3145 replies to this topic

[Bob Campbell]

Hey guys,

Just wanted to see what you think of my new F1 car. No kits were harmed in the making of this chassis. 100% scratch built including the guide tongue!

We, the RMRRA guys that were man enough to carpool to Casper WY, raced on an original condition American Orange track February 20th 2010. This was the maiden voyage for this car and I ended up winning the main by 4 laps.

Enjoy!

Bob C.


Here is the car (Lotus 49) after the race


Side pans and nose are .062" rails are .047"




Close up of plumber hinge


Rear up stops and gear guard. The two holes are access to motor screws


Milled rails that hold body sides. Also shows upper chassis rails.


Enough clearance for a 29t gear, the largest I run.

[Tex]

Very cool build! Grats on the win!

[Craig]

Hey Tony P.....

I hope you don't mind, I'm cloning your Aero Pod.....Have a look at the drawing I've done so far.

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[Marty Stanley]

Craig,

I too am 'in the process'.

Your drawing is very good. I do have one question; What are you going to do to tie the inner pan together?

[Craig]

Hey Marty,

I'm still trying to work that out. I think I'm going to use an inner pan rather than the wire as shown in Tony's chassis. Once the drawing is complete I will post the revised layout.

[Craig]

Okay, I think I have it worked out. Only one thing left to iron out. A way to hold the back of the outer pan. It's just to late to finish it tonight.

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[Marty Stanley]

Okay, I think I have it worked out. Only one thing left to iron out. A way to hold the back of the outer pan. It's just to late to finish it tonight.

I thought that was the job of the connecting bar (some folks call it a 'bite bar') If you look at the relationship of the two front hinges and the connecting bar you have a tripod type of effect. The outer pans are free to move fore and aft, up and down and side to side. If you have the connecting bar setup properly the rear of the outer pans is supported very nicely. The closer the connecting bar is to the rear of the outer pans, the better. I hope this helps.

[tonyp]

I solder the floating bite bar solid to the outer pans. I also use little keepers on the bite bar to keep the outer pan from moving side to side more than a few thousands and fouling on th iinner pan.

This setup lets the whole outer pan assembly move up and down a bit in the back and rock side to side.

[redbackspyder]

Just a stupid question, but isn't movement limited to only one plane ?

[tonyp]

Hinges are all in the same direction. That is all the rules specify. Play in the tubing is not regulated... It just worked out to move the way it does by accident. The original concept was to have the outer pans on a form of hinges simply so they were not soldered solid to the center which would tweak the center in case of a wreck....

[Noose]

Hinges are limited. What Tony is talking about is that there flexing but not another hinge movement.

The outer rails don't hinge up and down. They just flex. The inner portion is what hinges in a floppy manner.

[redbackspyder]

Thanks for the explanation guys, it now makes more sense. Noose, just another quick question, so If you put a small round wire in a large, box tube and the direction rotates front to back, up and down, side to side, then that is just considered one movement ? Thanks, Mill

[Noose]

It could be

[Dominator]

This one has a little out of the box thinking. The pans have side to side play. With the front connecting hinge set up to allow for some flex in the main rails. The brace's in front and behind the motor were added after it's initials test laps when I found the rear end was "steering" when the motor torqued up because of the way I bent the rails. The bracing stiffened things up quite a bit and should resolve the steering issues, testing will continue next week when I finish fine tune for the Retro Thunder event.
.063 main rails
nose is .032 brass
pans and center are .063
JK F-1 bracket
JK fronts hard front and untreated rears
JK cut down guide and nylon nut
front and rear motor braces are .055
GL 7/8", WB 3.950"
Total weight 102.6g

[PerryV]

The guide tongue was recycled from old parts.
I has .062" wire main rails, Center brass .063" and side pans .040" wheelbase is
4" and G/A is 4 9/16" will be short to suit GT40 body. Sliding rail allows pan spring change
for different tracks with one solder joint. (not shown in photo)

Perry

[GaryA]

This one has a little out of the box thinking. The pans have side to side play. With the front connecting hinge set up to allow for some flex in the main rails. The brace's in front and behind the motor were added after it's initials test laps when I found the rear end was "steering" when the motor torqued up because of the way I bent the rails. The bracing stiffened things up quite a bit and should resolve the steering issues, testing will continue next week when I finish fine tune for the Retro Thunder event.
.063 main rails
nose is .032 brass
pans and center are .063
JK F-1 bracket
JK fronts hard front and untreated rears
JK cut down guide and nylon nut
front and rear motor braces are .055
GL 7/8", WB 3.950"
Total weight 102.6g

Dominic:

It looks real nice. One question, how wide is it?

I still want to build a couple of F-1 cars. It looks wide.

Thanks

[Rick]

I have never built a plumber car and have been seeing a lot of F1's are built that way. I was just having a tough time getting my head around the concept, but when in Rome........
So here is a Victory 050 F1, Plumber version, shaker pins as recommended, 56 grams as pictured and no "rattler" installed yet. This will be compared with the other builds next week for the R4.

[Dominator]

Gary,

This is built to the IRRA width of 1-5/8". D3 max width is 1-1/2". It very deceiving the way I have the pans and main rails hung. Another reason is the main rails run on the inside of the motor bracket allowing for a wider pan. With this design it would be difficult to use .078 wire for the main rails and still have enough motor clearance. I made the cuts on the motor bracket for the rails at each corner which barely provided enough clearance for the motor.

[Dominator]

Perry,

Is that going to be a F-1 and Can Am combo? This gallery is getting a lot of art in it this week!

[gascarnut]

Gary,

This is built to the IRRA width of 1-5/8". D3 max width is 1-1/2".

D3 width is 1-3/8", makes it even more difficult to do that sort of design. Nice job, though, it will be interesting to see how it works.

[PerryV]

Perry,

Is that going to be a F-1 and Can Am combo? This gallery is getting a lot of art in it this week!

Thanks you and yes it can be used for F1, Can-Am but GT Coupe to fit a GT40 is what its for.

Perry

[Marty Stanley]

Rick,

I guess great minds thing a lot alike! Well almost!

Here's a couple of photos of my Victory Plumber Chassis.

Without a doubt, I think your Victory Formula 1 kit is the most versatile I've ever seen. Thanks for developing it.

[Rick]

I'm still not sure about a plumber but here's the update. Rattler, fronts, guide etc. Bushings in the rear until the test. Marty you have done a lot with your build.

Now on to build a R&C GP chassis. ugh!............

[Josh Crutchfield]

Here's a couple pics of my new car for the R4. Pretty basic build.






Josh

[Rick]

SHOWOFF! Go git em bro..................