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PS4002FK quality control issues


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#51 John C Martin

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Posted 22 February 2016 - 09:43 PM

Three races and three seals. LOL...

Just joking... just joking... LOL.




#52 Mr. GoFast

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Posted 22 February 2016 - 09:52 PM

This is a JK Hawk motor we are talking about, JC, it has no seals on it.
 
I think the problem here is that you're not the world record holder!!!
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#53 Wizard16

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Posted 22 February 2016 - 09:58 PM

Mike, how does one align the bushing before soldering? Thanks


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#54 Cheater

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Posted 22 February 2016 - 10:03 PM

Play nice, boys...


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Gregory Wells

Never forget that first place goes to the racer with the MOST laps, not the racer with the FASTEST lap


#55 Mr. GoFast

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Posted 22 February 2016 - 10:08 PM

I will, Cheater. I will just take it up with him on Thursday night at The Track!! LOL.
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#56 Zippity

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Posted 22 February 2016 - 11:35 PM

Mike, how does one align the bushing before soldering? Thanks

 
I hope they are not that sloppy to start with. :)

#57 MSwiss

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Posted 22 February 2016 - 11:55 PM

Mike, how does one align the bushing before soldering? Thanks


Not sure.

I've never soldered a bushing on one, nor have I tried to realign the bushings on one where it was misaligned.

Mike Swiss
 
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#58 John C Martin

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Posted 23 February 2016 - 03:33 AM

This is a JK Hawk motor we are talking about, JC, it has no seals on it. I think the problem here is that you're not the world record holder!!!


I knew that. Sorry I was just joking LOL...

I'm too old to cut the mustard anymore... LOL.

Both motors have their good points and their bad, you just pick your poison...

What can we expect for $14?...

#59 John C Martin

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Posted 23 February 2016 - 07:56 AM

I did talk to a smarter person than me. LOL... He said it's not the little increase in voltage doing the harm I thought as long as it's clean... It is the gearing causing all the heat. So I take back half of what I thought (gearing and voltage). Same with the RH as it is with the FK.

Ron H showed that last week running a 8/29 FK motor and spanking us. And a world record qual time..

I ran that ratio Sat. Just as fast total lap time, w/ no heat ! so I'm now for going lower gear ratio and keeping the heat out..

Koford please make some 29s.

That one RH that beat me must of had a torch up its a$$... LOL... plus a Rowe Daddy GFR1 chassis.

#60 MSwiss

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Posted 24 February 2016 - 11:39 AM

Just got 10 motors in.
 
Eight have good hoods.
 
I think on the other two, you might be able to fit a second brush in the hood. LOL.

Mike Swiss
 
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#61 Bazzie

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Posted 19 May 2016 - 02:33 PM

I've only had a few months racing, recently returned after a 10 year layoff from 1/24 racing, and of course started with the little 4002s. I've been racing for five months now and on my fourth motor. I've found a few problems, most of which are easy to fix, but it needs fiddling. Most if not all of it has been mentioned already, but perhaps for some confirmation and an additional idea or two.
 
Brush hood spacing and alignment - either take a good set off a good but now blown motor, or use thin needle-nose pliers to bend it more square and tighter. I prefer to not cut the positioning posts on the endbell as I suspect in a bad crash the brush hoods could move. The plastic is also really soft, so screws tend to go in loose after you've removed the hoods a few times.
 
Bearing alignment is the next bad thing. We've all seen pictures of two motors next to each other on a flat surface with the shaft on one a half shaft diameter higher than the other - it has to imply misalignment of the bearings. Tap the can bearing in a little into the motor, and then tap the shaft from the endbell side to align the can bearing again. I've not tried it yet (will do so on the next motor) but if you do so while it's running you probably have a better chance of getting good alignment.
 
After that glue and solder the bearings in. I use Loctite on the endbell bearing and solder the can end. I like the idea of moving the magnets and then gluing and crimping them in place, once again in a bad crash they could move and end up pulling the arm hard up against one of the bearings, eventually resulting in a burnt motor.
 
I had a case where in practise before the race start I came off, shouted 'blue' but no one cared to pay attention, and two guys slammed hard into my car. It was the best motor I've had out of the four, and it was dead after that. We managed to get it going again before a subsequent race but it was never the same, even after a lot of fiddling, and a week or two later it smoked...


