3573 replies to this topic

[Victor Poulin]

John,
The original endbells do use a 5mm bushing, and these new ones do as well. As far as the brushes go, yes we did have to shorten the brushes a tad using the stock hardware. I used Mura hardware, and didn't run into that problem. I'm not sure about the new ones, but I,m guessing depending on the com size, you may still have to.

Vic

[havlicek]

Thanks for clearing that up Vic! Truthfully, if shortening the brushes is all...I wouldn't bother swapping hardware. That seems like a very small tradeoff for an endbell that's workable right out of the box. Now I'm eager to cut up some more Falcons and build some itty bitty stump-pullers. I may have to order some more Emovendo neos

-john

[Victor Poulin]

Thanks for clearing that up Vic! Truthfully, if shortening the brushes is all...I wouldn't bother swapping hardware. That seems like a very small tradeoff for an endbell that's workable right out of the box. Now I'm eager to cut up some more Falcons and build some itty bitty stump-pullers. I may have to order some more Emovendo neos

-john

Hahaha, I already did yesterday lol. I had all I could do to pull the darn things apart. I still need to gauss a set to see what I get on mine. I hope to get out to the shop tomorrow afternoon for a while.

I know the stock Hawk hardware isn't bad at all, but I just like using the Mura because I like copper better. Besides, it looks cool

[Don Weaver]

I may have to order some more Emovendo neos

John,

You'll have 3 sets on their way to you Monday!

Don Weaver

[havlicek]

John,

You'll have 3 sets on their way to you Monday!

Don Weaver

Great Don...I guess I'll have to build a drag motor with those bad boys

-john

[proptop]

What is the inside (length) dimension between the bushings...I mean, what maximum length arms will it accept?

I have some extra P15 arms...they are around .900 to .950 long...these set-ups might be fun to experiment with.
At .480 to .500 dia. they might be a little small in dia. though? (might need to shim the magnets?)

[havlicek]

Hi Tom,

I don't have the number in front of me, but that sounds "in the ballpark". In any case, it really doesn't matter much because the cans need to be cut down anyway so one could easily be cut to suit those arms of yours.

At .480 to .500 dia. they might be a little small in dia. though? (might need to shim the magnets?)

You know what?, the Emovendo neos are so strong that those arms might actually be fine just as is. The Strapnut I just built had an arm with a .505"-ish diameter in a tight .518" hole and it really took a pretty hot wind to seem like the arm wasn't fighting (and losing) the battle against the magnets.

*A #26 was OK...rev'd fine and seemed to have a boatload of torque,
*a #28 actually got hotter than the #26 and didn't run as well as a G20/ceramic C can.
*Then I did a #25 and things really started to get interesting.

I think the #25 would wind considerably higher and still have good torque with a bigger hole, but it's pretty crazy-sounding as-is. I can't remember the measurement, but the Emovendos in the S7 can had a slightly wider airgap than I was looking for which is why I shimmed them...but that was before I got to try the motor out

Bottom line is that with a Dremel tool, some creativity and some inexpensive parts you can do some cool things here. You don't have to have a NASA-sized budget ...or rare vintage parts to play with some very fast motors. Plus...you get the satisfaction of running a motor you built from leftover parts!

-john

[Victor Poulin]

Tom,
Are you talking about the Hawk set up, or the Falcon type cans?

Vic

[havlicek]

Good point Vic...in retrospect I think he's probably talking about the Hawk, in which case it gets even easier

-john

[proptop]

Yeah...I was thinking of the new Hawk 6...if I can find something shorter than a typical C can set-up it would save a bunch of work. I really enjoyed seeing all the work you did John, getting those neo mags to work in a C can, but not sure I want to go through all that if I can get the Hawk 6 for 15 bucks. How can ya beat that, huh!?

Been contemplating...getting some of those emovendo (sp?) neo mags and fitting them into something like a 13U can. For that set-up I would probably use a std. length G20 arm? End Bell is the question...if the Hawk EB will fit the 13U can, or w/ modification, that might be a fun project.

I like seeing / checking out the really cool stuff you guys are doing in this thread...it's inspiring.

Thanks!

