50 replies to this topic

[Zippity]

I'd love to see a couple of close-up shots showing how the track sections are joined together.

 

How do you keep the sections flush with each other?

 

How are you going to braid the track? In sections or as one complete run?

 

What are you going to use to stick the braid to the track?

 

So many questions, but I have a real "thing" for building tracks.

 

Congratulations! - yours is looking great 

[MSwiss]

Posts #2 and #4 clearly show the joining technique.

Two planed 2 X 4's, with a pine key or tongue, aligning them, and 3 bolts holding them together.

[Bob Appelle]

Thanks Mike, you explained it much better than I could have.

[MSwiss]

Nice job on the track, Bob.

I envy those planed 2 X 4's.

Question....can you and have you planed MDF.

IOW, is it possible?

[Bob Appelle]

I handled the easy tasks, my neighbor has a planer. I'll post the post planing photo and some photos of the fixture Rick made to do the elliptical routing in the turns. Rick also routed the outside lane first and made another fixture to set in the first lane to route the second.

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[Bob Appelle]

lesson number one, don't help a machinist build something out of wood unless your good a math. example, Hey Bob, cut me 4 2x4's 19.250, ok 19 and 1/4 .  LOL We made it through this build and still remain friends.

[Bob Appelle]

Over the last 40 plus years of being friends with Rick, nothing he builds surprises me. I guess I've just learned to accept it, it's always nice.

[don.siegel]

That's a very professional looking track, thanks for all the pics. 

 

Don 

[Bob Appelle]

If you look closely you can see all the additional planed 2x4's as supports to mount the legs. If a lot is good, Too much is just right. I think there are 35 sets of supports. We also installed 3 power taps and a Track Mate. I'd post a video but it won't work. I have a Mac computer and a Andriod phone.

[MattD]

Great build and rivals about  any home built track I've ever seen.    I learned a lot reading what others posted and am adding in what I can that might help another builder.   My track is clearly not as nice as Bob's track.   I'm not much of a finish carpenter, but I was able to figure out  how to build a track by myself and work out problems I ran into.   Maybe my info can help somebody else.

 

MDF is an easy product to work with, you can make it do about anything you want.     Sand, fill, sand,, glue.   

 

The tongue and groove is no doubt the best way to square two track pieces with each other and keep perfect alignment.      Being a poor carpenter, I found it very easy to put the under track  2X4's at each end flush with the edge of the track.    Line up two sections and then clamp them tight.   Dill a 1/2 inch hole at each edge thru both of the abutted 2X4's.    Drive a piece of 1/2 inch dowel rod thru the hole(tight fit).   Then drill both pieces at the outer edge for 3/8 inch bolt and tighten them pretty snug.   Bolts hold track pieces tightly together.   Dowel rods keep perfect alignment.

 

I used under track 2X4's about everey 16-18 inches.   You will want them fairly close as that makes the wall attachment much easier.

 

I then braided the track in one solid run.   I figured nobody would ever want this track.   If they did it wouldn't be hard to cut braid at a couple sections and when reassembled just use the pass thru  method  to bridge the gap where the joints are.    Since a used track is only worth about $100. if anything.   An industrious new owner ought to not mind buying $40 worth of braid and doing a little work.   A solid braid run really makes a smooth track.

 

Bob what are lane centers and is the track braided or taped?     Sure is a nice looking job.

 

I tried using a nail gun and glue for assembly, but ended up preferring screws and glue and it held much better.

[Bob Appelle]

I think your use of the Lowell rods works just fine. By the way, it's not my track, i just helped my friend Rick build it. My input on how to build it was minimal.

[airhead]

These are some of the jigs and fixtures I used in building my tracks

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[Bob Appelle]

Billy, Your track looks great, you sure maximized your space, how many feet 110.?

[airhead]

The area I had was 18' X 40' I made the track 17 X 35 allowing for turnmarshels and pit area.

I drew it on the floor many times before settling on the design 

Here are some of the track layouts I made to try before settling  on  the 150'  the tool I used to mark the track on the floor is shown with the soap stone on each end.

 The 3rd. drawing is the one I choice.  all the drawings were made to fit in 17'X 35' 

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[MSwiss]

Bob,
Your friend is a handy guy.

He built a lot of interesting jigs.

That is one serious jointer/planer.

I'm kind of surprised he didn't stagger the joining system.

[MattD]

Billy, every time I see pix of your track, it looks like a great track to race on.   I think a track that is too complicated takes away a lot of the fun.       Everybody being able to run lap after lap is sure fun.   A car out of the slot every lap or two  really slows things down and stops the flow.

 

Great tracks

[MSwiss]

Matt,
For your particular situation, that may be true.

But your assuming that twisty tracks leads to more deslots.

A lot has to do with the skill level of the drivers, and the performance capabilities of the car.

But the bottom simple comment, made recently by Richard Payne, is the one I also go by.

All slot racing is good.

No need to declare ones is a superior form of it.

[Rotorranch]

Billy's track is a lot faster than I thought!!!

I can't wait to get back down there and run with some old and new friends!!!

Rotor

[Zippity]

A couple of questions relating to the tongue and groove joint.

 

Is the tongue an additional piece of wood attached to one of the 2 x 4?

 

If so, how was it attached?

 

How did you cut/route the dado?

 

[Bob Appelle]

Ron, the joints were done on a table saw with a Dado bit, We cut the young piece out of 8 foot 1x6 poplar. They are a tight slip fit. If you look at the photos you'll see that every section is supported with many legs. The track is 78 feet and I think there are 35 legs.  It's real solid.

[Zippity]

Thanks, Bob.

 

I really appreciate your clarification

[MattD]

Mike, I was applying my statements to the guys I race with.  I didn't mean that to apply to everybody.    I agree driver talent can make a twisty track great.  Unfortunately the guys I race with don't have that talent.  You know the difference between racing the track and trying to race the car next to you.   My guys won't let up and end up in the wall.    I did quite a bit of work to make my track easy to drive for that reason!!      

 

Yes,  all slot racing is good.

[axman]

MattD.. Your track is certainly different. good on you having a go at building.. Looks like the track has a fun "Coney Island" feel to it with the humps and turns. I see you used MDF as fencing.. certainly a lot easier to work than Masonite.. In one of your previous posts you mentioned fence angle.. I actually like to keep my fences at 90 degrees to the track surface.. yes, you use more material but it helps keep the track surface in shape and is a better barrier re cars not launching off the track.   

[NSwanberg]

Over the last 40 plus years of being friends with Rick, nothing he builds surprises me. I guess I've just learned to accept it, it's always nice.

 

 

Bob, Did you two remember to turn the pilot light and gas off to the water heater before you painted the track?

[rvec]

Bob,

Great looking track.