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Soldering Irons


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#51 slotcarone

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 09:17 AM

:D I agree with Rick - if you use a copper or brass mesh to clean the tip it will last much longer and you will always have a shiny clean tip to solder with. The sponges only keep spreading the same residue around over and over.

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#52 Jairus

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 09:31 AM

I use a brass brush to clean my tips and they do last longer than a sponge.

The iron coil broke from the handle within the first couple of months. The design I had used raised screw mounts to allow air to circulate the bottom end to protect the wires from over-heating. The screws are only 1/4 inch long so when they broke out of the handle I was left with a hot iron swinging around on the end of the wires.

To fix I ground down the handle and redrilled the holes. The coil held onto the handle for a couple more months before quiting. The wires inside are fine, but I get no continuity from the coil when checked with an ohm meter.

Went through only one tip but generally I feel even a wire coil should last longer than five months.

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#53 Pablo

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 09:38 AM

Maybe you are just tough on irons. :) Get some sleep. ;)

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#54 GTPJoe

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 09:53 AM

Hi Les!!

Sir, the blue handle Hakko is that the one called the MACH 1 by Hakko?? Part #918M-V12??

Thanks!!

Hakko_MACH_1.jpg

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#55 MantaRay

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 10:10 AM

I suggest the Hakko 936-13

The decals are not installed. It comes with two tips. Be sure to get the 936-13, it has the larger/hotter tip. Great price, free shipping.

Posted Image
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#56 GTPJoe

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 10:23 AM

Ray,

Yeah, that's a real nice unit. And adjustable temp too, I like!!

Thanks...

GTP Joe Connolly

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#57 Don Weaver

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 10:29 AM

Went through only one tip but generally I feel even a wire coil should last longer than 5 months.

Jairus,

The Inland 60121 I suggested earlier has a ceramic element instead of heating coils. I built six chassis in the last two months and it's still like brand new, even the tip. Try and find an iron with the ceramic element.

Don Weaver

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#58 Jairus

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 10:32 AM

Will do, thanks Don.
:)

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#59 The Bugman

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 10:40 AM

And don't waste your $$$$ on a Hakko red handled 60w iron (about $25), another pile of junk... lasted about three months, with only minimal usage. Now it's in the junk pile, too.

The Inland 100w is good but the handle gets sooooooooooo freakin' hot ,impossible to hold, so guess I'll try a blue handle Hakko next...

Thanks for all the great input, guys.
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#60 Jairus

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 10:57 AM

Yes, I noticed that about the handle, too! Freaking thing glowed too and that was weird. I don't think I need a 100 watt iron after all. Going with an 80w next and ceramic if I can find it.

Inland web site says that my iron has a one year warranty so I sent an email. We shall see...

In the meantime, I am heading down to Norvac Electronics for another temporary iron while a new better one is found.

Thanks for all the tips, guys. :)

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#61 Johnny

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 11:44 AM

I have switched from the Ungar to the Blue Hakko Dash (bought from Roger at MidAmerica...), and I will never go back.
The Hakko has been much nicer to use so far! :D :D
Best Regards,

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#62 Jairus

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 11:54 AM

Update:
Inland responded pretty quick with an address with which to send the dead iron for a replacement.
Yeah I'll be getting another poor iron as a replacement but now I will have at least a couple to choose from.

Address to send any Inland iron to is:

Inland Craft
32052 Edward Drive
Madison Heights
MI 48071
Attn. Jerry

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#63 MantaRay

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 12:00 PM

Hakko "Dash" is the blue one that is best.............the N454 is the hottest model.
http://www.hakkousa....,...2493&Page=2
Posted Image
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#64 Noose

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 12:08 PM

I haven' had any problems with my Inland. Yes, they are hot for sure.

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#65 gascarnut

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 12:58 PM

For what it's worth, I am one of those who has had no major issues with Weller/Ungar irons.

I have two, one is a 45Watt, one is a 50Watt. The 50Watt iron has built about 40 frames in the last year, has been left on overnight twice and still works perfectly with no degradation of the cladding on the tip. I can take a photo if anyone is interested. Both irons have always been used with a Weller temp controller, and I find that the only time I ever need to turn the 50 Watter up full is when soldering really big pieces of .062 brass. Normally is it set at about 60% of full capacity.

What has happened once is that the contact inside the Weller handle started giving trouble. There is a spring-loaded contact inside that connects the handle to the bottom of the heater, and on one of my handles this started losing connectivity. I opened the handle up and hard-wired it, but for the cost of a handle I could as easily have bought a new one.

