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Total Performance – Shelby King Cobra Can-Am


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#1 dc-65x

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Posted 15 December 2014 - 05:39 PM

This is my third car built for the Total Performance theme.

TotalPerformancePost-6.jpg

Below is a link explaining this theme:

Total Performance Era

It’s another Cobra but this time it’s the super swoopy Shelby King Cobra CanAm:
 
MCS4-681.jpg
 
 
MCS4-682.jpg
 

shelby-king-cobra.gif
 

4650684256_dbff8f71f5_z.jpg
 

4650065939_2ee2c3379f_z.jpg
 

kingcobra-3.jpg
 

Hmmmmmm......that picture above is pretty small.  :wacko2:   Maybe this time I should build a smaller car too? :unknw:  How about this 1/32 scale Lancer body :crazy:
 

SidewinderNemesis-3.jpg
 

SidewinderNemesis-2.jpg
 

SidewinderNemesis-29.jpg
 

She's pretty swoopy!
 

SidewinderNemesis-1.jpg

I've got a Lancer interior for it but no drivers head so I'll be using a 1/32 Cox piece:

SidewinderNemesis-27.jpg

 

For the chassis I'm going to rebuild a chassis I built many moons ago, the Charles Cressi "Sidewinder Nemesis". Here's a link to the Jose Rodriguez, Jr. Car Model Magazine construction article and my soon to be rebuilt original chassis:

 

The Sidewinder Nemesis

 

Chassis time is next...........

 


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#2 Matt Sheldon

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Posted 15 December 2014 - 07:18 PM

Really cool subject Rick and I really like the number font on the 1:1 version.


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#3 dc-65x

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Posted 15 December 2014 - 07:39 PM

Hi Matt,

 

Those are cool numbers. I built a 1/24 scale version with some numbers that are similar (kinda....sorta...) :) :

 

KingCobra-4.jpg

 

Pattos Place has decals for the 55 prototype. Not sure what I'm going to do yet. I've been thinking of a tribute to Dave MacDonald and his1963 Times Grand Prix winning Cooper Cobra:

 

MartinKingCobrasZerexA.jpg

 

I found this picture of a blue car:

 

66rmfordauction2010.jpg

 

Looks kind of neat in blue.......we'll see. :D


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#4 SlotStox#53

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 12:11 AM

Totally gorgeous 1:1 car & equally sweet Lancer shell :D

Look forward to seeing this one come together Rick :good:

#5 dc-65x

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 11:53 AM

Here's the original construction atricle:

 

SidewinderNemesisCM12-68pg1.jpg

 

SidewinderNemesisCM12-68pg2.jpg

 

This is the chassis I rebuilt. I built it long ago, without a jig. It was out of square (1/16"+ wheelbase difference side to side  :shok: )  and the pan didn't hang evenly below the center section so it was twisted (left rear of the pan hanging all the way down and the right rear all the way up :dash2: ):

 

SidewinderNemesis-009.jpg

 

Also, the body mount system really didn't support the short body sides "Korrectly". Below, it's being rebuilt (in my Rick's Jig):

 

SidewinderNemesis-21.jpg

 

 

Here are the rebuilt sections ready for assembly:

 

SidewinderNemesis-22.jpg

 

And all assembled:

 

SidewinderNemesis-23.jpg

 

SidewinderNemesis-25.jpg

 

SidewinderNemesis-24.jpg

 

SidewinderNemesis-26.jpg

 

Next up, we need a motor........


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#6 NY Nick

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 01:44 PM

Wow that is nice.


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#7 Matt Sheldon

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 01:56 PM

Dayyyyummmm!

 

I still like the yellow if you are collecting opinions lol.

 

You never let us down Rick!


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#8 dc-65x

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 02:12 PM

Thanks Guys! :)

 

 

I still like the yellow if you are collecting opinions lol.

 

Yes I'd like opinions as I'm waffling between the yellow #55 prototype and a metallic blue #98 tribute to Dave MacDonald. :unknw:

 

Coincidentally, Rodney just emailed me his latest project and it looks pretty neat:

 

20141215_201443.jpg


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#9 SlotStox#53

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 02:56 PM

That thing looks bullet proof & the weight of a Sherman tank :laugh2: beautifully put together & build plans...

