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Scratchbuilding a Champion 'Jail Door' Lotus 40


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#26 Isaac S.

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Posted 14 December 2021 - 03:29 PM

Didn’t think of that Dave. It was probably much cheaper for Champion after all.
Isaac Santonastaso




#27 dc-65x

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Posted 15 December 2021 - 06:48 PM

Here's the chassis so far:

 

champion chassis (17).JPG

 

champion chassis (26).JPG

 

champion chassis (19).JPG

 

champion chassis (20).JPG

 

champion chassis (23).JPG

 

champion chassis (24).JPG

 

Getting that controversial drop arm installed is next.....

 

 


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#28 Isaac S.

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Posted 15 December 2021 - 08:49 PM

Looks great, It is going to turn out much better than a stock Champion built car. 


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#29 Martin

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Posted 15 December 2021 - 11:02 PM

Looks like jewelry to me  :sun_bespectacled:

How do you do the neat bevel on the ends of the tube :good: Is there a cup tool, sort of a reverse countersink?


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#30 dc-65x

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Posted 16 December 2021 - 01:58 PM

Thanks Isaac, it's been fun to "roll my own" chassis.

 

I just use a file to bevel the ends of the rails Martin. That's why each rail doesn't look exactly the same in the super closeup pictures. To the naked eye they look nice and are very smooth to the touch with no sharp edges.


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#31 dc-65x

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Posted 16 December 2021 - 09:22 PM

I soldered the guide flag tube and the drop arm hinge tube in the same setup:

 

champion chassis (26a).JPG

 

A quick comment on Champion's use of a plate drop arm on their last gen inline frame. When floppy pan inlines first came about both multi rod and plate drop arms were in use. But this frame came to market later, in fact months into the angle winder revolution. At that time plate arms were pretty much becoming the standard operating procedure.

 

I think the finished drop arm looks cool with it's Champion logo:

 

champion chassis (28).JPG

 

champion chassis (27a).JPG

 

Here is it at home in its frame:

 

champion chassis (30).JPG

 

champion chassis (31).JPG

 

champion chassis (32).JPG

 

The "Floating body mount kit" is next.....


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#32 Isaac S.

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Posted 16 December 2021 - 09:47 PM

Shiny!
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#33 Pablo

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Posted 16 December 2021 - 10:46 PM

Pure gold


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#34 dc-65x

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Posted 18 December 2021 - 01:08 PM

The pans won't be so shiny as they are a "gold" plated steel. Unfortunately the bottom surface of the pans was rusty. I had to sand and polish them to bare steel to get it off.

 

Anyway, here are the installation instructions:

 

champion chassis (16).jpg

 

The kit pieces:

 

champion chassis (33).JPG

 

jigging things up to see what goes where:

 

champion chassis 35.JPG

 

I've got to make sure the cross bar clears the motor bearing and the pans pin tubes will clear the drop arm down stop rod.....


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#35 dc-65x

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Posted 19 December 2021 - 01:29 PM

Per the instructions and to make the pans level with the bottom of the chassis rails I used  .015" shims covered with Kapton tape to space the pan hinge tubes:

 

champion chassis (36).JPG

 

I also cut a "blow hole" in the tube to flush out crap-o-la and to allow access to the drop arm hinge tube:

 

champion chassis (39).JPG

 

Ready to hang the pans:

 

champion chassis (38).JPG

 

Almost a finished chassis.


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#36 Phil Smith

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Posted 19 December 2021 - 06:59 PM

Looks like jewelry to me  :sun_bespectacled:

How do you do the neat bevel on the ends of the tube :good: Is there a cup tool, sort of a reverse countersink?

That's a great idea.


Phil Smith
???-2/31/23
Requiescat in Pace

#37 dc-65x

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Posted 20 December 2021 - 11:35 AM

The pans went on easy peasy........

 

champion chassis (45).JPG

 

.........and the chassis is finished:

 

champion chassis (40).JPG

 

I set the chassis width to 3 1/16" instead of the instructions 3" to better fit the body:

 

champion chassis (41).JPG

 

The bottom of the pans were rusty and are now polished bare steel instead of plated "gold":

 

champion chassis (44).JPG


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#38 Larry Horner

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Posted 20 December 2021 - 05:55 PM

I've always loved the elegant simplicity of jail door chassis and this one is gorgeous ... nicely done Rick!

 

Me thinks I might need to build one of these.  :on_the_quiet2:



#39 dc-65x

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Posted 20 December 2021 - 09:35 PM

Thanks Larry and yes, you should build one.  :good:   This has been a fun build.  

 

Rebuilding this 517-26 motor is next. I'm going to refurbish it but no radical modifications:

 

champion motor (4).JPG

 

The armature will get cleaned, polished and the comm cut. I'll also try to get the brush tracking  adjusted:

 

champion motor (8).JPG

 

I'm going to replace the end bell and tap it for 2-56 stainless steel machine screws:

 

champion motor (9).JPG

 

All the hardware will be cleaned and polished:

 

champion motor (10).JPG

 

The scratched up can is getting sanded down and a fresh coat of Rust-Oleum satin black paint....

