127 replies to this topic

[Bill from NH]

You could drill some1/8" holes for use of them with other jigs too, except the ceramic honeycomb ones..
 

[Pablo]

ha ha. pablo, the genius of your "axel stands" is the repeatability of your construction techniques. any tire size, axel height or frame build can be duplicated easily. great idea. AND, your making use of parts that otherwise would have been discarded - repurposing them. i love it!

 

Glad you like it, John. "Recycle Sally" LOL 

 

Bill is the genius who invented me - he created a monster (and probably regrets it now   )

 

.063 Iso inner rails tacked in place. Influenced by Foamy (Dennis Hill)

 

[Bill from NH]

I may see some unique building compared to my own, but I have no regrets.    I still have my Rat Shack parts for "Pablo Connecters." 

[Pablo]

Cheerios Iso rails are in place and have good movement. A little droop, lift, and wiggle is all it takes. Time for a bath

 

 

[Bill from NH]

If you need to change gear ratios, are you going to also have to re-bend the upright at the end of the chassis's inner right main rail fore & aft?

[Pablo]

Excellent question. My answer is: "maybe". Whoever buys the car can send it back and request whatever gears they want. I can fix it or modify it.  

 

[Pablo]

Interior done 

 

[Bill from NH]

Noose did a good job! If you happen to get another yellow Pontiac, you could build the Michael Waltrip Country Time Lemonade car.

[Pablo]

Forward cross-piece and twin Iso upstops. A little tiny bit of movement is all I want, so I used pieces of 7 thou sandpaper to set the stops. Front axle uprights wired tight and soldered. It may not be pretty, but it won't fail 

 

 

[Pablo]

I decided to use pin tube body mounts on 1/32 X 1/2 X 3 1/8" brass pans, tilting off the Iso rails

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Martin]

Hey Pablo, Please tell me I am seeing this wrong, In post #84 the front axle looks high on the left. Is this an optical delusion

[Pablo]

It's just the camera angle. I guarantee it's level. I don't guarantee my uprights are always exactly the same height though 

[Martin]

That's what I was hoping.       

[Pablo]

While you were getting highway hypnosis staring at my axle, you missed the forward Iso crosspiece wire isn't laying flat on the stdb. side.      I didn't notice it until I posted the photo and have since fixed it.

 

Since I tested and was happy with the amount of lift the stops gave the Iso rails, after I fixed the cross piece error the stbd. piece needed to be tweaked. Easy fix. Now it's perfect.

 

By all means, don't hesitate to keep watching me    Chassis building is a piece of cake compared to painting - you screw a paint job and you are done 

 

Time to solder pan hinge tubes ...........

[Bill from NH]

  Chassis building is a piece of cake compared to painting - you screw a paint job and you are done    

 

 

When your cars go fast enough, nobody even notices your paint details. So are you building a scarred horse, or a pretty turtle? 

[Pablo]

Hinge tubes done. I still need to flow the solder across the pans, then bite bar, etc. Just following the masters, as usual 

 

 

[Pablo]

I added little .055 wire spacers in between the Iso rails to provide more surface area where the .047 bite bar gets soldered. Looks like a plumber's nightmare, eh? 

 

 

Always doing things the same way would get boring for me; I like to change things up. But I'll never tire of copying the masters. The hinge wires for example are Tony P. style, and the simple square-ish pans are Katz style. Scratchbuilding methods that simply "work" will never die because they work.

 

The brass retainers on the bite bar ends will get shaved down to give me the exact amount of pan lift I want before being installed

 

[Pablo]

Retainers trimmed for correct amount of pan lift, bite bar installed, downstops give just a hair of droop. Time for a good bath

 

 

[Pablo]

Added another brace to the right rear end, removed the jig BB's, rough trimmed the front axle ends, gave it an SOS/baking soda bath, installed the new BB's, smoothed the rough solder edges off with a carbon wire wheel, and into the tumbler she goes

 

[Bill from NH]

I usually built in extra pan flop so the amount could be tuned in or out for particular tracks by placing tape under the bite bar ends. Six of one, half dozen of another.

[Pablo]

It has plenty of pan lift and easily be adjusted/tuned. Out of the tumbler

 

 

 

 

 

[Pablo]

Independently rotating Pro-Tracks installed at 2 15/16" width, and about 25 thou clearance under the axles. Gives me a little fudge factor over 15 thou as per the rules.

 

Whoever ends up racing this car needs to remind the tech inspector it's an Iso design - the tongue needs to be elevated a hair before sliding a tool under it up front. Otherwise the 15 thou tool will hit the chunk.

 

Chassis is slathered in WD-40 and all moving parts re-oiled before assembly continues. The tongue needs to have a film of protective lube every so often, or else it will try to oxidize. If anybody knows a way to prevent this tendency when soldering dissimilar metals, I'm all ears

 

[John Luongo]

a quick, light spray of clear lacquer on a clean, dry guide tongue may help to minimize the expected oxidation by sealing it off from the air. best regards

[Pablo]

Both sides, or just the top?

[Bill from NH]

Tin all surfaces with solder before attaching to the front plate.

 

Tin with silver solder, it's more durable than 60/40 or 63/37.

 

Use Cobra brass tongues like you get at PM.

 

Get can of Boeshield T-9,