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#26 Toremeister

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Posted 20 July 2006 - 03:19 PM

the very Slimepit cars that have won the first three Can-Am races... :)

No, you're wrong again. :naughty: Barry and I are referring to cars of yesteryear
John Tore Anderson




#27 S.O. Watt

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Posted 20 July 2006 - 04:34 PM

Tore, the best part of that record was the fact it wasn't a zoomy track, it was the last Hasse-built King before the zoomy invasion. Plus, it was a longer version due to adding length going under the bridge to allow a real person to turn marshal the 90. The Chicago crew came out figuring new records, but only I did one, a 2.455. But thanks for the accolades.

BTW, winning over Mike heads up on Speed & Sport's king is one of my best win memories. Thanks, Mike!. :lol:

That same race Earl and I had to go the our 3rd timed qualifying lap to determine who TQ'd. 8)

Some real good racing back then.

Tore, remember Knapper's out on Tustin Ave?

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#28 Toremeister

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Posted 20 July 2006 - 06:46 PM

Tore, remember Knapper's out on Tustin Ave?

Yep, it took 20 years to go 1 second faster.The world record now is 1.46 seconds for Group 7 cars.

But here we are, geezers in a different century, and still playing with toy cars. Paul Sterrett started this new Retro Can-Am class in So-Cal, and Steube's building and enthusiasm, has sparked a big interest among other old scratchbuilders and racers, so we all got together and are calling it Division 3.

And yes, if you must know, Steube cars have won all three races in a row, including a win by a vision-challenged Frenchman. :doh: Yep, just like the '60s, if Mike is in the house, you are going to have to step it up to the next level, he will not cut anyone any slack till the race is run, then he'll come up to you, smile, shake your hand, say "good race, mon." :up: Deja vu all over again. :roll: We all welcome you back, Mike. :wave: And thanks to all who race Division 3. :up:
John Tore Anderson

#29 Toremeister

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Posted 20 July 2006 - 06:55 PM

By the way, Tom, today I mailed you, Fred Hood, and Lee Gilbert the rules and additional information on Retro Can-Am class!
John Tore Anderson

#30 S.O. Watt

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Posted 20 July 2006 - 08:30 PM

Hardbodies only, if ever. You guys would be in trouble cuz them babies may be slow and big enough for me to see. I'd also be looking for the secret weapon body. ;) Plus, I was always happiest sideways.

:twisted:

Also, I do remember quite well teaming up with Mike a couple of times at the races, we WHUPPED EVERYONES A$$ for hours playing foosball. :)

Tom Hansen
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#31 idare2bdul

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Posted 21 July 2006 - 03:07 AM

OK, Hansen, if you want to play foosball I'll have to look up my old Revtech team mate, Dave Portz. Hmmm, can we get BP to install a fooooooseball table?
Dokk will have to have a no head butt rule. :roll:
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#32 Cheater

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Posted 21 July 2006 - 11:07 AM

Funny that you guys would bring up foosball.

At the race this past weekend, Jay Guard told me that before he got into slots, he was a semi-pro foosball player. At one time there was evidently a foosball circuit paying real money to the winners. Jay says he bought his wife's engagement ring with his foosball winnings . . .

Gregory Wells

Never forget that first place goes to the racer with the MOST laps, not the racer with the FASTEST lap


#33 TSR

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Posted 21 July 2006 - 12:43 PM

Dokk will have to have a no head butt rule.

