60 replies to this topic

[Bags]

Hello all ! 
My name is Bags, I have owned and operated Wheatfield Raceway since 2000. It’s an Outlaw 31 foot drag strip. I came across a post here about brushless motor racing and seems like you guys are interested in it. I have been drag racing brushless motors for 3 years now. I have a way to reprogram a ESC into an on/off switch that is powered off the track with a slot car controller or even a simple push button. So I’m here to tell you it has been done, it is very consistent, there is no maintenance on the motor, they are / can be very powerful ! I have raced 3100, 4100, 5300 kv motors on 16.2 vdc. They do stop in a properly kept shutdown without a problem. The motors are 1 inch in dia. So they fit a lot of the current chassis available. This switch will power a110 watt sensor less brushless motor. I have them mounted in an in-line and angle winder hardbody door car. Also run a dragster with one. The switch is set and can’t be tampered with. I did “play” with a AA funny car with a 8000 kv motor in it ......I did say play. It put out more power than any brushed motor I’ve have seen. If it would only hookup lol !

 

I use Maxx power and Castle Creation motors. The Castle motors are quad rotor and have plenty of bang. The Maxx motors are single rotor and work well in bracket racing or index. 
 

I do offer this whole setup for sale or just the switch if that works for you. Maxx motors are $40 Castle motors are $50 . The switch mailed is $85 .

 Keep em Green !

Bags

[gotboostedvr6]

Pics!

[Bags]

I’ll try and put some on here.....I’m not real geeky when it comes to pics.

[NSwanberg]

kv mean kilo-volts to me as in 1,000 volts. Did you mean rpm?

[Bags]

KV = RPM x  voltage. Ok now you have a 4100 kv motor, the kv rating is 4100 rpm per 1 vdc applied to the motor. So we multiply 4100 x 16.2 vdc = 66,420 rpm. That’s how fast the motor will turn. These motors have a real power “ curve “ unlike the brushed motors that spike as soon as power is applied. These motors are used in RC planes and ground vehicles. They are designed to pull/push 2.5 pounds of trucks and cars around. We are loading this setup in a 150 gram slot car ! We are feeding it 16.2 VDC. More than twice the volts that the battery packs used in the RC world. It’s a new world for sure, takes a little bit to get used to because it’s not a brushed motor. They leave the line lazy but turn on and go ! The motor  makes power as it goes down the track the timing advances .

[gotboostedvr6]

Email me pics. I'll post them.

I sent you a message.

[Bags]

Hi David I’m working on the pics should be up today sometime. Sorry about the confusion, I’m new here and don’t know all the ins and outs of this site yet. I’m working on it. 

[Bags]

Here are pictures of two brushless builds.

 

[Bags]

Here's the other one.

 

[Bags]

Side view.

 

[MSwiss]

Nice job getting your pics posted.

 

Is the $85 "switch", the item in front of the motor, in the 'Cuda?

 

Or is it something that you hook up to the track?

[Bags]

Yes that is the switch.

[MSwiss]

So for $125 - $135, you would have a drag car that would never need motor maintenance?

Any estimate on how many passes, you've made, with these 2 cars?

[Bags]

I’m willing to bet well over 800 passes on each car...only oiled them one time.

[MSwiss]

Thanks for the info.

 

What's the round thing on top of the motors, that looks like a magnet?

 

Is that stock, on the motor?

[Bags]

Here are some screen shots of the times during the early testing phase using a 8000kv. This was a 1/4 mile track.

Attached Images

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[Bags]

Mike
I found out that these motors search for a starting point inside the can or pulse to that spot. It could be back or reverse of where the rotor is positioned. We cant race a car that goes backward before it launches forward, we get a real bad reaction time. So to stop that I glued a ceramic mag to the can to hold the rotor from backing up to a start point. Kinda acts like a trans brake on a real car. 

[Bags]

I’m going to make a correction on the motors guys. 
Maxx Products has the blue motors they are single mag rotor 3600 4100 and 5400 kv  $40

Castle Creation  motors quad mag rotor 4100 5300 and 8200 kv 

Sorry about misinformation on my part above.

The magnet material on the rotors is neodymium .

Keep em Green!

Bags

[Eddie Fleming]

Is the price in post #1 with the external magnet installed or not?

[Bags]

Hi Ed 

yes I ship with the magnet installed, it’s just glued on the can so it could be moved around for your application. It likes to live in the middle of the can. If you look at the Cuda pic you will see a brass REHCo. Motor bracket that I used in a DRS 176 inline chassis. I also include that to make it a bit easier to modify a chassis. Kinda like just solder it in place or build off of it if you want. The dragster is built from one. 

[Bags]

Some of the things I have learned about brushless racing.

These cars are pretty much no glue on the starting line. The tires need to be cleaned periodically , you will find out that too much glue will bog them on the start. But you will need glue down the track to keep it from spinning. The farther it goes the more power it makes.

 

Make sure you put spacers in between the crown gear and bushing/bearing. These motors will push the gear and the pinion will act like a grinder on it. Been there did that !

 

Dont let any of the wires touch each other or a ground. This will cause the switch to pop making it useless , might not hurt the motor. Did that too !

 

Make sure the pinion slides on the shaft freely so you can put it where it needs to be. I buff the shaft with sandpaper and open the hole in the pinion gear with a puller. Too much heat will damage the magnet and cause it to fail. Don’t try and tap or press the gear on either same result will happen. Yeah I did that too! 
 

Please learn from my mistakes....it cost me so it won’t cost you.

 

Keep em Green !

Bags

[Bags]

AND the wires to the guide flag and to the motor from the switch are long, more than needed. Don’t try and remove them from the switch by unsoldering them ! The solder is very high temp stuff that was applied by a machine. Heat kills ! The wires can be cut after the heat shrink and soldered to the motor, just have to wrap tape around them for insulation. I wiped off some of the components on the switch trying to get the wires off....yeah I know oppps ! POOF !

 

The motors come with R/C connectors on them, if you buy your own don’t cut the wire to remove them. Unsolder them, the motor manufacturer says leave the length. I think it’s a heat thing ? 
 

Keep em Green !

 Bags

[Bags]

https://youtu.be/lTD_Mxw-Du0

[Charley]

So Tom, you make the "switch"? Or is it something we can buy from our local RC Hobby Shop?

Have you tried this in a "slip joint" dragster yet?

 

Thanks,

Charley

[Bags]

Well Charley  I have a brushless setup in the red Budweiser rail pic above. It works very good in a slipper.

As far as you going to the R/C shop and buying an ESC, it won’t work without a flashover, turning it into a switch.

You will find out that it’s not quite as easy as it looks and sounds. It took a lot of “doing “ to get where we are today with this technology. 
What seems to be the problem with running a brushless motor in a slot car? This thread has more than enough looks but not many replies or inquiries. Are you guys that afraid of it? 
 

We are in the process of putting a new video together to show more of how these run.