57 replies to this topic

[havlicek]

  Like Don, I agree that staying with the 13UO is the best way to go here Pablo.  I mean, the whole vintage thing is really what this car is about.
 

What are your plans for the motor Paul? The arm doesn't look too bad in fact... if you need a stock 13D endbell, I have a few extras (got a small batch years ago, all with a crack on the bearing housing of course - par for the course on these endbells). One period trick that you could try is to open out the can sides and install regular 16D magnets - might give you the best of both worlds! 

 

Don 

For sure Don.  The end bells on these motors have even LESS material around the bushing and seem to crack even more frequently (*if that's possible!) than those on the 16D/26D/36D ones.  As an alternate, but less "period" way to go, minican magnets will fit right in with only a bit of grinding at the top and bottom edges.  With the soft "polyneos", that can even be done on some sandpaper placed on your table in minutes.  With the ceramics, a small diamond wheel will do the deed (*ceramics work better with stock or period rewinds for these).  It won't be correct, but on the outside, the motor will still be stock and the magnet upgrade alone makes for a heck of a bump in performance.  After that, just doing a static balance on the above arm would be the next big thing and would be correct and make for a much smoother and cooler running motor that draws noticeably less current.  Even the racers back then knew that "you win the race by finishing first...not necessarily by being the fastest"! 

[Pablo]

Thanks for the offer, Don, if I need it I know where you live    I may have one. Haven't decided exactly what to do but for sure it will be on the tame and smooth side.

[Bill from NH]

Could a Havlicek repair have saved the 13D endbell?

[Bill from NH]

When the plastic was new, it didn't crack.  

[Pablo]

My basic plan for the motor will be very similar to a 2008 Pablo 13uo build. Notice back in those days I mistakenly referred to it as a "13D" instead of a "13uo". Look at PdL's post #11:

 

http://slotblog.net/...ormula-one-13d/

 

Here we have the slot car version of "never discard anything - you will find a use for it within 7 years" theory    Somewhere within this pile of junk is a sweet motor for Dallas' car. (not to mention I have all sorts of discarded FK race motors with perfectly good magnets and arms) 

 

 

It's possible I may be able to make a great motor without John Havlicek's help. But don't think I won't ask for his help if I need it. No budget or time constraints here at The Ranch for Dallas' cars   

[Pablo]

Somebody 50 years ago loved this car enough to shim the mags with perfectly formed and sized 10 thou paper shims   

 

[Bill from NH]

If you end up needing an arm, rewind one similar to that you rewound for the F1 car you built Brian. Or add a few more turns. You're not building a speed demon with this car.  Does any of the AL gang know whether this car was constructed by Dallas or if it was built by someone else & he inherited it by some means?

[Martin]

Actually Bill this car does look like it could use some speed. To me this chassis looks like it could use a high down force (negative lift )Thingy body.

Choti like.

But of course that Paul's choice.

Attached Images

• 

[Bill from NH]

Martin, my comment was made to Pablo as if he was using a body similar to  that which came on it. The arm I mentioned didn't have many turns or wire, thus my comment for extra turns. I never saw this particular F1 car live, but I have seen a couple videos of it running on an Ohio Orange (Monarch).

[Pablo]

My posts #12 and #30 already covered all that.

[Pablo]

I'm seriously considering installing a Champion Hi-timed X12 armature into this 13 uo can, using a Pro-Slot "C" endbell and FK magnets. 

[Jaeger Team]

I'm seriously considering installing a Champion Hi-timed X12 armature into this 13 uo can, using a Pro-Slot "C" endbell and FK magnets. 

IIRC back in the days we used mura endbells milled to fit...and some very rare (in those times) cobalt magnets 

[Pablo]

Champion X12 armature in the 13uo can with modified Pro-Slot "C" endbell and FK magnets works fine  

 

New shielded flanged BB installed into the 13uo can gimbal gizmo, can and endbell modified, etc.

 

 

 

She draws 2.5 amps at 4 volts during breakin, and screams real happy when fed some volts 

[Pablo]

Now that I've made the decision to use the high-horsepower X12 / 13uo hybrid motor, I need to make it work. Yes, it presents challenges, but in my defense it's very lightweight, it's not a torque monster and if I gear the piss out of it, maybe it will be driveable    I'll probably use narrowed rear wheels, add some weight to the chassis, etc.

 

My attention turns to the birdcage .032 wire chassis. The more I examine it, the more I realize how sweet the craftsmanship is. I removed the oilites and O-Rings, sucked some solder blobs off, now she gets an SOS bath and a pre-refurb tumble 

 

Now, where did I put those doggone Slick 7 1/8 to 3/32 axle reducer bushings?     

 

[Pablo]

Nice and shiny, now I can see some very cool wire wraps on the front axle. All wire is .032 except, the rear "U" bracket brace and front axle are .047 and the wire torsion spring for the drop arm is .016

 

[Racer36]

This little rascal would have been a perfect fit for that car!

 

[Pablo]

It's not too late, Dennis, the car isn't spoken for yet. Send me a PM if interested 

 

I played around with circlips to attach the gimbal gizmo to the bracket, and remembered why the last time I did this I soldered the can to the bracket    The clips are a real chore and don't secure the motor enough anyway.

 

The front wheels cleaned up nice and they are keepers. If they need to be raised or lowered I'll simply bend the .047 axle to my liking.  Rear axle plan is a reducer bushing to 3/32 and a sleeved dyed black Parma pink crown. Body will probably be a Lotus 40.

 

Even after 14 hours of tumbling, the chassis still leeches rust and dirt. It didn't surprise me; it was just a pre-tumble to enable me to see and correct any structural flaws. I got the bracket face free of solder blobs and sanded it reasonably flat. The nubs up top were sliced off and smoothed. I found the first joint failure, and I'm sure there are a couple more ........ onward .... this is a fun refurb 

 

 

 

[Pablo]

Outisight OS-450 Can Am (Lexan) will fit this car perfectly 

 

[dc-65x]

Nice save on that chassis Pablo

[Pablo]

Thanks Capt. Rick 

 

Drop arm was tweaked so I made a new hinge assembly, extended the 1/2" GL to 3/4", and made some .025 wire reinforcements. It still needs more .025 bracing tomorrow ..........

 

 

 

 

 

[Pablo]

I know this all looks ugly. Oxidation oozes from every joint when I apply heat, which is to be expected from a chassis like this where the wire wasn't plated or tinned and then cleaned well to begin with. There are some hard dark patches of what I'm guessing is JB Weld that were apparently intended to repair broken or splitting joints. Just like a home with termite damage where the flipper slaps vinyl siding over it and the unsuspecting buyer pays 2 mil for a piece of junk   

Having said that, the chassis work is approaching assembly phase. .025 "L" wire pieces buttress the drop arm hinge

 

 

.025 wire piece drop arm limiter allows about 1/32" of drop

 

 

Slick 7 reducer bushings soldered home

 

[Bill from NH]

Oxidation & rust are part of this chassis' patina.You could always dust it with a spray bob of silver, black, or gold, but I'd rather you step on it first.

[Pablo]

Concur. I gave it a final carbon wire wheel touch-up, another SOS scrub, a WD-40 bath, and that's it.  Assembly begins tomorrow 

[Pablo]

Drop arm weights

 

 

Ever seen a 48 pitch 6 tooth angled steel pinion? My plan is to mate it with a 27T Parma crown and about a .760 OD wheel

 

[Bill from NH]

My 6T 48 pitch pinions were straight cut, made before angled pinions were manufactured. They were popular during one of the proxy race series.