[Victor Poulin]

Tom,
I think you'll find that the p-15 arm will fit in the Hawk set up no prob. The only thing you may want to do, would be to shim the mags in some. The Hawk has about a 560 hole as I remember. You can really do alot with these little motors if your willing to spend a little time.

Vic

[havlicek]

Yeah...I was thinking of the new Hawk 6...if I can find something shorter than a typical C can set-up it would save a bunch of work. I really enjoyed seeing all the work you did John, getting those neo mags to work in a C can, but not sure I want to go through all that if I can get the Hawk 6 for 15 bucks. How can ya beat that, huh!?

Been contemplating...getting some of those emovendo (sp?) neo mags and fitting them into something like a 13U can. For that set-up I would probably use a std. length G20 arm? End Bell is the question...if the Hawk EB will fit the 13U can, or w/ modification, that might be a fun project.

I like seeing / checking out the really cool stuff you guys are doing in this thread...it's inspiring.

Thanks!

Yep...the Hawk is a good deal alright. Just sticking the stronger neos in there and whatever arm, yolu're already there and the 13UO can wouldn't really be necessary...except that it's longer length would allow you a wider choice of arms. Howzabout something like a G20 in there

-john

[JohnnySlotcar]

John, wait till you try the Hawk 6 neo. It has a .565 hole with the neo's and a taller endbell tower and the plate gap is much larger, allowing any coms.$14.00 retail,best buy ever on a slot motor. I have been playing/testing with them.The arm that comes with it also is quite good.Even with a Hawk wind it is fast and I tried to "burn one down'by running it for 10 minutes straight on the track overgeared.Kept on running strong.I have one with a ps x-12 arm I will be testing today. John

[havlicek]

Thanks for the heads-up John. Yes, I've been hearing many good things about this motor. I hope I don't offend the folks at JK by tearing them apart and doing all manner of unspeakable things to them after they went to all the trouble of designing such a nice motor. It's like the thing is just asking to be messed-around with! $14 is one heckuva deal for all you get there.

-john

[Victor Poulin]

John, wait till you try the Hawk 6 neo. It has a .565 hole with the neo's and a taller endbell tower and the plate gap is much larger, allowing any coms.$14.00 retail,best buy ever on a slot motor. I have been playing/testing with them.The arm that comes with it also is quite good.Even with a Hawk wind it is fast and I tried to "burn one down'by running it for 10 minutes straight on the track overgeared.Kept on running strong.I have one with a ps x-12 arm I will be testing today. John

John,
I,ve done a few of the older Hawk motors with X-12 arm and they screamed !! So now with these new Neos in them, I,m interested to hear what you think. I did one of the new ones last week, and used a BOW 32deg Hornet arm in it with BBs, and I was really impressed !!

Can't wait to hear what you think when you try the 12 arm in there

Vic

[JohnnySlotcar]

Jerry loves that you and others mess with his stuff! As he often says: "Good for business!} LOL, but true,heck of a nice guy,always fair to everyone.I,m building and testing several with different arms today.I will keep you posted on the results if you wish. John

[havlicek]

Well cool then. By all means John...post your results here. With such an easily modified setup and good magnets stock...maybe other people will get interested too. Who knows, with a tagged arm in there...you might see a bunch of people wanting to...gasp...run these things against each other!

-john

[JohnnySlotcar]

Rumor has it one ran in a flat track with near eurosport cobalt motor times!

[havlicek]

Rumor has it one ran in a flat track with near eurosport cobalt motor times!

I would love to try that as a standard to reach for with just the stock magnets John. As a last resort, some of those Emovendo neos might add the extra oomph needed. It would be pretty crazy if a $14 motor with some massaging could actually not embarass itself in a field of eurosports. Just fantasizing here

-john

[Victor Poulin]

Rumor has it one ran in a flat track with near eurosport cobalt motor times!

I heard that as well, I really think theirs a big future in these motors.

[Robert V.]

I have one of those little hawk motors got it cheap at the race track a while ago $6.50 brand new in the package sealed it was missing one brush and one spring threw in the missing parts and the little motor sounds pretty good stock and i really like the end bell hard ware i may have to rewind the arm and see what happens how are the mags stock in comparison to one of those TSR motors.