As a former foosball lunch-hour champion in Paris, Froggistan (formerly France before they surrendered to the invasion), as George W. said oh-so rightly, BRING IT ON! :twisted:

Philippe de Lespinay


#34 idare2bdul

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Posted 21 July 2006 - 01:39 PM

If I remember correctly Dave Portz said he made $50,000 one year in tournaments. He made a shot on me one time that went off the side, the back, hit my goalie and went in. When I told him it was a lucky shot he proceded to make the same shot, first try, from the other side. The list goes on from there.
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Mike Boemker

#35 Toremeister

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Posted 22 July 2006 - 12:08 AM

OK, Hansen, if you want to play foosball I'll have to look up my old Revtech team mate, Dave Portz. Hmmm, can we get BP to install a fooooooseball table?
Dokk will have to have a no head butt rule. :roll:

Now that's a great idea :up: We must get BPR to install a FOOSBALL table.My old motor builder back in the '60s, Pete Zimmerman, played several tournaments in the '70s and '80s.Great game! Oh crap, I forgot about my arthritis. :doh:
John Tore Anderson

#36 Toremeister

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Posted 22 July 2006 - 12:11 AM

Nice, Mike.

Just what are the rules for this class?

Make up your mind, Hansen. :|
John Tore Anderson

#37 dc-65x

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Posted 27 July 2006 - 10:48 AM

Hi Mike,

I love your chassis, it looks terrific. I have been doing searches on the forum to try to find answers to some questions but I have had no luck. I hope you haven’t already answered these but here goes:

I'm sticking with the 1/16th bronze rod for the rails for now.

What’s the thought behind using this instead of brass rod or piano wire or a combination of both?

I did a Google search on bronze rod and found lots of different kinds. What are you using and where can I buy it?

I believe the rules stated there must be .050” ground clearance measured at the rear axle. I ASSume that means the front can be slammed? What do you recommend for clearance at the front of the chassis with the front wheels touching the tech block?

I was interested to see your use of spring-loaded pans. I followed the floppy pan development in the old magazines of the '60s and '70s. I noticed they started off spring loaded and later dropped the springs. What’s your thought behind spring loading the pans?

When I first read the rules I ASSumed (again!) everyone would go with fixed pans on a loose-fitting plumber arrangement. What are your thoughts on the pan vs. plumber setup?

Boy, I’d better stop! Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me, Mike. I really appreciate it.

Rick

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#38 Toremeister

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Posted 27 July 2006 - 11:37 AM

Rick, the recent heat wave sent Mike back to La-La land, so I'll fill in for him till he returns. :lol:

Brass rod or piano wire: I remember Mike saying inlines don't like piano wire. I'm in total agreement with him on this. I think these low torque mini-motors are happier with .062 brass rod. However, I prefer to use EVERDURE. It's a silicone-bronze rod I buy at welding supply stores (it's a little stronger and harder than regular brass rod). Now as I recall, Mike likes regular bronze rod.

Front ground clearance: .030 inch.

Spring loading side pans with .032 piano wire: We must wait for Mike's input here. I shall try on my car also ASAP.

Rick! Could you please do a little HOW TO SOLDER article? I'm sure everybody would appreciate it. The quality of your workmanship is simply second to none. :up:
John Tore Anderson

#39 dc-65x

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Posted 27 July 2006 - 12:04 PM

Rick! Could you please do a little HOW TO SOLDER article? I'm sure everybody would appreciate it. The quality of your workmanship is simply second to none..

Thank you very much. :blush: . It's ironic you should mention me doing a post on soldering. I'm a little gun shy to post on anything right now, much less on soldering. You must have missed the recent....ahhh....controversy in my latest post in the vintage pro car section. I think I need to back off for a while and see how things shake out on Slotblog.

Thanks for all your input to my questions. I'll do a search for the EVERDURE silicone bronze rod you use. Do you have any thoughts on the use of floppy pans vs. fixed pans and a plumber?

Rick

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#40 endbelldrive

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Posted 27 July 2006 - 12:31 PM

Rick! Could you please do a little HOW TO SOLDER article? I'm sure everybody would appreciate it. The quality of your workmanship is simply second to none..

Thank you very much. :blush: . It's ironic you should mention me doing a post on soldering. I'm a little gun shy to post on anything right now, much less on soldering.

Rick

Rick, PLEEEEZE...puhleeeze do an article on soldering with loads o'pictures. I need help. ........... :cat: Don't make me post pics of my lumpy, cold solder joints. :hand: Don't be shy 'bout posting your stuff because some of us are learning something from 'em....OK, and now back to our regular program.

