100 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

Oilites soldered home in perfect alignment and jig motor screwed into position for rough planning.

The main chassis sits way high - my plan is to make rails and ISO setup at ground zero for front wheels.

 

I needed some sort of gizmo to temorarily jack the chassis up to it's intended height.

Math says height of motor shaft center is .440, main plate rail bottoms are .250 above axle center,

.44 - .25 = .190.  Two 3/16 tubing pieces will work fine

 

 

Now I can remove the stock motor and start jigging it all up.

Title of the thread has been changed to reflect the firing of the American Line brass paperweight chassis.

She promptly found a new home and a good job up in Canada

 

[Samiam]

 

Title of the thread has been changed to reflect the firing of the American Line brass paperweight chassis.

She promptly found a new home and a good job up in Canada

 

Pablo doing his part for NAFTA.  

[Pablo]

  I found the perfect flag: Cox "pre-quick change" style.

The flag deck height is about .060 but there is a raised part that makes it .130.

 

I added a .125 nut and a 10 thou spacer to the jig bolt to elevate the Cobra tongue accordingly.

Now I need to fabricate a tongue to chassis connector gizmo......

 

[Pablo]

Made a pattern for the .032 gizmo out of cardboard.

It will be soldered under the front end and rest atop the Cobra tongue

 

 

No, Bunky, not the cardboard, the brass gizmo. Geez, do I have to explain everything to you?

 

[Pablo]

Tongue assembly complete

 

[Bill from NH]

I can see where the "Pablo" name tag is going now!

[Pablo]

No shortage of real estate to place the "Pablo" engraving, Sir

The WB and GL on the modified Monogram chassis will be the same - 4.5".

Front wheels are .860 OD and Cox 33T crown gears at about .800 OD will serve as jig wheels

 

[Pablo]

I'll be using .055 "ISO-Torsion Tuning fork" wires to control the front axle tube.

Time for a quickie tinning party

 

This batch of 36" lengths is very straight

And what's the best tool for the job, kids? Weller Gun, that's right.

Once you do it this way you'll never go back....

 

[Pablo]

ISO-Torsion wires do triple duty - manage front wheel lift, buttress oilites, and strengthen main chassis.

 

 

From there on, they are free to allow the front axle tube to droop a hair and lift as needed:

 

 

Since there is a country mile of empty space under the chassis, the engraving sits down low

 

 

Bill, how do you like me now?

[Bill from NH]

They can see who built it without taking the body off. Hooray!

[Pablo]

Maybe I should jack all my chassis up this way 

 

 

But Jungle Pam wasn't too impressed

 

 

Telepathic steering technology has not reached 100% reliability, so I braced the rear end with a "U" wire

 

 

Tilting .063 X 1/4" body mount pans at ground zero lower the overall center of gravity.

Hinges are 3/32 square tubing. Looks a little like Kon-Tiki, eh?

 

[Bill from NH]

If you run big wheels like those shown in you first photo, you could also run colored lights underneath the chassis like some of the lowrider guys use.

 

You gotta like that retro photo of Jungle Pam.

[Pablo]

Yep.

My bastardized Monogram Kon-Tiki chassis got a 1/16 wire bite bar with .047 downstops

 

 

Ready for tumbling

 

 

[Pablo]

One more permanent addition before tumbling - a pair of 1/4 X .025 wraps for the can-end bushing holder.

They will be soldered inside of the main rails

 

[Pablo]

Monogram Kon-Tiki chassis is done

 

 

 

 

[Bill from NH]

Nice looking 75% scratchbuilt chassis.   I'm sure you know these Monogram chassis show up frequently on eBay. If they're not complete, they're usually priced quite reasonably.

[Pablo]

Thanks but I don't plan to go into production with this fun car

Cox flag secured with Classic weight.

I changed my mind on the fronts - threaded Cragar style vintage wheels with hard tires.

Old skool nuts n plastic spacers, Professor Motor threaded 2 1/2" axle

 

 

 

Rears are set screw Ergal-type.

Old skool plastic spacers sandwiched between modern Slick 7 steel spacers.

 

[Pablo]

Took some fiddlin' but I managed to make the flag self-centering

 

 

H Power motor secured both fore

 

 

and aft

 

 

She passed the drivetrain test (again) no problem and is ready for the combat Lego driver and '34 Ford body

 

[Bill from NH]

Is that '34 Ford coupe a 1/24 scale body? I ask because in your last photo, the chassis looks long enough to fit a 4.5 " car. It'll be fun running it around the track at Billy's once his knee heals.

[Pablo]

It's a 1/24, 4 1/2" wheelbase body.

[Bill from NH]

I think I saw a '34 coupe body like it last night. The seller indicated it was by International.

[Pablo]

Driver is anxious to return to the combat zone

 

[Steve Okeefe]

Nice freestyle build!  Clever use of parts and materials. 

 

I really like the driver figure. 

 

Two questions:

 

Is that a Parma pink crown dyed blue?

 

What did the dimension across the rear tires end up being?  2-1/2", 2-3/4"?

[Pablo]

Thanks Steve

1. Yes

2. 2 1/2" front and rear

[Pablo]

Ready for next track test 7 April.

Weight is now 156 grams