Should stay in the slot rather well :D

#10 dc-65x

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 04:11 PM

 

..........& the weight of a Sherman tank :laugh2:

 

Yup, the chassis is almost 3 ounces (84g) of "road hugging weight"! :shok:


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#11 SlotStox#53

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Posted 16 December 2014 - 07:30 PM

Wow! With all that weight it's a good excuse to use a vintage powerhouse :D

#12 dc-65x

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Posted 17 December 2014 - 01:45 PM

To power this baby, I was inspired by a picture of one of Jose Rodriguez, Jr's original cars:

 

1-32JoseRodriguezMurachassis.jpg

 

It looks to be a Mura Magnum 880 based on the "68 Mabuchi". I remembered I had a couple of well used Mura "Short Stack Magnum" silver wire arms and a can with a Mura sticker. So the restoration began.

 

The can got a set of Versatec magnets and a "Semi-can" shim. The Mabuchi endbell got it's brush holders soldered to it's brush hoods:

 

SidewinderNemesis-17.jpg

 

That was the easy part. The armatures were in much worse shape than I thought:

 

before.jpg

 

I lost the comm on this one before it cleaned up. Here it is cleaned up as best I could:

 

after.jpg

 

The next one had, I guess, "thrown" the solder holding the wires to the comm but the wires were still in place. You could slide the wires up and down on the comm tabs. The arm was "dead":

 

soldered-1.jpg

 

I resoldered the wires, cleaned and polished everything and turned the comm as much as I dare:

 

soldered-2.jpg

 

It read .2 ohms on each pole so it went into the setup:

 

SidewinderNemesis-18.jpg

 

Brass spring post protectors, shunted brushes, my Teflon "invisible" spring insulation, and a "Magnum 88" sticker finished it off.....and it even runs!

 

SidewinderNemesis-19.jpg

 

For how long it will run is another question. :shok: :D But at least I can see a real vintage Mura rewind, as Rodney would say, "move again". :dance3:

 

Time to assemble this little beastie.......


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#13 Tex

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Posted 17 December 2014 - 02:17 PM

Rock on, Rick!


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#14 slotbaker

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Posted 17 December 2014 - 03:10 PM

Nice.

 

Retro and bling...

  :good:


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#15 dc-65x

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Posted 17 December 2014 - 07:09 PM

Okie Dokie.......

 

Here's Jose's original car:

 

1-32JoseRodriguezFerrari365P3chassis.jpg

 

Mabuchi rewind, Cox Guide, Weldon crown gear set screw wheels and grey tires.........

 

1-32JoseRodriguezFerrari365P3.jpg

 

...........with blackened sidewalls.

 

I rounded up Russkit front wheels and tires, "mystery" rear wheels and Martex grey donuts:

 

SidewinderNemesis-28.jpg

 

Here they are "glued, trued and tattooed" with Monogram vintage wheel inserts:

 

SidewinderNemesis-30.jpg

 

I also fixed up some Alpha Piranha rears to the same size as the greys (.812" diameter, .500" wide rubber and .585" overall wheel width):

 

SidewinderNemesis-34.jpg

 

Here's my "little guy" all built up (modern black rubber in this picture):

 

SidewinderNemesis-35.jpg

 

SidewinderNemesis-31.jpg

 

SidewinderNemesis-16.jpg

 

This thing is ballistic! It's crazy fast but has a hair trigger even with an 8 tooth pinion. Maybe I should put a 9T on it. :shok:

 

SidewinderNemesis-32.jpg

 

With the grey tires it's also a bit loose and lights the tires up coming off the corners. With the modern blacks it's got plenty of bite and handles well. But it almost seems like it wants to lift out of the slot and take off down the main straight!

 

SidewinderNemesis-33.jpg

 

This car would probably turn a faster overall lap time with a bit less motor...........nah.......after all, it's a KING COBRA! :laugh2: :crazy:


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#16 SlotStox#53

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Posted 17 December 2014 - 07:43 PM

That looks just right Rick! Sounds like just the right level of performance :D Measured at the "insane" level :sun_bespectacled:

 

Would keep it in there, sounds like the perfect scale representation of the King Cobra ,especially watching those videos of that one hanging the rear end out round the corners  :dance3:

 

Downloaded the build article and your pictures for a future build, even got a 27/28 double wind silver arm somewhere...