Oh yeah, I'm ordering 20 pounds of Everdure. How much is 20 pounds??
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#41 Bill from NH

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Posted 27 July 2006 - 12:48 PM

Bob & Tore, go back & reread Rick's article titled "A Diamond in Steel." It and its photos provide quite a soldering lesson. Here's the link:

http://www.slotblog....topic.php?t=272

#42 idare2bdul

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Posted 27 July 2006 - 01:03 PM

20 pounds of Everdure is 9071.8474 Grams. Planning on buiding a chassis or two, are we, Mr. Suzuki? :lol:
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#43 Toremeister

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Posted 27 July 2006 - 01:15 PM

Hinged side pans are the way to go for me. My first Retro Can-Am had floaters and was not competetive, but then again it was an all piano wire chassis of perimeter design. My current car is much better, old school design, three rail .062 EVERDURE and three hinge pivots per side,. 032 brass sidepans, but next car will have .042 thickness pans which will be even more suitable for our Kingelman and Hillclimb. I think optimum Can-Am car weight should be close to 130 grams,120 if we should ever race on new swoopy Gerding King. Besides good handing, they look close to '60s era cars of yesteryear. So my suggestion to anybody who wants to run up front, build a car similar to the ones Steube has posted several pictures of, then you can let your imagination run wild on next car you build and hope it will be legal, if you go plumber, floppy, iso, grifo, aero . . . :lol:

Oh hold on :hand: Yes,i t's true, I remember, one of the singers in the '60s group The Association would sometimes come cruizin' in to Jim Gallagher's J&J Raceway in Long-Beach in his ISO-GRIFO and interestedly spectate while we were racing. :whistle:
John Tore Anderson

#44 rdmac

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Posted 27 July 2006 - 01:21 PM

...I'm ordering 20 pounds of Everdure. How much is 20 pounds??

That would be approximately 1816 feet of 1/16" diameter. :)

That should last you a week or two... :mrgreen:

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#45 endbelldrive

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Posted 27 July 2006 - 01:48 PM

Thanks for the info. I guess I better order some more solder, too. :doh:
Bob Suzuki
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#46 dc-65x

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Posted 27 July 2006 - 02:01 PM

ARG! I can't find an online source for 1/16" Everdur silicone bronze brazing rod. Can anyone help me out?

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#47 Toremeister

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Posted 27 July 2006 - 02:21 PM

Rick! PRAXAIR Welding Stores can give you info! It's a welding supply store that used to be named V B ANDERSON here in So-Cal, but it's now named PRAXAIR. I'm sure there are a few in the Bay area, too !
John Tore Anderson

#48 gascarnut

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Posted 27 July 2006 - 04:32 PM

Try this:

http://ecatalog.prax...cator/uswg.html

Isn't Google a wonderful thing?
Dennis Samson
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#49 dc-65x

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Posted 27 July 2006 - 05:16 PM

Well.....I've been a Google'n. Everdur is a brand name for a silicone bronze rod or wire. There are 5 different alloys I have found: 642, 6421, 651, 655 and 656. The first 2 have a small amount of aluminum in the so that's probably not what I want. Everdur 651 and 655 are composed of copper, silicone and a trace amount of manganese. The 655 alloy is the one that Googles up to the surface most often. But, I still can't find an online place to buy it....Google as I might :? .

I called the PRAXAIR Welding Store closest to me (about 40 miles away) and they didn't know what they had, just that they had some kind of silicone bronze brazing rod. The nearest local welding supply store says they have Everdur of some kind. They are not open on weekends so I'll be taking time off work tomorrow to go there and see what the heck they have.

The good thing is that I don't mind doing any of this doinking around because it's for SLOT CARS! WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE! :)

Rick Thigpen
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There's much more to come...


#50 Toremeister

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Posted 27 July 2006 - 05:52 PM

WOHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO For Google & Geezer Goggels :clap: :clap:
John Tore Anderson





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