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Swiss,
You’re the one who started all the crap with this smart a$$ remark in post #21. “I endured a few You Tube videos, on flattening them. and It seems like guys make a lot of effort to make those work, vs. doing something practical, but of course, it is what it is”.
You “endured” watching those YouTube video’s??? I’m really sorry that it was so painful watching those YouTube video’s. Something “practical”???…..do you mean as in wing car racing? Wing car racing is the most numb nuts form of slot car racing there is, which is why it’s doing so good.
Then in post #24 you said “I’m just sort of surprised with 21,000 RPM motors and shorter straightaways, they are going fast enough to break” and then you point out that Smokeio’s car was in another stratosphere (performance wise). This is why the cars break, they are going “real fast” as compared to most 1/32 scale racing done on plastic tracks. Dave says he raced 1/32 scale cars for seven years but what kind of cars did he race? If he raced Fly, Carrera, Scalextric or any number of other 1/32 scale cars he probably wasn’t going fast enough to break. The guys at Slot Car Corner and Clover Leaf Racing have taken 1/32 scale racing in this country to a new level. Racing in the Michigan 24 is akin to racing in the Can Am A main at the R4 but doing it for 24 hours and not just 24 minutes. You are competing against the best in the USA and Canada.
Then in your post #27 you say “I’m surprised as long as these 1/32 plastic cars have been around, they are designed with weak spots, like you describe, around the guide. I also would have thought the issue with warping, would of been remedied”. This is the first time I’ve seen a chassis break around the guide, why it did it on this particular car I don’t know, maybe because it was going real fast and ran into something that was really hard. When it comes to warping I’m not talking about 1/8” like someone told you, I’m talking about maybe .010 to .015 of an inch. We want the chassis perfectly flat just like any other form of slot racing. I pointed out that Retro kits and flexi chassis aren’t perfect either and you said “I just expected with the much bigger market to 1/32 scale plastic cars, they would be terrific.” For your information, they are terrific, just not perfect. Then in your post #31 you post race results where you survived one hard hit in a 24 minute race, try it for a 24 hour race and see how many hard hits your car can take.
In your post #41 you talk about the guy who raced at M/A who had to replace every part of there car. Again, what the hell were they racing? The same guy told you that the more expensive and competitive the car, the more fragile it is. Bull Crap, this guy obviously doesn’t know much about setting up one of these cars, they’re not more fragile they are just going a lot faster. You also said “I guess I expected with higher volume, you would see better quality and QC, but apparently not the case”. Again, “Bull Crap” you don’t have a clue what you are talking about. If the quality and quality control wasn’t there 1/32 scale racing wouldn’t be as big as it is. Maybe if 1/24 scale racing had the same quality and quality control it wouldn’t be sinking like the Titanic.
So this brings us to your post #50. I did get my facts straight and as listed above “you did badmouth what I do”. I did say you can put $100 into one of these cars only to find out that you can’t keep up. I didn’t say it wasn’t a good car but if it’s a few hundredth of a second off the pace in a 24 hour race you aren’t going to keep up. How many guys put a couple hundred dollars into a Retro car only to find themselves in the D Main. If I remember correctly the difference between making the A Main or being all the way down in the D Main at the R4 this year was less than 4/10 of a second. My comparison to Retro was a reply to your insinuation that the quality of 1/32 plastic cars is crap. All I did was point out that Retro and Flexi cars aren’t perfectly true either.
