85 replies to this topic

[TSR]

Except for the modern lead wires, I like this Lotus very much. The paint also is much closer to what they really looked like in the day. Very nice, but in dire need of wheel inserts...

If one is allowed to lend a little critic of His Majesty's jewels of course.

[Edo]

Thanks, much obliged gentlemen.

Dokk, you musta forgatto your lunettos 'cause the inserts are there: BWA Lotuses, if you don't mind. Flat black, with knock-offs in silver.

An amazing paint job by KETS Inc.

His H. the E.

PS: Indeed the lead wires are modern, so is the faux Cox guide. AND the tires are way too wide for the period. But it's a poetic license, if you will.

[TSR]

Indeed, I did not look close enough at the lower pics, I was blinded by the one without the insert...

And poetic license is OK of course.

[endbelldrive]

Glad to see those old beater frames have all the trimmings added to them. Built them from memory back in the early 1990s when I got my hands on a couple of NOS inline brackets. Retro wheels and bodies weren't readily available to me back then so these projects were a real labor of love.

[Edo]

Gentlemen,

Let's try again. Here's an Electric Dreams Dynamic Lotus 40 body replica painted by Jairus Watson.

The body is mounted on a 1966 Bill Steube Jr four-rail sportscar chassis by Steve Okeefe, showcased here:

Arodyn's site





Wheels, fronts and rears, are Riggen; guide and crown are Cox:





Motor is a Russkit 23 can with a "funny" arm which has each rotor marked differently:







Anyone can explain the meaning of those markings? Fate?

BTW the motor is very frisky but tends to get very hot after a few laps.

Here the model on the track:







Regards,

Edo

[TSR]

Your Edoness,

It more than likely means "40 turns per pole of double 32AWG wire". The 34 might be a number in a little book explaining what was done to the arm as far as prep, timing, cured temperature, type of bean sauce in which the epoxy was cured, and other relevant information.

But of course this is pure speculation from someone who used to do just that to his arms/motors in the 1960s.

[Edo]

Gee Dokk,

Then it's really true what they say about you: meaning you know e-v-e-r-y-t-h-i-n-g!

Let's see if you know which one of those Mura arms needs professional attention:









See, I'm assembling more cars and we don't want to use a bad arm for their motor assembly, do we?

[gascarnut]

BTW the motor is very frisky but tends to get very hot after a few laps.

Are you sure you have it rotating in the correct direction?

[TSR]

Sire The E,

At least one of these Mura "Magnum 88" and Tradeship (the one with the smaller comm) armatures needs to have its commutator tabs re-soldered properly. Maybe two.

If you bring them to me in Aix next week, I will do that for you.

[Edo]

Are you sure you have it rotating in the correct direction?

Hi Dennis,

Please correct me if I'm wrong:



The direction of the arm advance IS the direction of the motor rotation, like in the pic above, is it not?

Regards,

E.

[Howmet TX]

Your Majesty...

I hope you can keep one of those arms for a very special contraption that will be headed your way soon. In a very similar vein to these delightful sleds.

Funny how great minds often think alike, ain't it?

[Prof. Fate]

Hi

Cannot add much here, good info from our has-been moto friend.

For the heat, a double 32 is very hot for the stock magnets, well... too hot. I would check the magnets and at least zap them if you have the equipment. Even so, this is a one-race arm.

I had forgotten how bad factory arms could look in '66-7, for your four loose arms. Besides the solder, at least two of these look like they were hand-wound, but not in the good way. The good way was using rotating fixtures to get the wire smooth and even. This looks like barb wire, guy held the arm in his left and and wound with his right. I don't think I would run any of these arms, they look like grenades with the pin pulled.

Fate

[endbelldrive]

Cannot add much here, good info from our has-been moto friend.

For the heat, a double 32 is very hot for the stock magnets, well... too hot. I would check the magnets and at least zap them if you have the equipment. Even so, this is a one-race arm.

Has-been??

I was waiting for you to weigh in on this topic. That seems like an aggressive wind for that set up and time period. Any pre-Arco magnet suggestions? Would Hemi mags be better than the stock Mabooches?

[Pablo]

My favorite is the Gurney/Suzuki #11 car.

Thanks for showing, Edo.

[Prof. Fate]

Hi

Like P, I love motorcycles, especially the small two-strokes. P stayed the right size for bikes, when I went from 5' 2 to 5' 11 (and 185) when 14 and 15, I realized my bike racer days were a no-show. So, I like to tease P about this. I loved playing football, but bikes... oh, bikes.

Anyway, what we did in the day was a lot of experimentation. I had the advantage over most with a gaussmeter( my dad was an electronics geek). Initially, I treated motors like raw materials and meausured my magnets. And SOMETIMES, the French aftermarket mags were better than stock. And the broken Arcos. The Hemi magnets were the ones that game in late '66 that gave me consistently stronger magnets until early '67 with "proper" Champion 16D magnets.

