267 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

.910" by .875" by .063" front brass chunk and tongue tinned (both sides). Then I etched alignment scribes on both tongue and chunk with my calipers for alignment. The 2 degree tilted Chicagoland steel tongue has notches for easy eyeball alignment, and a couple grooves that make perfect slots to lay small lengths of .032" solder. A precise and perfectly thought-out product for scratchbuilders       I positioned it with alligator clips, bathed all in acid, turned off my central A/C and ceiling fans, and hit it with the minitorch. Nailed it, easy  No brag, just fact 

 

[Pablo]

Mini-motor box and .063 plated Swiss wire rails tacked in place. Now the gears, jig wheels and jig motor came be removed, cleaned up and set aside

 

[Pablo]

Braces, strengtheners n whatnot, joints finished, rails trimmed up front

 

 

 

Next challenge is, I have a narrow body and not much room to make a fairly heavy car. I think a shakey weight right in the middle will help a lot ……...

[Pablo]

The D3 Hardbody website has new rules that pertain to this car here:

 

http://d3hardbodyrac.../hardbody-rules

 

Here are the new CAN AM - 60’s LE MANS rules that pertain to my Lola T70:

 

BODY

 

1. May use any 1/24 – 1/25 scale plastic model car kit for the original Can Am series, 1966-1974
(except Porsche 917's, which can race in the mid-engine class) and 60’s Le Mans cars.
2. May flatten sides below body belt line, but not beyond vertical.
3. May not alter wheel wells (bodies with side skirt covering wheel well area is allowed or can be
removed if it resembles real 1/1 race car)
4. Must have 3-D driver/interior, chassis not visible through interior.
5. Must use kit front and rear bumpers (if applicable) unless supported by photo documentation
6. Aero devices from kit or scratch built to resemble real car (documentation may be requested)
Cars with rear wing which Is not an integral part of the body must have at least 50% of the wing beyond
the rear portion of the body unless supported by photo documentation.
7. Must have front windshield and rear windows (if applicable, including quarter windows) from kit
or .007” thick (min.) clear plastic.
8. Body must extend beyond chassis when viewed from above. No part of chassis may be visible from
above and wider than the bottom portion of body. Body side panels cannot extend beyond vertical.
9. Body can be cut out (or modified) to provide clearance for spur gear, but gear must be covered.
Cannot trim bottom of body (no lowering of body).
10. Body must have 3 numbers

 

CHASSIS

 

1. May be anglewinder, sidewinder or inline.
2. Must be scratchbuilt using any materials.
3. Maximum chassis width 3.000”. Chassis cannot extend beyond body (bottom portion of body).
4. Wheelbase to be determined by center of wheel wells in body (plus or minus 1/16”).
Complete wheel/tire assembly must be visible in wheel well at a point level with axle centerline.
Bodies with side skirt covering wheel well area is allowed or can be removed if it resembles
real car.
5. Ground clearance - .050” rear min., .015” front min., measured under axles.

 

TIRES

 

1. Tires cannot extend beyond the body when viewed from above and cannot exceed 3.000” width.
2. Rear tire diameter, .950” minimum, maximum width .700”.
3. Front tire diameter, .850” minimum, minimum width .225”

 

MOTOR

 

1. Must use stock (sealed, no tampering) TSR D3, Falcon 7 or Retro Hawk motor.

[eshorer]

What maximum width will your Lola T70 allow without altering wheel wells, as per the rules? Close to the allowed 3"? Any surprises/complications in those rules? It's coming along nicely!

Eddie

[Pablo]

Thanks Eddie, it will be very close to 3". The rules are obviously well planned and I don't see any problems

[Bill from NH]

Thinking ahead, have you thought about what you're going to do for paint? Such as color(s), if your're going to in-house it, 2nd party it, etc, etc.

[Pablo]

The Revson car was white, the Tamiya body is white, as soon as the extra stickers arrive from my friend in Bulgaria I don't think I need much paint, do you?   

[Martin]

Polish that plastic, its the lightest and its chip proof.

[Pablo]

What type product do you recommend?

[Rotorranch]

What type product do you recommend?

Rotor

[Bill from NH]

The Revson car was white, the Tamiya body is white, as soon as the extra stickers arrive from my friend in Bulgaria I don't think I need much paint, do you?   

 

You could weather it like the Choti. A flat brown is all you'd need. 

[Pablo]

"Fowler Platform" complete - a 15 thou piece of brass sheet placed at ground zero, governed with .025 wire into .063 tube pieces. Designed to tune the car with weight

 

[Martin]

Number 2 Novus is all I ever use, that and a set of fine sandpaper. Like this. Not sure where I got mine.

Handy if you want to remove a mold line.

https://www.amazon.c...5265&hvpos=1o2

[Bill from NH]

Micro-Mark has carried Novus in the past, perhaps they still do. Some hobby shops may carry it also,

[Pablo]

Thank you 

[Rotorranch]

I got my Novus from ePay, the 3 bottle set with a polishing cloth, for about $20.00.

 

Rotor

 

https://www.ebay.com...TQAAOSw6QJdCEO4

[Bill from NH]

eBay currently has the 3 bottle sets, plus the rag & free shipping for as low as $11.50. The bottles could be smaller than yours, but there's plenty to polish at least a couple kits. Does Novus have a shelf life? 

 

I would check Hobby Lobby too.

[Rotorranch]

eBay currently has the 3 bottle sets, plus the rag & free shipping for as low as $11.50. The bottles could be smaller than yours, but there's plenty to polish at least a couple kits. Does Novus have a shelf life? 

 

I would check Hobby Lobby too.

 

Mine are the 8oz bottles. The cheaper ones I saw were the 2oz bottles.

 

Rotor

[Pablo]

Rear weight deck is .032 X 3/8 X 2 1/2". It's as wide and long as the limitations of the rules will allow with this body n chassis

 

 

Since I named my mid-section shakey "Fowler Platform" it's only fair to name this one "BP Platform" (boom) 

 

[Pablo]

.055 connecting wires do double duty by strengthening up the rear of the axle tube nest with an .047 cross-connector wire and they will allow the BP to wiggle a little once I install twin pieces of 3/32 tube

 

[Pablo]

BP Platform complete. Little bit of lift/wiggle waggle/left/right, but no droop

 

[eshorer]

FYI: There won't be a space for this class of car to run in the D3 Hardbody Nats at BPR in October, and there will most likely be a "2nd Chance" Short-track Nascar Enduro in November. So depending on when it can get done and out here, it can be tested and run in one of the Hardbody races before or after those two months. It's really looking good.

Eddie

[Pablo]

Thanks Eddie. It's coming to you the moment it's done.

 

Next step is front wheels/front axle assembly. Eddie, these Pro Track retro hard fronts are hard as a rock. I see everybody uses them at BP. Has anybody tried re-rubbering them with hard Wonder Rubber and coating with nail polish instead?

[eshorer]

Thanks Eddie. It's coming to you the moment it's done.

 

Next step is front wheels/front axle assembly. Eddie, these Pro Track retro hard fronts are hard as a rock. I see everybody uses them at BP. Has anybody tried re-rubbering them with hard Wonder Rubber and coating with nail polish instead?

 

Most use the hard Protrack fronts, and it's wise to round them off a bit. The exception would be the wider, somewhat softer hard rubber fronts used on the Short-track Nascar cars, where the tires stick out quite a ways past the width of the body. I'm not sure how much of a difference they make. I just assume they're used for the look. 

Eddie