38 replies to this topic

[havlicek]

...cause people ask me to.  This one is a "long form fk", and with the base motor already out there as a plain-jane industrial-use type motor from Mabuchi, there's at least something to start with.  Even so, one heckuva lot of work went into this thing so far,

* Strip the original motor, and save the can and magnets...everything else gets tossed.
* Remove the can bushing, and mill the bushing end of the can flat

* Flip the can over and mill the open end to just remove where the mini-tabs were, keeping as much length as possible
* Mill a slot on both flats like what you get on slot car motors of the type
* Remove all the can plating that remains, finish-up everything with sandpaper by hand to remove the mill and other marks
* Install a can bearing.  After removing the bushing and milling the end, the hole is too big for a 5mm, so it's a 2mmx 6mm bearing
* Install copper (*brass?) hardware on a Pro Slot end bell

* Turn down the radiused edges of the end bell to fit the can.
* Drill the end bell to key the bearing in place so it (hopefully!) doesnt move or spin in it's pocket.
* Install a 2mm x 5mm bearing in the end bell with lo-vis epoxy...***AVOIDING contaminating the bearing!
* Tweak the end bell hardware to better suit an inline application, because this thing sure ain't going anglewinder!
* Mask the can bearing and shoot a coat of VHT "Anodized red" (first time with this color, it's pretty danged cool!)

So, with all that done, NOW I can build and wind an arm.  It's going to be a "12L", meaning 50/29 on one heckuva long stack!



The motor should be a dandy for an inline/formula type build, with a #29 wind being more than enough to haul those beans!

[Eddie Fleming]

I am just asking but it occurred to me that cutting down the number of turns to keep about the same wire length on the very long stack would seem plausible? 

[Geary Carrier]

This baby is gonna have some torque on tap, or at least a shot and a beer...

[havlicek]

I am just asking but it occurred to me that cutting down the number of turns to keep about the same wire length on the very long stack would seem plausible? 

 

That certainly would be logical Eddie, but the idea here (from the person who ordered the motor) was torque and reliability.  Keeping the familiar 50/29 wind on such a long stack should take care of that, and soften the motor's expected performance.  I'm sure there will be plenty of RPMs anyway for the type car this motor would be installed in.

 

 

This baby is gonna have some torque on tap, or at least a shot and a beer...

I think so Geary   It's definitely not your "same old/same old" slot car motor, and the length may even be something of a help for weight distribution, depending on chassis design.  If the 50/29 turns out to be a handful, there's always...LEAD!

[havlicek]

     Speaking of torque and all that stuff:

[zipper]

Very Long John arm

[gotboostedvr6]

What's the stack length!

[havlicek]

What's the stack length!

 

It's over .615 Dave.

[C. J. Bupgoo]

   Heh-heh-heh-hehhh...     

[olescratch]

   Heh-heh-heh-hehhh...     

Think I can guess where this one is going!  

[Jesse Gonzales]

Looks kind of like the Mura Long John armatures, just a heck of a lot neater. A great Orange track motor or maybe a Black track?

 

Jess Gonzales

[Steve Deiters]

Good looking stuff...as usual.

[SlotStox#53]

Really sweet

Although it's probably just as easy to start with a "long" FK slot motor like the NSR King, Avant slot etc.

Of course I'm mainly talking about cans that already have cooling holes in them which saves having to mess with machine work

Superb arm & finish John, nice to see a long motor.

[havlicek]

Thanks guys.

 

 

 

Of course I'm mainly talking about cans that already have cooling holes in them which saves having to mess with machine work 

 

Yep Paul, although there's still a bunch of machine work involved...even WITH the holes!  I don't remember what sort of magnets those have either (*been a long time!).  These are nice and strong and create a perfect .530" hole in this can, so there might be ways these are "time-savers" in that regard.  Certainly, with the move to anglewinders (*except for most Retro racing), a motor that can only go "inline" presents some design challenges to scratchbuilders, but this one at least should mount to standard brackets with minimal fiddling.  ***The only extra consideration here would be to provide for some end bell bracing because the long length of the motor makes stopping movement even more important.

[John Gorski]

Another Magic Electric Motor by the Craftsmen!!

[SlotStox#53]

Don't doubt the extra fiddling even with those cans/motors. Haven't had any experience with them so I can't comment on magnets. Although I'd hope they'd be of useable oomph for hopping up/rewinds..

Perfect .530 gap opens up a whole world of possibilities!!

[munter]

Where is the "Love" button.

 

Great to see this type of motor given the "H" treatment.

 

A thing I often wonder about is that third hole in the end of the can.....what is it for?

[havlicek]

Where is the "Love" button.

 

Great to see this type of motor given the "H" treatment.

 

A thing I often wonder about is that third hole in the end of the can.....what is it for?

 

 

Thanks John.  I figure the hole is either a "standard/generic" thing for these type motors and is either used somehow, or for something during assembly, or that in some applications the hole is used for mounting.  Remember, these kinds of motors are for general industrial use, so they could show up in any number of applications from automobiles to toys.

[slotcarone]

The JK RTR cars use one side hole and the center hole to mount the motors to the chassis.

[Don Weaver]

Does the paint on the spring posts act as a spring insulator?

 

Don

[havlicek]

The JK RTR cars use one side hole and the center hole to mount the motors to the chassis.

 

 

Well, there's one thing at least.  Thanks Mike!

[havlicek]

Does the paint on the spring posts act as a spring insulator?

 

Don

 

I think it's really more of a cosmetic thing Don, but also could be used to identify polarity.  Here, the specifications given to me called for these, so I used them.

[munter]

The JK RTR cars use one side hole and the center hole to mount the motors to the chassis.

 

That is interesting. I wonder what screw type they use as the side holes are M2 threaded where I dont think the centre one is threaded at all.

 

Not a biggy, just wondered about it, kinda pointless too.

[Eddie Fleming]

No it is not pointless.

 

The RTR (ready to run) car is intended for beginners. many if not most do not know how to solder so a screw in motor is best. They use one self tapping screw and one 2 mill.  

[Alchemist]

Another fantastic motor John!

 

How much more torque, percentage wise, would you deduce this FK180 has over a similar wind on a FK130 size motor John - please?

 

With the stack, being as tall as it is,  how is the balance on this arm?

 

Thank you.

 

Ernie