The problem is that even a 32 or 31 was hot until the Hemi magnets. Tried everything, shimming, metal shimming. With the 13U cans I even cut the sides out to fit thicker magnets. When Mura and Champion started coming out with actual better ceramics, it was a still a magnet race.

And a race to get the endbell to live.

With a 32d/essentially a 29, it might live for 20 minutes of hard running in a light car. With good magnets.

But the issue to me these days is the point of the car you are restoring or recreating. If you plan on running it with minimal maintainence/rebuilding, then a milder wind is called for. These days, I usually run a couple wire sizes smaller in the motor for this reason. The drop in lap times isn't that bad. And, of course, the track matters. On the BP flat track the power issue is less dramatic, and especially on the Kingleman, than on the King.

In the day I did run 28 winds in the period with Hemi motors, but it sometimes meant that the motor would have something fail before the end of the race. This was especially a problem for me as a poor qualifier (or late arrival) where I would work through many mains to make the money main.

I once on an American orange track in a mall, worked my way from the N to win the A this way. In this race, the A through D were eight heats, E through N were four heats. So I used a pretty mild motor in the lower mains and four fresh motors in the upper mains.

Fate

[endbelldrive]

Hi
...But the issue to me these days is the point of the car you are restoring or recreating. If you plan on running it with minimal maintainence/rebuilding, then a milder wind is called for. These days, I usually run a couple wire sizes smaller in the motor for this reason. The drop in lap times isn't that bad. And, of course, the track matters. On the BP flat track the power issue is less dramatic, and especially on the Kingleman, than on the King.

In the day I did run 28 winds in the period with Hemi motors, but it sometimes meant that the motor would have something fail before the end of the race. This was especially a problem for me as a poor qualifier (or late arrival) where I would work through many mains to make the money main.

I once on an American orange track in a mall, worked my way from the N to win the A this way. In this race, the A through D were eight heats, E through N were four heats. So I used a pretty mild motor in the lower mains and four fresh motors in the upper mains.

Thanks, Rocky. I haven't picked up a soldering iron for the last nine months... so to get back into the swing of things... I'm going to be building a couple replicas of 1966 West Coast scratchbuilts for myself... using either repro or affordable NOS components... trying to keep the price in the same ballpark as a Super 16D Flexicar. That will mean relegating my original 1966 rewinds to the display case and tossing together some visual replica daily drivers with milder winds and Hemi mags or (gasp!) modern 16D mags . Hopefully they will run cool enough for the old endbells to survive with no spring post protectors as per 1966.

[Edo]

Gentlemen,

Today we're resuming this thread about inlines after my feeble attempt at anglewinders was a failure (judging by the little participation we had despite the beauty of the Lotus 47).

Anyway, time ago, while perusing vintage slot magazines, I saw this March 1967 MC&S (or was it CM?) with a very interesting chassis depicted:



I also had a cute original Ford GT40 body (perphaps Dokk could get off his rocking chair and tell us who made it ).




(Interior by Jairus Watson)

And a SuperCute Mura 44 mags can which Master Havlicek made very pretty and rewound with 50t of 29AWG:





Endbell is a Mabuchi with ball bearing:



Sure thing, I called upon Meister Jairus to whip that chassis up for it and here is the assembly:







Fronts are BuzCo and rears are Riggen:



And here on my track:







Ciao for now,

E

[TSR]

Chris Chan would be proud of you, Sire.

[Jairus]

Very nice, Mr Edo! Love that motor, John...

[Edo]

Thanks, Dokk, but who made that body?

Love that motor, John...

IT'S MINE now! And I have another one like it, which is going into a Duck Thingie!

Wait and see!

Notorious E

[TSR]

It's a Lancer GT40 and you got it already painted from... me!

[One_Track_Mind]

Lovely car, Edo!

Now, we know where that mystery motor went that John built up!

Please, keep 'em coming!... BTW the anglewinder is nice but just doesn't fit right in your collection of inlines.

[havlicek]

Yowsa! How cool is this that Edo, Jairus and myself are all batting for the same team?! (of course, I'm only on the pit crew) Lovely car your Thingieness...er...your Inlineprocariness!

Now, we know where that mystery motor went that John built up!

Brian...it's tough being in on these "black ops" projects

-john

[Edo]

I haven't picked up a soldering iron for the last nine months...

Bad boy Bob!

Anyway, I've been bad too! I hope you remember the chassis on the left you gave me 3 or 4 years ago:



Well, here it is all mounted:



Motor is a 26D tuned by SVP, which was available early last year on Ebay:



Body is a MacKee repopped by John Dilworth and painted by Jairus :





And here on the track:







The MacKee might be a bit of a poetic license on an inline, what do you say Bob?

Ciao Bob, and thanks again!

[Tex]

Looks cool with the motor exposed like that. It might only look cool because the motor is black as is the body; if the motor were yellow, it might not strike me as so "cool"... dunno. Anyway, the Kingie has nice cars!