 

 

 

 


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#40 Pablo

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Posted 20 December 2021 - 10:01 PM

Wheeeeee! I never get tired of seeing it!  :heart:  :heart:  :heart:  :heart:


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#41 Isaac S.

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Posted 20 December 2021 - 10:47 PM

Is the epoxy normally that dark? Or was did it get really hot at some point in it's life? Very cool motor though. 


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#42 Pablo

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Posted 20 December 2021 - 11:02 PM

Grasshopper, windings and epoxy on vintage arms vary in color. Typically they are dark like that.

 

The comm brush track color is much more important as an indicator than epoxy and windings color. I'm guessing from the photo, but it looks like that comm track is simply dirty and will probably clean up nicely.

 

I'll bet Capt. Rick agrees?


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#43 Isaac S.

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Posted 20 December 2021 - 11:40 PM

It's very possible that is true. I know that with Mura arms when they get really hot they turn from a reddish-brown to a dark brown like this arm. 


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#44 old & gray

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Posted 21 December 2021 - 12:29 AM

Comments for the peanut galley: the com track looks pretty high, either the magnets need to be closer to the endbell or the bullet proofing plates are lifting the hoods. When did Champion change from the grind balance to drill holes?

 

That motor in that frame could be a handful, just like it was in the 60's. 


Bob Schlain

#45 Bill from NH

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Posted 21 December 2021 - 09:13 AM

If that arm was mine, I'd have it rebalanced too. It appears to just have the original factory balancing. The old epoxies, regardless of color, allowed windings to move around more than today's epoxies do. My assumption is the arm is probably out of balance & needs more attention than a comm cut. 


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#46 dc-65x

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Posted 21 December 2021 - 12:02 PM

The armature will get cleaned, polished and the comm cut. I'll also try to get the brush tracking  adjusted:
 
champion motor (8).JPG

 
I love these old "rewound" motors. Here's the armature after my cleanup:
 
champion motor (16).JPG
 
Looks like I can set the arm up for proper brush tracking with spacers. If not I'll have to make some modifications:
 
champion motor (17).JPG
 
Note the mild (by todays standards) timing:
 
champion motor (15).JPG
 
The armature looks like new now which is what I was hoping for.
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#47 dc-65x

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Posted 23 December 2021 - 11:54 AM

I'm replacing this end bell.....

 

champion motor (9).JPG

 

......with a NOS factory fresh one:

 

champion motor (5).JPG

 

It needs to be modified with the factory bullet proofing kit:

 

champion motor (7).JPG

 

Here are the instructions for the kit:

 

Champion endbell bullet proofing.JPG

 

The shunted brushes used are 26D:

 

champion motor (19).JPG

 

The new end bell, brushes and cleaned up original brush springs:

 

champion motor (11).JPG

 

The can is next......

 


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#48 dc-65x

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Posted 24 December 2021 - 08:53 PM

The can contained the dark colored 1-piece shim and ARCO magnets:

 

champion motor (14).JPG

 

They still showed a pretty strong gauss reading after 50 years:

 

champion motor (12).JPG

 

They perked up a bit after a good zapping:

 

champion motor (13).JPG

 

I used hard to find NOS self tapping flat head screws to reattach the can and end bell:

 

champion motor (1).JPG

 

The finished motor with a fresh coat of satin black and the Champion sticker reapplied:

 

champion motor (21).JPG

 

champion motor (23).JPG

 

champion motor (25).JPG

 

champion motor (24).JPG

 

 


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#49 Alchemist

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Posted 26 December 2021 - 02:53 PM

That's fantastic Rick!

 

Please let us know how it spins on the power supply!

 

Ernie


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#50 dc-65x

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Posted 28 December 2021 - 09:26 PM

The motor sings Ernie. It draws 1.2 amps at 4 volts and doesn't get hot.

 

To get the rolling chassis up and running I'm using Champion "baby moon" hubcap style wheels. Here they are new in the package along with the restored used ones with fresh tires for this build:

 

champion wheels (2).JPG

 

I added some gold accents to them to go with the paint scheme I'm planning for the body:

 

champion wheels (3).JPG

 

The fronts are ground to 13/16" and the rears to 7/8":

 

champion wheels (5).JPG

 

champion wheels (6).JPG

 

I'm also using an Arcolight front axle:

 

champion wheels (4).JPG

 

I'm using a modern Koford drill blank rear axle but I thought I'd share this cool Champion marked piece:

 

champion wheels (1).JPG

 

For a guide I've got a repackaged by Champion Cox quick change:

 

champion guide.JPG

 

OK, time to get this car assembled.......


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