#17 Hermit #1

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Posted 18 December 2014 - 12:38 AM

<SNIP>

This thing is ballistic! It's crazy fast but has a hair trigger even with an 8 tooth pinion. Maybe I should put a 9T on it. :shok:
<SNIP>

No, you should try it with a 7-T pinion instead of a 9-T ... remember electric motors make max torque at stall speed, so by having the motor run at higher RPM in the turns (lower torque), you'll exit smoother and be less likely to light up your tires.


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#18 dc-65x

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Posted 18 December 2014 - 01:21 AM

 

No, you should try it with a 7-T pinion..........

 

Interesting Dave. The "old school" wisdom I've read is to gear the car with more teeth on the pinion to make it "softer" to drive. :unknw:

 

This car is anything but "soft" to drive! :laugh2: Two screws and a gear puller and the pinion is off so I should give it a try. :)

 

Stay tuned to this station...........


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#19 Pablo

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Posted 18 December 2014 - 01:59 AM

Dave is right on the money on gearing theory (again), Rick, read my Batmobile thread posts # 110,116,118,119, and 120. It sure seemed like "the wrong way to go" in my way of thinking, and I was wrong. I know it sounds counter-intuitive to give more acceleration to a car that already accelerates violently, but Greg Gilbert just winked at me and said in a low voice, "Pablo, just try it". I went down a tooth on the pinion and everything smoothed right out.


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#20 Noose

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Posted 18 December 2014 - 11:24 AM

We found that too on Stock Cars out here on the Kings.  Smoothed them out considerably.


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#21 dc-65x

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Posted 18 December 2014 - 11:32 AM

 

I know it sounds counter-intuitive..........

 

It really does but that's what's so great about sharing info here. My wife calls it "collective wisdom" and I agree. I will give a 7T a try.

 

Thanks guys! :)


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#22 Hermit #1

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Posted 18 December 2014 - 12:29 PM

<SNIP> I know it sounds counter-intuitive to give more acceleration to a car that already accelerates violently, <SNIP>

What's really happening is moving the motor's RPM operating range away from its torque peak, thus softening its response. 

Rick, back in the day when rewinds similar to yours were contemporary, almost everyone ran 7/34 gears on King tracks.  My home track at the time was not a high-speed track, but a custom job with lots of slow tight corners and a no-punch bank.  The favorite arm then was the Lenz 27/28 with that infamous Mura green bubble gum insulation.  With a heavy motor setup from the day, real traction was lacking and it was easy to have burnouts all the way up the main chute.

Then someone came out with a good quality 6-T pinion, and I bought one to experiment.  At first I played with 6/34 gearing - the car was much smoother but the motor peaked out well before the bank.  But 6/32 filled the bill perfectly, and that's what I used for local racing until Faas gears first came out.  The car had competitive straightaway speed, and tore my competitors up on the twisty backside of that track.

I didn't know the theory back then, but when I first heard the "max torque at stall speed" concept, I had a "Eureka!" moment that's stayed with me ever since.  So much that I had observed, but didn't really understand, became crystal clear.

Good luck with your experiments ... cheers!  :)


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#23 Gator Bob

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Posted 18 December 2014 - 12:42 PM

At .812" you can run a 28-29 crown, At .825" maybe a 30.

 

ARP makes a really good 6 tooth pinion. But ... they don't look the period.

 

So ... maybe a 6/28 and a pair of treated tires would help settle it in. 

 

I've run 6/29 at .820" on my local short track in retro stock car. It sure keeps the revs up. :D


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#24 dc-65x

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Posted 18 December 2014 - 05:13 PM

OK, I installed a 7T pinion to go along with the existing 30T crown gear. I tested the car with both the vintage grey tires and modern Alpha Piranha's. My impression is that it is absolutely not worse with the 7T. The more I drove it the more I felt it was better than before. Better meaning it was easier to control coming off the corners.

 

The 7T pinion stays.

 

Thanks guys :thank_you2:


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#25 Pablo

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Posted 18 December 2014 - 08:47 PM

:clapping:


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#26 Gator Bob

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Posted 18 December 2014 - 10:54 PM

At .812" you can run a 28-29 crown, At .825" maybe a 30.

 

ARP makes a really good 6 tooth pinion. But ... they don't look the period.

 

So ... maybe a 6/28 and a pair of treated tires would help settle it in. 