[JohnnySlotcar]

Just finished testing the Hawk 6 with a pro-slot puupy dog arm.Motor broke in at 1.66 amps at 5 volts.Geared 12-42 in a jk gt-1 stamped chassis,the car was about .1 off the pace on a high speed short track.Motor was exceedingly smooth and ran very cool.Should be a great flat track option. John

[havlicek]

Sounds very promising John

I have one of those little hawk motors got it cheap at the race track a while ago $6.50 brand new in the package sealed it was missing one brush and one spring threw in the missing parts and the little motor sounds pretty good stock and i really like the end bell hard ware i may have to rewind the arm and see what happens how are the mags stock in comparison to one of those TSR motors.

Hi Robert,

The Hawk motors first came with ceramic magnets...but they're very strong and you can do a really nice rewind with the stock setup. The good news is that ceramics (unlike neos) can usually be zapped to bring them to their full power.

I played with one of the Mabuchi RS360 RH motors over the weekend to see what's what. This was one of those times that (despite what you had planned) the motor tells YOU what the project is going to be After talking apart the motor and measuring the magnets, I found them to be somewhere between the stock old Mabuchi 36D magnets and Arcos. I figured I'd give zapping them a try to see if maybe they just needed a little rejuvenation and they wound up weaker! I also pushed the shaft to build an endbell drive motor out of the thing and found there wasn't enough shaft to mount a pinion! Putting the stock magnets magnets aside for a later time when I would have another whack at them, I had a set of Arcos that had been hacked-up a little but read full-strong so I figured I'd use them. To make up for the short shaft situation, I cut down a pretty clean looking FT36D Mabuchi can and then epoxied-in the Arcos. I got a pretty clean FT36D endbell and notched it so the back of it would'nt show through the can holes and then dyed it red to cover up some of the age-discoloration. After soldering the brush tubes to the hoods, fashioning a set of spring post protectors, winding a set of new brush springs and reassembling, I had a shortened FT36D setup that would fit the arm nicely. So after that little sidetrip through "the land of unforseen problemos", I was back on course

With a nice stout set of Arcos in the now-shortened can, I wanted to do a strong wind...but not an unreasonable one. After all that work, I wanted a motor that would last...so I did a #27 With the com that came on this arm, I was actually able to weld the connections using a different tip that heats up faster and hotter than the one I normally use. I figured I could get in and out quick without vaporizing the com tabs and it worked! The arm pretty much balanced itself with only two very small holes and surprise surprise...the com needed only the lightest of skim cuts (one pass!) to true it up! Here's what i got:



I was originally thinking that a #27 in an FT36D might be limited to being used for a drag motor, but this thing surprised me. It draws under 2 amps at 12V, runs smooth as heck and doesn't seem to get too warm at all. I think this might be best in a road course car and, if the car is sidewinder, there'd be some more room for better tires because of the shortened can. I think it looks neat with the shortened can, chromed spring post protectors and red-dyed endbell...and it runs better than it looks! Sometimes I get lucky

-john

[Alchemist]

John,

All your motors are gorgeous - it's no wonder I get "overheated" when I look at these gems of yours!! LOL!!! YOU are the one that makes this stuff "contagious" hahaha - don't stop!! All these "nasty" strapnut motors of yours and all the other unique stuff that you and the other members do - it makes me greedy for more LOL!!

If I may ask you please, what type of tool do you use to measure the "air gap" between the mag and arm?

Thank you.

Ernie

[Victor Poulin]

That came out the nuts John !! I wanted to ask you how you dye your endbells?

I built a super Hawk motor today. I wanted to do something really crazy, so here's what I did. I striped out a new Hawk, cut the ears on the front of the can to allow for more air flow. Soldered in a 5mm ball bearing. Then I used a set of the new Neos we got, and shimed them to a 525 hole using an old can that I cut to fit. I used one of the new endbells, but removed the bushing and installed ball bearings. This is the good part ,,, then I installed a Koford group 27 arm in this sucker, and toped it off with SBF-II brushes.

Now, I'm playing around with different springs to see what works better with this set up. I'll tell you what though,, this baby has some cog !! I powered it up using the stock springs and it runs strong, but is only pulling 1.6 amps. I can't figure that one out lol. That's why I'm now thinking maybe I need stronger springs?

Vic