127 replies to this topic

[Bill from NH]

Here's an article with photos.  The H&R Slider Chassis - Home Racing World

 

They even show a yellow body at the end.

[Pablo]

Thanks Bob and Bill. That gives me enough info to decide if I want to use that system - give me some time to "chew" on it 

[Pablo]

The clearance rules are 15 thou front/50 thou rear; fronts .875 OD min, rears 1.00 OD min. What type jig wheels are the SOCAL builders using to accomplish this? 

[Bill from NH]

Big ones.!  Probably turned down drag gears. PM Keith Tanaka on here, get it from the horse's mouth.

[Pablo]

That's a good idea, Bill. I think I'll turn down some big old spurs on my Hudy. It's a lot of work, though, just for one car    I was hoping Precision Slot Cars made some, but they are for .063 clearance, not .015/.050

[Pablo]

I use a piece of paper towel, over the pin and push through the hole, to make the pin hole smaller and secure the button to the bracket while installing the body. 

 

Thanks Bob. The only part that confuses me is what purpose the paper towel serves - how does a paper towel make a hole smaller? Other than that, it makes perfect sense, and thank you. Even if I don't use this system in the end, it's good info and I appreciate it 

[Pablo]

PS, drag racers and hardbody people are weird, smart, and interesting

 

 

 

 

[Don Weaver]

Jury-rigged jig wheels:

 

Solder a piece of .0625 and .03125 brass strip together and use under your IRRA Can Am rear wheel jigs (.8125 + .050 clearances).

 

Math:  1.00 - .8125 = .1875 / 2 = .09375 = .0625 + .03125

 

PS, I don't drag race 

[Sloter]

 

Thanks Bob. The only part that confuses me is what purpose the paper towel serves - how does a paper towel make a hole smaller? Other than that, it makes perfect sense, and thank you. Even if I don't use this system in the end, it's good info and I appreciate it 

 

It gets pressed into the hole to make it smaller and holds the button in place.

 

Bob

[Pablo]

And you remove it after? Or leave it there?

[Pablo]

Don, I concur with your jig wheel math but it's too many moving (shifting) parts for my taste. I may just wait until I get the wheels in hand, trimmed, and shim the chassis up with the wheels touching. Tack the rails and tubes, then make a mad dash to the sink and clean the parts. I've done it many times and it's usually even more accurate than jig wheels.

 

For those who helped explain the H & R mounting system, thanks again. I probably won't use it on this car, but I may in the future.

 

Noose is painting me a Johnny Benson interior 

 

TQ 20 gauge lead wires on JK clips. Parma flag blueprinted, except for the shaft - I'll decide later how I secure it. PCH 3/32 axle lengths rough cut. C/R 2 degree steel tongue at the ready. Some ballpark gearing choices are on the table

 

 

Not much more I can do until the parts arrive from PCH 

[Bill from NH]

If I was planning to make only 1 or 2 cars, I'd use a couple 1" or 3/4" wide .062 brass strips vertically to make a jig similar to the Champion Align-O-Jig that Rick Moore & others use, On these strips you could position the wheelbase lengths needed  & the axle heights depending upon the tire size & chassis clearances you want to use.  Then sandwich your two strips & drill both sides at the same time.

[Sloter]

And you remove it after? Or leave it there?

 

Remove, it just secures the buttons while you are locating them to the body.

 

Bob

[Pablo]

Cool. Makes sense, thanks Bob 

[Pablo]

I may or may not use this system of Velcro body mount buttons on my Cheerios car. But it's a very effective method. Here is a great photo of how it's done, from Don Weaver. Velcro circles attach to inside of body skirts, buttons with pins Velcro hook to circles, and the pins insert into the aluminum plate holes attached to the chassis

 

 

Thanks Don, my best hardbody buddy 

[Pablo]

Eddie Shorer's Lola was my first experience installing Lexan sheet windows. Turned out "OK", and I haven't hear of any failures on them. This time I'm going to experiment in an attempt to improve my techniques.

 

My plan is to slice each individual plastic piece off the original one-piece heavy clear plastic unit. Then use them as templates to size and plan the Lexan pieces for good fit. Followed by attachment with automotive clear Windshield Sealant

 

[Don Weaver]

Since the lexan is much thinner than the kit windows I wonder if you could form the lexan over the kit windows with a little bit of heat?  

 

Don

[Jay Guard]

That's a really good idea Don, however I would back the original windows with something like clay to act as a heat sink since I suspect the kit windows are probably not made from Lexan and will melt at a lower temperature than the Lexan you are trying to form.  Another idea would be to use a lower melting temperature material to make the new windows from like PTEG.

[Pablo]

Interesting idea, Don, and thanks Jay. Since I'm in experimentation mode and have nothing to lose, I'll try it. The original window mold from the kit is sacrificial at this point anyway. After it serves it's purpose as a template, it's job is done 

[Pablo]

Experimentation reveals the windshield glue doesn't work for this application. On a 1/1 car with perfect and long mating surfaces it works fine. It doesn't work well with gaps. So it went back in the glue drawer.

 

Super glue works well here to strengthen by "spot welding". Double sided wing car tape also works well. For the windshield I ended up using a strip of wing tape for the roof and Super Glue for the hood. Also used a few dots of Super Glue in various spots just to reinforce

 

 

From the outside you may not even know there is a piece of Lexan there, eh? 

 

 

I didn't feel the need to curve the windshield with heat - I'm saving that experiment for the rear window, which has more curves

[Bill from NH]

I might have suggested Shoe Goo or a clear silicone sealer held in place with tape for drying. From the photo, your method looks fine.

 

What are you going to use for the driver's window netting? A piece of black nylon screening may work.

[Pablo]

Shoe Goo, hey that may be the best, thanks I'll try it. For netting, I'll find something

[Pablo]

In the end, a combination of Super Glue, wing and filament tape, all worked well (never did get around to trying the Shoe Goo). Was it all worth it? With all that stuff up high, how much weight did I save? If I had weighed the kit before butchering I could answer to that    

 

 

Keith Tanaka verified the 2 front side windows don't need to be installed. Just the windshield, rear window, and rear side windows. 

 

I won't apologize for the end result, I don't think they will fail and they look better than I expected. Would I do it again? Probably not. I'd probably just slap the kit windows in there and add some more lead down low to the chassis to compensate 

 

[Bill from NH]

NASCAR used to require right side front windows only on their faster tracks like Daytona & Talladega. Don't know whether that rule changed or not. I have black nylon screening. Let me know if you need a piece.

[Pablo]

Yes please