141 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

Yesterday I promised myself I would get serious on a job search today.

I had one final slot car chore - sort a box of misc bodies I acquired. I found this:
 

 
and promptly forgot all about a job. Minnie Watson, John Clow, and Richard Bennardo, Sr. all have Go-karts, why don't I have one?
This is my chance to have the "biggest head in 1/24 slot cars" (the helmet is about 7/8" OD), so I can't resist.


 
Here is Rick's:

Make the JK Go-kart neat
 
Does anyone know where the masks go? Maybe they were put in the wrong package?

[Jairus]

Yes, the two thin ones go under the drivers legs and the fat one between the exhaust muffler and seat back.

Trust me... you can do better with a sharp knife and masking tape. 

I've painted a number of those.

[garyvmachines]

On the first day of my summer vacation... I went downtown, to look for a job...                 
Then I went and hung out in front of the drug store...

On the second day of my summer vacation... I went downtown, to look for a JOB...
Then I went and hung out in front of the drug store...

On the third day of my summer vacation... I went downtow , to look for a JOB!!!... I FOUND A JOB!!!

KEEPING people from hanging out in front of the drug store!!!

Thank you C&C...
 
GAV

[garyvmachines]

Hey, Pablo, I pitch the mask... Use tape and sharp knife.

I have pics for inspiration...
 
GAV

[Rick]

The Go-karts are cool but ya need an LMP body to finish them off cooler:
 

[Pablo]

Thanks, Jairus and Gary and Rick B.
 
I considered using either a Champion T-Flex or a JK C11 chassis for this car.

In both cases, the front wings do not align with the body. The only way to do it right is a scratchbuilt chassis.
So, here we go. The body will accept an anglewinder configuration "no problemo."
 
I have a few Pro Slot 4002B motors available, so I picked one out of the box and sliced the seal open.
This one has (obviously) been refurbished by "Fast Ones" so I'm sure it's not going to take much effort, if any, to make it perfect.
Gives me a thrill to cut the seal, anyway.

[bluecars]

Did Billy ever find Minnie's Go-kart???

[Pablo]

Yup. Right under his eyes. It was in Minnie's box right where it belongs, but it had a body shell placed over it.

I hope it was clean and didn't dirty up Minnie's hair.

[idare2bdul]

I remember making slot karts from 1/8 scale R/C drivers. I need to find time to build my JK Kart.

[Pappy]

Pablo,
 
I believe the JK Go-kart body was designed to fit the original JK Cheetah chassis. I don't think it had a number designation like Cheetah 7 or Cheetah 11.
 
I'm sure someone on here could tell you exactly what it is and maybe know where you can get one.

[Pablo]

Thanks anyway, Danger, but I have my heart set on scratchbuilding it.

[Pablo]

Here's one Noose painted.

[Eddie Fleming]

... but I have my heart set on scratchbuilding it.

Now that is a shocker!
 
I like that two-part body Rick is showing. It looks very true to a lot of modern karts.

[Bill from NH]

I don't have either, but I thought JK's kart and their snowmobile bodies were sized to fit their flexi narrow-pan Indy chassis.

[Pablo]

I checked that - this body is much wider than the JK Indy style chassis.

[Ramcatlarry]

The snowmobile/jetski fits the narrow Indy style frames: JK, Parma, Champion. Karts have evolved over the years, so different trim and gas tanks appear, just like dirt late models.
 
This post may make Tim put another batch of shells on the shelf.
 
BETTA in England has made a 1/32 Go-kart shell that works on Womps quite nicely. Not sure if they are still available either.

[Jairus]

Okay... guess it's time to post mine.

Raced it for a year so now it's not quite as pretty, but won two races with it.

[Pablo]

Thanks for posting, Jairus.   No need to worry about "pretty" here; your kart has a big personality.
The crew chief looks pretty cool, and your driver looks like he has been eating his Wheaties.
 
My job search today lasted about five seconds, and was totally fruitless. So, back to building slot cars...
 
Planning stage details:
Wheelbase 3-7/8", Guide lead 5/8", width 3.125"
Rear clearance: >.032"
Front clearance: >.015"
Rail spacing: 1.00"
Front chunk: .063" x 1.125"
Rails: twin wires, .063"/.055"
Plumber wires: .055"
Pans: .032"
Axle: Koford 3/32"
Gears: 64p 11/35
Oilites: Parma
Motor: Tecumseh (just kidding)  Pro Slot 4002B in anglewinder configuration
Braid: Prime Racing
Tongue: Chicagoland
Rear wheels: Limpach
Front wheels: Parma O-ring

[Bill from NH]

That frame ought to handle really well with a set of those PDL diamond fronts.

[Pablo]

There you go again, Bill, reading my mind.
 
Looks like I got lucky and nailed the lineup, Chicagoland .042" steel tongue floated onto the chunk via mini-torch.
Lift is a 5 thou Kelly bronze flag spacer.


 
The tan rubber on the "Limpach's Fresh Cuts" wheels was nice, but I changed it anyway to modern treated black donuts.


 
Pro Slot 4002B motor - not much news here - it had been freshly refurbed by Hershman.
I soldered the can bushing in place, double checked, cleaned, and tested everything.


 
Axle tube cut for motor clearance and set in the jig.

[Pablo]

This inevitably happens to hinges sooner or later:


 
So I'm going to try doubling the tubes. If it works well on the plumbers, I'll try it on the pans as well.

[Pablo]

The little Pro Slot motors make for a very simple anglewinder build.


 
1" distance between the inner rails works perfect.
For gearing, I started with the shortest jig holes I own, .720" for .063" clearance.
With .032" clearance it translates into .656" wheel OD.
Pro Slot's gear chart calculator for Retro gearing on these 4002B motors, .820" OD wheels, 7/28 gears shows a final drive ratio of 4.88.
A 35t 64p spur is about .572" OD which gives .042" clearance.
I plug in .656" into the calculator and with a 35t spur, the closest match is an 11t pinion at 4.85.
 
The motor connections at the rail and upper brace, IMO, are enough, but I wanted a cross connector for redundancy down low in the rear anyway.
So I put it close enough to the motor to use as an extra connection point in case I need it.


 
The only problem so far is, I ran myself out of .063" wire in the middle of a tinning party. Drove all over southern Mississippi looking for more, no luck.

But I found a solution - I simply closed one eye, farted, and used .055" for the outer rails. It's my new secret to allow the bite bars to sit lower.   

[Pablo]

I made up a set of doubled tubes for the front axles also.

It's a lot of work, but I get a thrill watching the tubes drink the solder.

Length tolerances are +/- 3 thou.

[Bill from NH]

One easy way of soldering up doubled tubing is to drill a couple 1/16" or 3/32" holes through the wall of the outside tube. Flux and solder it to the inside tube through these drilled holes. 

[Pablo]

Got some inside decals going on.


 
The owner of the world's biggest slot head is: Parnelli Jones.