127 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

This nice new body was gifted by a friend with no specific purpose in mind. Skirt width is 2 7/8", wheel widths 3". This is just a pre-planning announcement so far. I need a potential owner before I decide how to build it. Looking for a volunteer/buyer/owner who has access to a hardbody class, or just likes the body and has an idea of chassis/motor preference. 

 

My friends in SOCAL tell me this body would be legal in one of the hardbody classes they run. Looking for input. Thanks 

 

 

[Pablo]

Or I can slam it down on a belt sander and make a freakish drag car out of it     

[Rotorranch]

Those are neat bodies for a hard body car. One piece body, with no glued on parts. They seem to be a little more resilient plastic as well.

 

Rotor

[Don Weaver]

Body material similar to the LaCucaracha bodies.

[Pablo]

Here is the D3 Hardbody ruleset I'm going to use:

 

1980-Present SPRINT CUP NASCAR

BODY
1. May use any 1/24 – 1/25 scale plastic hardbody, 1980 thru present NASCAR body.
2. May flatten sides below body belt line, but not beyond vertical.
3. May not alter wheel wells.
4. Aero skirt (if present on body) can be trimmed (up to skirt line on the side panels and front
end of the body). Older bodies (90’s) that do not have this skirt can be trimmed no closer
than 1/8” from the door line.
5. Must have 3-D driver/interior, chassis not visible through interior.
6. Must have kit front and rear bumpers unless supported by photo documentation
7. Aero devices from kit or scratch built to resemble real car (documentation may be requested)
8. Must use front windshield and rear windows from kit or .007" thick (min.) clear plastic.
9. Body must extend beyond chassis when viewed from above. No part of chassis may be visible from
above and wider than the bottom portion of body. Body side panels cannot extend beyond vertical.
10. Body must have 3 numbers (roof and both sides)

CHASSIS
1. May be anglewinder, sidewinder or inline.
2. Must be scratchbuilt using any materials.
3. Maximum chassis width 3.100”.
4. Wheelbase to be determined by center of wheel wells in body (plus or minus 1/16”).
Complete wheel/tire assembly must be visible in wheel well at a point level with axle centerline.
5. Ground clearance - .050” rear min., .015” front min., measured under axles (front of body to front axle, rear of body to rear axle).

TIRES
1. 3.100" maximum tire width. Tires cannot extend beyond the body when viewed from above.
2. Rear tire diameter, 1.000” minimum, maximum width .700”.
3. Front tire diameter, .875” minimum, minimum width .225”

MOTOR
1. Must use stock (sealed, no tampering) TSR D3, Falcon 7 or Retro Hawk motor

 

 

 

 

 

[Don Weaver]

Looking forward to this build especially the body mounting system you use...

[Pablo]

I have the body mount system recommended by the "gifter", but I reserve the right to use the best method I end up with. We shall see. Meantime, parts gathering is underway. I have four Pro-Track wheels, plastic sheet for the windows, and some aluminum spurs on order from PCH. 

 

I have a new JK Hawk Retro, some 9, 10, and 11T steel 64P pinions, and everything else on hand. I think 

[Pablo]

The rules allow trimming of the aero skirts up to the door lines. Hardbody gurus, please advise, what is the best way to cut a straight line on 50 thou plastic?

 

 

 

[Bill from NH]

Razor saw.

[Don Weaver]

Razor saw.

 

Clamp a "fence" of 1/16" brass strip on the body at the cut line and use a razor saw like Bill said.

 

Don

[MSwiss]

Body material similar to the LaCucaracha bodies.

I have the Jimmy Johnson preprinted body.

I wouldn't compare the body material to a La Cucaracha.

[Martin]

I use a 1- 1/4" D slitting saw  rotating as slow as possible in the Dremel. Take a bit at a time so as not to melt the plastic.

 

I get as close as I dare, and then finish with the nail sanding sticks. With a final sand on the flat slab. 320 grit.

 

I would be happy to take some pics of this method? If you do not mind spreading the body some to take off and on ?

Attached Images

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[Pablo]

Thanks guys. I think I'm good with that info 

[boxerdog]

I have the Jimmy Johnson preprinted body.

