and there was not the need to make them "inclusive", they were developed after the original larger clearance rules we ran back in the day. .050 was chosen as it was already a specification in use for the rear, there were tech tools to measure it and many already had jig wheels to use to obtain the clearance when building a frame.

D3's original clearance rules of .015 in the front were adopted for the other classes again to make them inclusive. If we were to do it from the beginning all over again I believe the clearance would be .050 in the front as well for those classes. Other than the fact larger clearances were run in the period this class is based on, regionally those running IRRA rules run on a variety of tracks where the track owners would prefer the higher front clearance.

Joe "Noose" Neumeister
Sometimes known as a serial despoiler of the clear purity of virgin Lexan bodies. Lexan is my canvas!
Noose Custom Painting - Since 1967
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"Team Evil Bucks" Racer - 2016 Caribbean Retro Overall Champion
The only thing bad about Retro is admitting that you remember doing it originally.






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