61 replies to this topic

[MSwiss]

I don't see how it works.

Is the piano wire melted into the guide?

As far as trying it, you have to keep in mind will it withstand crashes?

[Martin]

It could be melted into the guide, but however you make the hole, the wire goes in the guide and loops around and back on its self.

This pic shows it a bit better. The wire is free to float in the frame tube.

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[Jay Guard]

I guess i must be missing something here.  Is there some particular historical significance to this chassis that I'm unaware of?  Yeah, it's kind of neat that it was (quite poorly, got to agree with Tony P. here) made by a NASA Engineer but is that what the interest here is? I mean if it was made by Neil Armstrong I would get it, but Stanley J  Smith?  I certainly don't mean to take anything away from Stanley's apparently successful career.  But having been closely associated with the Florida Aerospace industry for over 40 years I've never heard of him, which doesn't mean he wasn't a great engineer who made many important contributions to the NASA mission.  I agree that it was a pretty good find for the price but if it was mine I would probably clean and resolder the heck out of this thing while preserving the inscriptions, put a few laps on it to see what it could do, and then put it on a shelf with a little sign indicating it's heritage. Just my $.02.

[MSwiss]

It could be melted into the guide, but however you make the hole, the wire goes in the guide and loops around and back on its self.

This pic shows it a bit better. The wire is free to float in the frame tube.

Now it makes sense.

 

With the other pic, to me, it looks like it is 2 separate pcs. of wire, or it originated as 1 pc., but broke at the top.

 

I've thought of doing the same thing, on cars where the guide post can extend up, beyond the nut, and drilling a tiny hole through said post, and and of course, have a .015"-.020" wire through it.

[Pablo]

if it was mine I would probably clean and resolder the heck out of this thing

Jay, does this mean you disagree with all my posts advising against re-soldering old chassis?

Lately the subject has come up a lot, and my responses have been pretty much the same.

If you disagree, that's fine. But I have to wonder .........

 

Everything else in your post, I have to stand by the OP, he never suggested it was "The Holy Grail" of eBay finds.

He just showed it for what it was and didn't mis-represent it at all, IMO.

[Jay Guard]

Mike:

I can't say where I've seen it but I know I've seen exactly what you are describing, probably on an old late 60's era chassis.

[MSwiss]

Me, too.

 

It seems like it's something that has to of been tried before.

[Jay Guard]

Jay, does this mean you disagree with all my posts advising against re-soldering old chassis?

Lately the subject has come up a lot, and my responses have been pretty much the same.

If you disagree, that's fine. But I have to wonder .........

Pablo:

Not sure what you are "wondering" about but I think it really depends on the chassis and it's history as to how it could/should be handled.  If it's something of real historical importance I would totally agree with you to leave it in it's as found condition/patina, but in this case not so much. Regarding "all" of your other posts, it's not to say that you don't have to be careful when repairing or re-soldering something like this but it's not exactly rocket science.

[Pablo]

Jay, my experience with old chassis restorations is obviously far different than yours.

If Martin decides to start "re-soldering the heck" out of this chassis, I'd like to see photos of it.

[Jairus]

Gee... didn't Cox do that guide thing back in.... I don't know.  1964 with a rubber band?
 

[Pablo]

They sure did, and it worked well

[Martin]

Another nice little detail is the use of thrust bearings on both sides of the front axle and on one side of the rear.

 

I for one would like to see a Walters body as TonyP suggested. If this is one? is it a candidate for re-poping?

 

Jay, I think you are missing something here. It's dated and signed its modifications are noted and dated. It has uncommon design features, i.e.segmented front axle mount, thrust bearings , self centering guide. ridged front pans and a body that TonyP has given some identification as the "That body may be the long lost Waters Mclaren coupe".. 

What would you like to see in this Amateur 1/24 vintage category? 

I love to share here, I have laughed and as always learned from you all. What more could you ask for?

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[Jay Guard]

Hi Martin:

I've got to admit that this chassis sure is interesting but IMO, not really ground breaking technology.  If it was so good these "improvements" probably would have certainly shown up on the top pro chassis of the day which I can't say I've seen.  Nonetheless it's a cool piece of vintage chassis history and I can understand why one would want to preserve it in its original condition.  I'd probably clean and "repair" it and send it off to the LASCM if it was mine but that's purely a personal opinion, worth about $.02, if that.  I'm sure PDL could help put some of the technology of this chassis in proper prospective, that would be interesting.  All this said I think you've got a pretty cool find here, carry on as you see fit.

[Martin]

Thanks Jay, "historical significance" that's hard to find. We are talking amateur slot cars here. I for one was a follower of trends that the pros were pioneering I was lucky to add a few small features of my own and I probably thought I had reinvented the wheel at age 15.

At $50 I went back and forth on whether to buy. But I realize sharing on this blog adds so much to this hobby. Car $50, sharing and opinions priceless.

[Jay Guard]

You got that SO right Martin, couldn't agree more.

[Mbloes]

I like the double cut-out drop arm.  I don't think anybody made these commercially so they're not that common (at least what I've seen).

 

I've got one as well:

 

[Martin]

Nice clean chassis Mike.

The double cut-out drop arm is a great way to shed weight but still keep the wires from falling through. I am sure there are other ( easier ) ways to do this.

Maybe historian and or frame builders can weigh in on this feature.

[tonyp]

Here’s one from the Cobra Mura race at Buzzarama (1969?). I did it because it looked cool. No technical reason.





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[Eddie Fleming]

 I did it because it looked cool. No technical reason.

 

Oh that is great, and honest. I love it.

[Martin]

What was meant by " notice the new style swing-arm pivot" ?

Are they talking about the hinge or the two square holes?

 

It does not escape me that you were there in the thick of things, amazing.

[tonyp]

To lower the CG the arm hinge is between the drop arm and motor box brass plate instead of on top of the droparm.


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[MSwiss]

The hinge.

It's soldered on to the back edge of the drop arm, vs. the top.

PS - looks like Tony and I were posting at the same time. I am curious where the inner part of the hinge is soldered.

[Martin]

Got it, in stereo

[elvis44102]

so slot car racing is Beyond rocket science

[tonyp]

Inner was soldered to arm. Outer tubes were notched to lay flat with bottom of chassis and extend over main rails. They were soldered there and motor box plate.


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