62 replies to this topic

[Bill from NH]

The Koford black magnet epoxy is easy to work with, too. It does require heat setting but no mixing is required since it's a one-part cement. An arm tube of it is about $3 and will do many motors.

[GearBear]

If your local track doesn't have those tools, you can try this LINK.

This is an awesome article on building a motor. I personally use the Koford black epoxy for most of my C-can magnets but will eventually switch over to Skinner's. It is just hard to spend $60 on a small bottle of epoxy!

[team burrito]

Question: who is George Shannon? The article he wrote is simply brilliant, but I haven't seen any other examples of his writing. Nor have I seen him at any race events from the past ten+ years, so is he still involved in slot car racing or has he gone on to another hobby, like fly tying or stamp collecting? Inquiring minds want to know.

[CFL Mike]

Thank you, I will check with my local shop first, he could use some extra business. If not, I will check out that link.

[Cheater]

Question: who is George Shannon? The article he wrote is simply brilliant, but I haven't any other examples of his writing. Nor have I seen him at any race events from the past ten+ years, so is he still involved in slot car racing or has he gone on to another hobby, like fly tying or stamp collecting? Inquiring minds want to know.

I think he's moved on to adminning boards on the internet... LOL!

Since this article is thirteen years old, I guess it's OK to come out of the closet.

"George Shannon" is actually me, da cheater. In the magazine biz, if you have a single author who has written a substantial percentage of an issue's content, it is common to make it look like the content written by multiple authors by using one or more pen names... That was why the alias then.

I first used that pseudonym in HS and resurrected it for SCE for the reason stated.

Didn't really want to go here, but I was foolish enough to reveal my "secret" to Russ after his kind words posted above (there are a few others on the blog who knew as well...). When he tried to blackmail me to keep him from going public with the info, I knew I had to take away his exclusive "ammo".

So there, Russ Toy! You got nothing on me now! LOL!

[team burrito]

I'll find something else on ya'. Bahahahahahahahaha....

Signed,

the evil burrito

[JimF]

Just another attaboy... this is really a superb piece. I've been building motors myself since the late '60s and even winding BITD when that was the norm. Despite the fact that I don't like motor building, I have all the stuff and have been reasonably good at it. In all this time, I have never seen such a well-done tutorial.

Of course now, I've developed an allergy to motor building. If I even think about it, my hair falls out and I sneeze a lot. Thankfully with Retro, I don't have to worryaboudit.

[boxerdog]

It was a great piece. And it's obvious that some of us prefer motor building to chassis building.

I still have a lot of respect for the thinking that goes into a cool chassis design, something really different, and that's what I like about Retro.

But I don't agree that "built" motors ruin racing, they just introduce another variable and cost.

[CFL Mike]

But I don't agree that "built" motors ruin racing, they just introduce another variable and cost.

This.

Not to mention I would think building your own motor would offer some benefits (especially if you are experienced and knew what was best for your track) and give you some insight on how it all "really"works, if you catch my drift.

[team burrito]

Of course now, I've developed an allergy to motor building. If I even think about it, my hair falls out and I sneeze a lot. Thankfully with Retro, I don't have to worryaboudit.

But, we do build motors for our 1/24 and 1/32 RetroPro classes.





And we actually do more stuff like ball bearings, shunts, and even a little can cutting.
Very cool stuff for an even smaller, but powerful motor.

[MantaRay]

Cool shunts, Russ.

[team burrito]

They are sexy, aren't they?

[boxerdog]

I like those little motors too, Russ. Once the original arms are gone, they are VERY nice.

[team burrito]

Actually, I'm having better luck with the Chinese arms than the American version. The Big Dogs are fast for sure, but a little too powerful for these cars. I like the power curve on these puny armatures, if you don't overgear them.

[boxerdog]

There are also the PD and HK winds, which I think/hope might be a little more reliable than the originals. The BDs are pretty fast.

[team burrito]

I found the American Hawk armature to be slower, compared to the Chinese version. For some reason, the cheap arms have more grunt, but they could be balanced better. I haven't tried the PD arms yet, I may have to get one to test.

Burrito out.

[boxerdog]

I have already had three of the Chinese arms come apart, so I am a little biased against them. They run fine, shake a little, then they blow up!

[team burrito]

Actually, I wrap the comm with some thread and super glue. Cheap insurance.

[dond409]

I too have built some good motors. I also learned something today that I will try on my next build.

[MarcusPHagen]

Since this article is thirteen years old, I guess it's OK to come out of the closet.

"George Shannon" is actually me, da cheater.

Greg, you can blame Russ for this, but you actually outed yourself to anyone who was paying attention, when you said that you had the original color images.
 
Thanks for posting the article. It'll help me make something better out of the pile of motors I've picked up on eBay over the years... (as long as I can afford to pick up the tools!).

Marcus

[Bill from NH]

Marcus, much of this article will also apply to building D-can motors, if you happen to have any of them too.

[David Rees]

Magnet epoxy, like Skinner's epoxy, is certainly the best product for securing magnets, but I think JB Weld works well for C-cans and it's a lot less trouble to use than the super epoxies the Wing racers use for strap cans, as it doesn't require baking to cure.

 

JB Weld often fails for holding in magnets. Magnet epoxy is best.

[Cheater]

I admit it's been a long time since I glued a set of magnets in, but I don't recall having many, if any, JB Weld fails. Proper preparation, proper coverage, and using the slower cure JB Weld worked really well for me.

 

Is the magnet epoxy better? Sure.

[NSwanberg]

"I wouldn't ever use JB Weld... if you ever want to get it apart."

[Cheater]

Yeah, magnets installed with JB Weld are extremely difficult to remove with destroying the can in my experience, which is kinda why I was a bit surprised by David's comment.