88 replies to this topic

[Martin]

Shake N’ Bake  

[Pablo]

Martin, you are my best friend, Shake n Bake    GET SOME!!!

 

[Martin]

Love that movie

[Pablo]

Reese Bobby: "If you ain't first, you're last" 

 

 

Spectacular paint by Noose   

 

 

#13 is ready to go for the World Challenge drag proxy event

 

[Martin]

Looking good Pablo.  Been waiting for this match up since 1967.

Gotta love Mini's.  Any thoughts of doing a road race version?

 

[Dan Searcy]

That looks great Pablo.  Hopefully, you'll update us on how it performs.

[Pablo]

Thanks Dan 

 

 Any thoughts of doing a road race version?

 

You're looking at it. All I'd have to do it slice off the wheelie bars 

[nomad2race]

Larry and Steve, both excellent posts with great questions and info. I have thought about these issues for years.

Danny Zona says it best - "Lap times are the only truth. Everything else is just theory"

 

I think that is what makes this interesting, all kinds of theories and approaches can be tried, Since there are no drivers or marshals to affect results, truth will win out.

 

Jim C.

 

 

 

[Pablo]

This car is for sale. PM me if interested for pricing.

Pablo

[Pablo]

My racing buddy John Clow bought the car (outside of Slotblog). First track test - he says it's really powerful but it's shimmying coming off the line. Here is what I suggested for track test #2 next weekend:

 

1. Check the ride height (flag spacers) ON THE ACTUAL TRACK SURFACE. If the front wheels are touching too hard, the flag isn’t fully planted. The fronts should only touch when the car tilts. As an alternative method to adjust the fronts without messing with spacers, the axles are brass, they can be bent slightly up or down by hand.

 

2. Rear tires maybe too soft and too much glue. Try a different harder narrower wheel and/or narrow the rubber - see if that helps or hurts.

 

3. Check the upper motor can brace. If it is busted, the car will bunny hop and fishtail bad.

 

4. Check the wheelie bar O-Rings, at the starting line - they should be about 1/16 off the track surface. The wires can be bent up or down by hand.

[Bill from NH]

Does 1/6 above need a second 1?

[MSwiss]

With wheelie bar wheels, the general consensus is they need to be a business card thickness above the track surface.

When you tap on them, they should move a tiny bit.

[Pablo]

Does 1/6 above need a second 1?

 

Yes thank you my friends 

[Pablo]

I think John found the source of the "shimmying" problem - gear-stripping horsepower of the Havlicek peanut monster motor was too much for a lightweight aluminum spur LOL  There may be other factors that caused this, I don't know. So I'm not going to blame the gear until I inspect the car. It is coming back to The Ranch for a tune up and probably a re-think of the gears.

 

 

 

[Rotorranch]

I've never seen one do that before... And that looks like the same one I put on my drag car. 

 

Rotor

[Tim Neja]

You may be getting a bit of chassis flex with only .055 single rail.  Perhaps putting a doubler rail  would solve that shimmy problem also?  Looks really cool--but Ricky wasn't a drag racer!!! 

[Martin]

That gear looks really weak. Like they over did it on the lighting pockets IMO.

 

Any flex in aluminum will always lead to failure.

 

How many runs did it take to produce this failure.

 

P.S. your motor to axle tube look good, hard to imagine flex there.

If you did suspect chassis flex? the corner of the can and axle tube look really close so you could solder at that point just to be sure. 

[MSwiss]

Probably too much power for too short of a car, even with wheelie bars.

You can try it with a much less powerful motor like a Minibrute, or send it to me.

I can try it on as low as 9V, on my strip to see if it's ornery at all speeds.

[Racer36]

Probably too much power for too short of a car, even with wheelie bars.

You can try it with a much less powerful motor like a Minibrute, or send it to me.

I can try it on as low as 9V, on my strip to see if it's ornery at all speeds.

Ornery at all speeds….sounds like my ex!

[Pablo]

All good info, thanks everybody! Car will be here soon.

 

Parts failure for some is a reason to get mad. For me it's an opportunity to improve 

 

Shake n Bake

[Pablo]

Found the main problem - sloppy left side rear axle ball bearing and the axle OD is out of spec. It was sloppy in the setup and the power of the G20 motor made it fail. Not a gear problem. Water under the bridge. I'll install a new set of Slick7 racing bushings, a new axle, and a new spur gear

 

 

Inspection reveals a combination of what you guys said, too much flex and too much power for a short car. Thanks for your great inputs. I will stiffen the rails 

 

Big gouge in one of the rear tires. Don't know how it happened but I'm going to install new rubber on both rears no questions asked

 

 

Owner requested different front wheels, which he supplied (Pro-Track). The rubber is dry and cracked so I'm soaking them off along with the rears as we speak

 

[Pablo]

New tires on the Pro-Track rims will be JK Naturals rear and Chicagoland Raceway Wonder WXXX CR020 up front

 

 

 

 

[Pablo]

The source of the spur shredding problem - axle was out of spec, not a Koford, and the left ball bearing was sloppy. I take the blame. Lesson learned, be careful to use the best parts on a high powered motor. I got careless and I paid the price LOL

 

New Slick7 bushings are in and new axle is cut to size and ready. New 46T spur is en-route from PCH

 

 

Swiss plated .047 wire pieces married to the main .055 rail set to stiffen things up

 

[Pablo]

All wheels rough cut and allowed to cure/settle. Owner requested the rears as narrow as the rims allow, and bigger fronts to "fill up" the wheel wells. Rears will end up about .9 OD X .5" wide and fronts .75 OD X .25 wide

 

 

 

[Bill from NH]

F.Y.I,  I saw yesterday on FB that both Bud Greene & Greg Gilbert are drag racing with the Slot Car Club of South Alabama. I didn't notice his name mentioned, perhaps John drag races with them too.