 

I've run 6/29 at .820" on my local short track in retro stock car. It sure keeps the revs up. :D

 

A PM 'said' ... I was un-informed about the perceived vintage appearance of the ARP 6T straight pinions.

 

Fact is: The 6T ARP straight cut pinyouns look period correct.

 

Correct-o-Type was all dried up, sorry for the cross outs, ... Pablo. :laugh2:


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#27 Gator Bob

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Posted 18 December 2014 - 11:08 PM

Good news on better/easier Captain Rick. It sure is a lil' sweetie.  

 

It must be 'great fun' to be able to test and drive without leaving home.


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#28 Pablo

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Posted 19 December 2014 - 09:55 AM

"At .812" you can run a 28-29 crown, At .825" maybe a 30."

This should stay, Bob, because it's true.

ARP makes a 6T straight steel pinion, and to say it "doesn't look the period" struck a Pablo nerve, since I'm building a Korrect car right now that may use one.

Bob, don't ask what it is, because I won't answer :)  No offense


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#29 dc-65x

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Posted 19 December 2014 - 12:41 PM

 

It must be 'great fun' to be able to test and drive without leaving home.

 

It's really helpful and fun to have a "mini" commercial quality track right behind my workbench. I do, however, REALLY miss the interaction I used to have with Rodney and the guys at Eddie's Slot Car World.

 

 

I still like the yellow if you are collecting opinions lol.

 

Yellow it's going to be. This little missile should be easier to see in a bright color. Maybe I won't miss my braking points if it's bright yellow! :crazy:


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#30 Hermit #1

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Posted 19 December 2014 - 01:02 PM

<SNIP>

 

The 7T pinion stays.

 

Thanks guys :thank_you2:

Glad it worked for you - I feel vindicated now... :D


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#31 Régis4446

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Posted 21 December 2014 - 09:05 AM

Perfect work, thank you for sharing.

it's your cool this frame

sidewindernemesis...68pg2-1--49207be.jpg

sidewindernemesis-22-1--49207ce.jpg
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#32 dc-65x

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Posted 19 January 2015 - 10:40 PM

It's finally painted! :shok:  I have a problem once I get to the painting and detailing part of the build.  :crazy:   But I do'd it. Testors flat yellow airbrushed, backed with Testors rattle can flat white:

 

1001.jpg

 

This car is really going to get finished....... :dance3:

 

I should add that the Lancer King Cobra body painted with enamel is vintage butyrate not a modern Lexan repop. Lexan and enamel don't seem to get along. :crazy:


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#33 Pablo

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Posted 20 January 2015 - 09:30 AM

Sweeet, the paint really pops !!!  :good:


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#34 dc-65x

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Posted 20 January 2015 - 01:57 PM

Thanks Pablo. :)

 

There are lots of vents and scoops to paint flat black.....should make the body look less like a banana! :crazy:


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#35 dc-65x

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Posted 07 March 2015 - 09:14 PM

The decals showed up from Patto's Place:

 

Sidewinder%20Nemesis-%2036.jpg

 

I gave them a coat of Testors Clear Gloss so here we go..................


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#36 SlotStox#53

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Posted 07 March 2015 - 09:29 PM

Nice! They're gonna finish off that color/body beautifully :D

Keep looking at all that brass on that cool chassis and thinking *I've gotta build one ......one day* :laugh2:


So many ideas and projects, so little time! Plus finding the parts!

Is that a Russkit motor bracket Rick?

#37 dc-65x

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Posted 08 March 2015 - 10:42 AM

Thanks Paul. Yup, that's the venerable Russkit bracket alright. :victory:


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#38 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 08 March 2015 - 08:37 PM

FYI.  The earlier blue USRRC King cobra as modeled by Monogram is a Cooper Monaco chassis and bodywork.  The yellow beast 'may' have shared some chassis parts, but the body was rather different.  When I saw the original cars at the Meadowdale (IL) Race , I modeled my Mongram kit to the 'as raced' cars with different ducts and spoilers.  I saw the yellow beast at the Road America Vintage races a few years ago and the mechanic was telling a tale about how they made the nose so low using a front suspension design similar to the Cheetah, which also made it as hard to drive as the cheetah.


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#39 dc-65x

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Posted 08 March 2015 - 09:30 PM

Well here's my tribute to her in 1/32 scale Larry:

 

1%20001.jpg

 

1%20002.jpg

 

She's low and swoopy for sure:

 

1%20006.jpg

 

Here's the view I wish she could have shown the competition.....her behind with big honk'n pipes!

