57 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

I seem to acquire another of Dallas' cars for refurbishing every time I go to The Dungeon. This one has a 13uo motor, rewound and epoxied, in a light wire chassis and a sports car body. I track tested it today and the motor and chassis work pretty nice, so I plan to turn this into a sweet car

 

 

[Pablo]

Interesting intricate chassis design

 

 

Crudely flatted axle (with a mile of excess meat), rough axle spacers, destroyed Weldun 28T crown, and bent mag wheels with crusty rubber are going straight into the round file

 

 

Gimbal bushing on motor looks like it was goober - soldered to the bracket. Note the intricate bracket bracing. There is a nice car here

 

[Martin]

I like these original builds. Nice bracing and triangulation.

 

Do you think the body is original to the car, maybe the rear wheels and body were changed in its second life?

 

What is the body, Honker can Am maybe ??? 

[Bill from NH]

This is an interesting project. Much of the chassis looks to be .032 wire or is there some .047 used too?  What i find remarkable is the fact it's not all bent up. I would think that means either it never saw much track time or it handled real well on the tracks it ran. Another example of Dallas's scratchbuilding talents.

[bluecars]

Did it come from Buddy?

[Pablo]

The body isn't an antique and it isn't worth restoring or saving, so what it is doesn't matter. Yes, Red, Buddy gave it to me.

[Highnoon]

Birdcage Maserati design for sure.

 

[Ramcatlarry]

13UO - ?  Pablo, the can and axle bracket are Monogram from a 1/32 F-1/Midget.  Altered 13D, yes. Rewound - maybe.  The 'C' clip is missing to hold the motor to the bracket.

 

I first read about '13UO' motors as the soft cobalt magnet British 1/32 motors that were smaller than a 'C' can.

[Pablo]

You may be right - it may just be epoxy balanced but not rewound.

 

I know these type motors as 13UO. Never heard of a "13D"

 

https://www.electric...ock-p-5188.html

 

http://slotblog.net/...e-mabuchi-13uo/

 

It doesn't make sense to me putting a super small motor in a chassis and body that has plenty of room for a 16D. I may just remove the motor and save it for a skinny little car that demands it. Then install a mild 16D. We shall see.

[Bill from NH]

Exactly where are you going to put the "Pablo" plaque?   If you're going to rebuild that chassis, or a new one, to fit a bigger motor, you could always use a mild FK.

[havlicek]

You may be right - it may just be epoxy balanced but not rewound.

 

I know these type motors as 13uo. Never heard of a "13D"

 

https://www.electric...ock-p-5188.html

 

http://slotblog.net/...e-mabuchi-13uo/

 

It doesn't make sense to me putting a super small motor in a chassis and body that has plenty of room for a 16D. I may just remove the motor and save it for a skinny little car that demands it. Then install a mild 16D. We shall see.

 

The Mabuchi designation was 13UO.  There was no "13D".  Actually, I think the full designation might have been FJ13UO.

[Pablo]

This is an interesting project. Much of the chassis looks to be .032 wire or is there some .047 used too?  What i find remarkable is the fact it's not all bent up. I would think that means either it never saw much track time or it handled real well on the tracks it ran. Another example of Dallas's scratchbuilding talents.

 

As I dive into it, I'll let you know about the wire sizes and after a cleanup I'll show the engineering better.

FYI, to clarify, when I say "Dallas Jackson car(s)" all it means is the cars are from his collection.

I don't know if he ever scratchbuilt any of them himself.

 

Dallas had a tendency of "using whatever parts and means at his disposal" to assemble his cars. We all do it, to one degree or another, don't we? 

[Bill from NH]

In New England, we referred to the Mabuchi motor families as 13D, 16D, 26D, & 36D, regardless of the factory designation. But we didn't have the internet in those days either.

[slotbaker]

Mabuchi FT-13UO

Attached Images

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[havlicek]

Bingo!

[don.siegel]

Yep, but as Bill said, they're still more commonly referred to as 13D these days...  And I made the same mistake as Larry, thinking that the 13UO referred to the British "peanut" motors, with the soft cobalt magnets. 

 

Pablo, I assume this was a design to go super lightweight, and I would be tempted to keep it like that and see what you can do to make it run as well as possible. There are a couple references in the race reports to "super lightweight" designs with 13D motors, that ran with the big boys at least for a couple heats... until beaten or bent... The lightweight trend would have been more like 1966, and those rear wheels look like a later addition, altho a few of the early Thingies may have already had those steamroller wheels. 

 

There's even an article somewhere about a 1/32 F1 car with a lightened motor of this type that weighs in at a total of about 1-1/2 ounces! 

 

Don 

[Pablo]

Pablo, I assume this was a design to go super lightweight, and I would be tempted to keep it like that and see what you can do to make it run as well as possible. There are a couple references in the race reports to "super lightweight" designs with 13D motors, that ran with the big boys at least for a couple heats... until beaten or bent... 

Don 

 

I will keep that in mind and consider it, thanks Don 

[Bill from NH]

So is the 16D, 26D, & 36D Mabuchis misnamed too?  

[Ecurie Martini]

 

There's even an article somewhere about a 1/32 F1 car with a lightened motor of this type that weighs in at a total of about 1-1/2 ounces! 

 

Don 

 

42.5g is pretty damned light!  I once got a 1/32 P56 BRM down to about 50g but that was with a slightly modified FF 050 motor (can cut-outs) wheels drilled almost to lace, vac-form body and a pin guide.

 

Current experiments on the ultra light front - chassis build with thin wall SS hypodermic tubing

 

EM

[Pablo]

13UO extracted from bracket by Soder-Wicking the blobs with my Weller gun   7T brass pinion removed by destroying it (learned it from Swiss  )

 

The arm shaft has splines, and if I wanted to keep the gimbal bushing assembly stock, I'd be really careful. But I don't, so I won't  The shaft is really soft, the gimbal is junk, and the endbell is loose. So both bushings are gone. The EB bushing housing is double cracked. There won't be much left worth saving on this motor other than the can and the EB hardware.

 

No disappointment, just realism. If refurbishing slot cars was easy, your Aunt Edna would be doing it 

 

[Bill from NH]

60 years ago, I went to church with an Aunt Edna when I lived in Maine. She wasn't my aunt, but she was to about 20 of my neighborhood friends. We all called her Aunt Edna. She was more into knitting & dolls than slot cars. Everyone called her mother "grammy",

[Pablo]

I forgot to say, thanks to don.siegel for his input which convinced me the correct thing is to keep the 13UO. Like he said, the car was designed for it. With a light body and wheels it will be a sweet little car 

[Pablo]

As I suspected, motor has nothing salvageable except for can, gimbal housing, mags, and EB hardware. The comm has been slightly twisted to add some timing. Whoever built this car was thinking 

 

[slotbaker]

Looks like the car was a favourite, and got plenty of track time...

[don.siegel]

What are your plans for the motor Paul? The arm doesn't look too bad in fact... if you need a stock 13D endbell, I have a few extras (got a small batch years ago, all with a crack on the bearing housing of course - par for the course on these endbells). One period trick that you could try is to open out the can sides and install regular 16D magnets - might give you the best of both worlds! 

 

Don