86 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

Right hand rail gets tacked onto the chunk up front

 

 

Runs alongside the can (motor solder point) and angles up at a 90 to meet the tube. One bend

 

 

 

[Pablo]

Left rail has 3 bends to clear the EB

 

[havlicek]

Pablo...you are at least as nutz as I am (*and that's pretty nutz!).  I don't know that I've ever seen an unmodified 13UO mounted full sidewinder, and I know for sure that I've never seen one sidewinder AND standing on it's side.  This is some creative scratchbuilding right here, that will put whatever little weight the motor has pretty much as close to right on the rear axle as possible.  Very cool stuff!

[Pablo]

Thanks John. I concur, I am certifiable - we should go into business together.

On second thought, that would probably ruin a good thing

 

Banshee progress report:

 

 

[olescratch]

Pulling out a few tricks!

[Pablo]

Model Master Arctic Blue Metallic with Parma Faswhite backing

 

[Pablo]

Chassis done. Two motor mount points on both chassis and motor can acid tinned

 

 

 

Chassis goes to tumbler, can gets cleaned and re-assembled with new modified endbell.

Final motor mounting will be done with paste flux

[Pablo]

P.S. Don't tell Havlicek I'll be using one of his masterpiece motors as a stressed member

The can being soldered in two places adds needed strength in that area.

 

Parma flag braid and rotation point surfaces faced. Cahoza threader followed up with Magnehone.

Old skool brass clips. Connector TBD later, here are some choices:

Cobra weight, standard Parma nut, and a K&B

 

[Jaeger Team]

P.S. Don't tell Havlicek I'll be using one of his masterpiece motors as a stressed member

The can being soldered in two places adds needed strength in that area.

In the days the 1/32 guys used those motors as structural part of the chassis. The also fitted cobalt magnet in.

[havlicek]

Havlicek is cool with what you're doing Pablo...build-on! 

 

 

In the days the 1/32 guys used those motors as structural part of the chassis. The also fitted cobalt magnet in.

 

Yeah, and those motors were often radically cut-up and had C can end bells turned-down to fit.  The end result was cool, but bore hardly any resemblance to the 13UO Maurizio!  Doing what Pablo is doing with a rewound 13UO...or really any 13UO is really thinking outside the box.

These motors can get some pretty good revs (*even more impressive when you compare to the stock version), but torque is the question...so gearing will be something to work out here.

[Pablo]

Gearing is already worked out - changing would be difficult to say the least.

So I thought long and hard about it before chosing 7/30 with .765" OD wheels.

 

Chassis is 100% done, weight is 47.7 g

 

 

[Jairus]

Looking GREAT Paul.  Paint is excellent!

[Pablo]

Thanks Jairus, that carries a lot of weight coming from a guy like you

 

Brand new sleeved vintage Cox 30T gear in place and 2 tinned chassis surfaces ready to receive the motor.

Kind of a special moment, because there is no turning back on this one

 

 

Modified endbell installed, both arm shaft ends custom cut to exacting lengths, narrowed steel pinion.

Motor brushes broken in anew at 2V for 15 mins, then 3V for 15 mins.

Amp draw was steady about 1.00 amps, telling me the brushes are still true

 

 

Moment of truth to follow...........

[Pablo]

Motor installation was easy, and she passes the drivetrain test fine.

I cranked her way up and all I got was smooth healthy horsepower.

 

It's a 13uo to the casual observer, but it's 65 turns of 30 in a relatively tight airgap with strong mags.

There is no getting around that, no matter how you slice or dice it 

 

[SlotStox#53]

One unique & sweet chassis by Pablo + strong little mill by HPower = definitely not your daddy's Banshee

Love it

[Jairus]

Gear mesh should be no problem.  I love sidewinders for that very reason.
Looking great Paul, keep going!

[Pablo]

Thanks Here is a shot of the rear can connection and bracing

 

 

The lams look pretty close to the tube - they are - but clear by about .025"

 

And, I know it looks like the handwound H spring is about to fall off - it's just the way they are wound.

The motor runs so good, I won't mess with them. They aren't falling off.

 

Flag secured with a genuine vintage (thin) Cobra weight. Rotation surface faced of course.

Wires routed to give a soft self-centering. Clips are vintage style brass Parmas.

Braids will be Prime Braid.

 

Montague style .032 wire front axle springs give a light downward influence.

I'm Tony P. trained in proper spring action

 

 

 

[Mr. M]

We used to turn up the tension on the outside spring to get 27s and 15s around the lead on turn on an Orange track. Worked great! Black was really tight. Didn't seem to make any difference anywhere else.

[Pablo]

Custom cut and brass rod axled Parma aluminum front wheel inserts JB Welded into JK Big Daddy Wonder Rubber full width rears, cut down to 9/16 width and .770" OD

 

 

dc-65x, how do you like me now?

[Bill from NH]

Did you move again? Or is Pass Christian & Johnson Bayuo the same place?

[Pablo]

No. Johnson Bayou is in Pass Christian.

And if it keeps raining hard today, I may be able to fish out my front windows soon

[Bill from NH]

Thanks! I first searched the net for Johnson Bayou & ended up in LA.

[Pablo]

Yes, there are many Johnson Bayous, but this one is mine   

Alligators, Red Drum, Bass, Bluegill, Speckled Trout, Gar, Turtles, Beaver, Bobcats, Otters,

Turkey, Herons, Ibis, Owls, Bald Eagles, Pelicans, Ducks, Geese.........

 

Banshee is ready for the body

 

 

How do you like the matching wheels?

 

 

[miko]

Cool!

[Jairus]

Love those rear wheels!!!!