I wouldn't compare the body material to a La Cucaracha.

 

Where do these bodies come from?

[MSwiss]

They were available about 10 years ago.

There was also a real nice Jeff Gordon Rainbow Warrior.

Not real expensive.

I'm not sure if it is part of the same deal, but with getting involved in drag racing, I was made aware of real nice prepainted street cars in a series called Pro Shop.

You can find them if you do an Ebay search.

[boxerdog]

thx

[Don Weaver]

 

Where do these bodies come from?

David,

 

This one is a  Revell "Snaptite" kit.  Look on E-Bay by adding NASCAR to this description.  They come as one piece bodies with great decals already applied and moulded-in colors.  Mike is right, the Jeff Gordon #24 is spectacular!

 

Don

[Pablo]

Based on the suggested methods to trim the skirt, I remembered I have this hi-zoot gizmo gifted by Kim Lander years ago with very thin diamond cutting wheels

 

 

Worked like a charm, no melting. How do ya like that, a gifted body trimmed with a gifted gizmo. Pays to have friends   

 

[Bill from NH]

Will Dremel cutoff discs & arbor also fit this tool? It could be handy cutting thin brass materials. aluminum, & piano wire if they do.

[Pablo]

No, the shaft is a different size. I have used the diamond discs many times to cut metals but the 409 Dremel discs do a better job of it. I save the NEY for finer jobs.

[Bill from NH]

I had done a search on NEY tools but all I found was some British woodworking tool. NEY could be a relabeled name or something made for a particular industry, such as dental, medical, jewelry, etc. There are also a ton of power carving machines sold, some with precision hand pieces. NEY just isn't a name I've come across. 

[Pablo]

It's a dental tool, Sir.

 

A friend suggested an H & R Racing hook and loop body mount system, so I bought an HR502 1/24 body mounting kit, and an HR501 mounting buttons kit. 502 parts on left and 501 parts on right

 

 

I have no clue how they work, can anybody please help, with photos? I went to H&R website and found no directions. I need to find out how they work before deciding if I want to use them. 

 

The mounting system I used on my first hardbody, Eddie Shorer's Lola, worked great. I'd really have to be convinced this is a better way.

 

The rules allow for trimming of the front "aero skirt" but I'll do that later if necessary. Interior mounting prongs for the "model" architecture were sliced off and sanded.

 

New Hawk Retro was broken in dry for 15 minutes, she drew 3 amps at 4 volts. Totally smooth and room temperature. 

[Pablo]

Another question for those who build hardbody cars - what do you do with the plastic parts that come in the kit?

[Rotorranch]

I built a couple of chassis from full hardbody kits into shelf display models with the leftovers.

 

Rotor

[Sloter]

It's a dental tool, Sir.

 

A friend suggested an H & R Racing hook and loop body mount system, so I bought an HR502 1/24 body mounting kit, and an HR501 mounting buttons kit. 502 parts on left and 501 parts on right

 

IMG_9644.JPG

 

I have no clue how they work, can anybody please help, with photos? I went to H&R website and found no directions. I need to find out how they work before deciding if I want to use them. 

 

The mounting system I used on my first hardbody, Eddie Shorer's Lola, worked great. I'd really have to be convinced this is a better way.

 

The rules allow for trimming of the front "aero skirt" but I'll do that later if necessary. Interior mounting prongs for the "model" architecture were sliced off and sanded.

 

New Hawk Retro was broken in dry for 15 minutes, she drew 3 amps at 4 volts. Totally smooth and room temperature. 

 

 

The metal angle brackets bolt to the chassis. The plastic buttons stick to the inside of the car body. I do not use the velcro, I use double back tape to secure the white buttons to the car body. I apply double back tape to the backside of the buttons, push the pin side through the bracket , I use a piece of paper towel, over the pin and push through the hole, to make the pin hole smaller and secure the button to the bracket while installing the body. I do one side at a time (2 buttons) and align the body and press into place. Then repeat for other side. They work very well. Also, I find opening the holes a little after you have the buttons installed allows float for the body. If body pops off during a crash you can secure with one piece of tape on each side from body to underside of chassis. Been using this set for 12+ years, works very well. Hope I did not confuse you!

 

Bob