I think one reason for my success has been this:

Posted Image

No wet sponge, just this tip cleaner and a brass-bristle brush to rub it down, and the tip stays perfect.

I also found a good supplier of Weller/Ungar parts: Action Electronics
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#66 John Streisguth

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 01:02 PM

They must not be making the Ungar irons like they used to. I still have one that I bought back in the early 70's. No slots from about 73 to 88, then I have used it off and on since then (not much need while I was doing HO scale). I recently built 3 retro chassis, plenty of heat, although I have a hard time keeping the tip from crapping up. It's too bad they don't seem to be as sturdy as they once were.
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#67 tonyp

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 02:12 PM

The current Weller/Ungars are junk. We used them here for battery assembly and the tips would burn through right away. Not so with the Inland. I switched to a Inland a year ago and it is still going strong. I clean the tip with a sponge and probably take worse care of it than most people.

You can't beat the heat.

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#68 MSwiss

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 03:08 PM

I've sold about 15-20 of the Inland 60105 and Jairus has been the only who has had a problem.
Still, it's unfortunate and hopefully Inland will make good on it.

IMHO, the Hakko "Dash" and especially the 936 combo are very nice but just don't get
hot enough for heavy brass use.

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#69 JerseyJohn

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 05:44 PM

Based On what I read a year ago on the blog. I purchased in this order.
1- Weller/ Unger
2- Hacko 936
3- Hacko 956
4- Inland 60105 ( bought 2, each w/ differnt tips.

The Inland by far will heat .064 brass like a torch, which is great for building.
The Hakko 955 is a great track unit for repairs and pinions because it heats fast.
I use both with a controller.

regards JJ
 

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#70 Richie

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 07:03 PM

I bought the 936 combo, absolutely love it so far!!! I ordered from the link that was posted on here for 79.95

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#71 The Bugman

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 08:42 PM

I've sold about 15-20 of the Inland 60105 and Jairus has been the only who has had a problem.
Still, it's unfortunate and hopefully Inland will make good on it.

IMHO, the Hakko "Dash" and especially the 936 combo are very nice but just don't get
hot enough for heavy brass use.

mike the Inland has great heat,,,,and i use a dimmer to keep it turned down except when in use,is there anything to wrap the handle with as to not get sooooo friggin hot,otherwise i like it,it does get .062 brass plate hot,, right now too,,,
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#72 Michael Rigsby

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 09:38 PM

Jairus,

I am sorry that you had a problem with the Inland after I made such a pitch for them. I have two now, the original 100 watt one that I've had for some time, and I bought a smaller ceramic heater element one for my slot box to carry to the tracks since it's just slightly smaller. I really like that one since it goes from full cold tip to 850 degrees in under 45 seconds. Both are still working fine and get used every day. I do use the brass shavings for cleaning the tips as well as the Radio Shack tip cleaner and tinner paste I think maybe you just got a bad one, which was unfortunate. At least they are standing up to the pump and are going to warranty it for you, which is more than you would have gotten from Cooper Industries.

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#73 Bill from NH

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 10:42 PM

Michael, in addition to the small Rat Shack tins of tip cleaning compound which are nice to carry in your slot box, ask your track owner if he has sal amoniac blocks. Many do, as will stained glass shops. It's the same stuff in a more ecomonical block form. :)
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#74 Jairus

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Posted 06 February 2009 - 12:02 PM

Thank you to all forum members who have contributed to this thread. Yesterday UPS delivered a package which contained a brand new Inland 100-watt soldering iron. I sent my old broken one back and they replaced it for no charge. :good:
Posted Image
Big Thumbs up to Inland for being a Stand-Up company!

During the interim I built two more chassis and numerous other things that required an iron... so I purchased another Weller and traded for a very nice Ungar. Now I have three... so hopefully, by trading off between the three... and using a brass brillo to clean the tip, they last longer!
Jairus happy! :)

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#75 The Bugman

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Posted 06 February 2009 - 12:19 PM

Mr JW,,when you use the 100watter,will you report if the handle gets red hot,,,,,,,even too much to hold,,,,i have a Inland 100w and the darn handle gets sooooooooooooo hot its impossible to hold,,,,but its not a STUDIO version,,,,,i wonder if theyre better than the one i bought at BPR,
thx for any helpful info.
oscar m.
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