 

1%20005.jpg

 

Powered by a massive V8......

 

1%20004.jpg

 

.....keeping driver Jerry Titus plenty busy! Notice the transverse front shock-spring that proved troublesome on the prototype.

 

1%20007.jpg

 

Nice car those guys in the day came up with. Nice body and interior by Lancer. I'm glad I finally finished it and can "see it move".

 

Onward...........


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#40 SlotStox#53

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Posted 08 March 2015 - 09:57 PM

:heart: That came out great & can imagine the yellow blur as it flies round your track :D

Another one done Rick !

#41 Tim Wilkins

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Posted 08 March 2015 - 10:07 PM

Fantastic build!  I know from experience even those gray sponge tires are hard to find.


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#42 dc-65x

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Posted 09 March 2015 - 10:37 AM

Thanks guys. I think she turned out to be a little beauty too!

 

Here's a bottom view I forgot to post that shows everything stuffed into that little 1/32 scale space:

 

1%20010.jpg

 

Nice design the boys came up with in the day!

 

Onward........


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#43 Bill from NH

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Posted 09 March 2015 - 12:02 PM

Beautiful car Rick! You state enamels work well on butyrate, yet enamels & lexan doesn't mix. What has been your experience using enamels on PETG? I have a few Tom Andersen bodies & others from Larry Shephard, all pulled in PETG.


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#44 Lone Wolf

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Posted 09 March 2015 - 12:55 PM

What can one say? Just incredible from every angle.

 

Can you tell me about the intakes and how they were done? They look very uniform which very hard to accomplish. 


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#45 dc-65x

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Posted 09 March 2015 - 01:32 PM

Can you tell me about the intakes and how they were done?

 
Hi Joe,
 
This is how I make them:
 

Next I wanted to make up some velocity stacks out of aluminum tube. Here's what I used to make them:

FlyWeightGPCar014.jpg

I put a short length of 1/8" tube in a hand drill and squared up the end. Then I put a drop of oil on the end of a center punch and pushed it into the tube with the drill running slowly. This will flare the end of the tube:

FlyWeightGPCar013.jpg

This is what you end up with after a little polishing with 600 grit sandpaper:

FlyWeightGPCar012.jpg

To drill out the body for the stacks I started the hole by twisting a No.11 X-Acto blade. Then I finished them with a taper pin reamer. It really leaves a nice clean hole:

FlyWeightGPCar010.jpg


FlyWeightGPCar6.jpg

Onward.


I'm very bored with making them nowadays especially on 12 cylinder engines!!!!. I've made what seems like a zillion of them and now I buy them pre-made off of eBay!   :shok:  :laugh2:   That's where the stacks shown on the King Cobra came from. :D
 

What has been your experience using enamels on PETG?

 
Hey Bill,
 
I've done a few PETG bodies with Testors enamel and they turn out great....I think:
 
Lotus19Special178.jpg
 
FlyWeightGPCar3.jpg
 
I do sand the inside of the bodies to give the paint something to bite into. I also wash the body out with Dawn to get rid of any "greasy fat of hand". Also, I'm not racing these and making wall shots at every turn. The Parma stuff would no doubt be better for that.


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#46 Lone Wolf

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Posted 09 March 2015 - 02:46 PM

Thanks for the info. Great thinking on your part.

 

That tool selection looks like something out of Marathon Man :laugh2:

 

Nice tip on the reamer as a drill bit does not tend to make a clean hole.

 

Are you purchasing the tubes that are made for model kits?


Joe Lupo


#47 dc-65x

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Posted 09 March 2015 - 02:51 PM

Here's one source:

 

VELOCITY STACKS IN MODELS & KITS

 

 

That tool selection looks like something out of Marathon Man :laugh2:

 

Now you know why I'm buying them! I know I can make them but I'd rather be soldering :dance3:


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#48 Bill from NH

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Posted 09 March 2015 - 05:46 PM

Rick, thanks for your insight into painting PETG with enamels. When I last bought Testors enamel, it cost a dime per bottle. Fortunately, I've got a good supply of acrylics on-hand. Some of the static model car builders I read about are using acrylic craft & hobby paints for airbrushing. :)


Bill Fernald

 

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