Eben Brand


#62 gc4895

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Posted 19 May 2016 - 03:01 PM

I have zero experience with these PS4002FK motors.  My experience is only Retro Hawks and Lightening II's in retro.  How do these PS motors compare to the retro Hawk?  With all these QC issues discussed, why are the PS motors preferred (if they are actually preferred) over the retro Hawk?    While the Retro Hawk may be viewed as a bit dull, the 5 or 6 I have tried so far are all mind numbingly consistent in terms of performance.  They seem a good value at $12.95.  Just wondering.


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#63 Bazzie

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Posted 19 May 2016 - 05:01 PM

Apologies, didn't look like Tapatalk added my signature, I'm Eben :)

Eben Brand


#64 Arne Saknussem

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Posted 19 May 2016 - 06:11 PM

With all these QC issues discussed, why are the PS motors preferred (if they are actually preferred) over the retro Hawk?   

 

Both motors have some good points and bad points.  The ProSlot seems to have a few rather common assembly faults.  Personally, I'd rather have some dependability in a one-motor class but the local preference is the PS rather than the Retro Hawk so I have to partially rebuild the motor before it destroys itself.

 

In some cases, I think it may be more political than you might think.


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#65 Zippity

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Posted 19 May 2016 - 06:54 PM


In some cases, I think it may be more political than you might think.

 

:on_the_quiet:



#66 Bazzie

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Posted 21 June 2016 - 08:25 PM

I suspect the manufacturer has stopped doing any arm balancing altogether. The last two I bought are competing to vibrate more... I could see no holes drilled for balancing, it seems to have just become even more of a roulette game...

Eben Brand


#67 Tim Neja

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Posted 21 June 2016 - 09:26 PM

The most consistent motors we ever had for retro were PDL'S TSR motors! They didn't have a lot of timing-- but they seemed FAR more reliable than anything we've had since.  The Falcon's were faster, and the Retro Hawks faster still --SOMETIMES!!  I know people going through a LOT of motors to find a couple worth racing on a King track.  On any other track--no problem with RH's--and they last forever with their hard brush's.  But all that means is your DOG'S last longer too!! But it is what it is---I STILL prefer racing WITHOUT having to build motors--all that does is create an arms war.

:)


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She's real fine, my 409!!!

#68 Tom Eatherly

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Posted 21 June 2016 - 10:42 PM

Yeah, I like the TSR or maybe the F7. But, I'm a flat track guy at BPR. I do not run the King at BPR, so, no opinion there. I've just never had any luck with the RH on the flat track. Others have, but, for the most part, TSR's or F7 pretty much rule our FT.

Just my thoughts. 


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#69 orangecrate

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Posted 22 June 2016 - 12:09 PM

I have bought couple of these motors and the hoods are terrible.

I have done  is to mark the hoods on what side of the end bell they are on.

I then then enlarge the screw holes so that I can move them to get them for a good alignment.

I use my hood alignment tool to square the hoods and test fit, have to be very careful about the squaring the hood metal is pretty thin, also the screw holes may have to be enlarge more.

Tighten the hood screws and to be careful if too tight can cause the hoods get not to in alignment.

Do track testing and hopefully have a decent running motor to race.


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#70 Alexander Blankenship

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Posted 22 June 2016 - 02:26 PM

David, why should you have to do so much work to a motor to be raceable ?  Why doesn't someone bring this to the attention of Pro Slot if these motors are as bad as many purport ?


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#71 Jen McNaughton

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Posted 22 June 2016 - 02:51 PM

David, why should you have to do so much work to a motor to be raceable ?  Why doesn't someone bring this to the attention of Pro Slot if these motors are as bad as many purport ?


Because they are actually fine motors.
The fastest and longest lasting motor of it's kind.
They are being used with no problems at many raceways.

#72 Samiam

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Posted 22 June 2016 - 03:15 PM

The only way these motors will improve is if racers return the sub standard ones to the raceway. When Pro-Slot starts getting them back as defective and has to make good on them,then and only then will anything be done to improve the situation. If racers are willing to do the necessary repairs then why would PS change anything?

 

I know for a fact Pro-Slot will make good on defective goods.

 

The Chinese certainly are not going to fix it on their own. They need to be told to  " Make it right " or at least "电动机吸 "


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