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Rainy day project


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#1 Mad Mark

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Posted 28 December 2021 - 03:15 PM

time off with spare parts for a build and its raining out? Might as well build something! good excuse to use my new ricks jig also. I have a pretty much brand new russkit 33 with modified motor bracket and some Riggen or buzco wire fronts to use. I wanted to try and make something a little different thats not so flat and has some shape if you look at it from the side. pretty much just started building with no real plan besides I wanted it iso.
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Mark Haas




#2 Mad Mark

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Posted 28 December 2021 - 03:27 PM

after I finished the guide tongue I realized I kind of screwed myself for the whole iso plan and front axle mounting. I had also planned on using a repop track roadster body but its super thin and just wont work. so I decided to use a rough vintage 32 five window coupe body that is super cool (forgot who made it). so with the new body I determined I can still have iso with limited to about a 1/4 downward movement. I started the iso hinge and made it off the rear axle. probably not the best idea but whatever. the body mount Im going to make that uses existing body holes will double as the up stop. not sure how this thing will work there is a single brass rod main rail and around a inch of no support so its a little bendy in the middle.
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yes I used stacked quarters for rear axle height haha.
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this jig is amazing it makes it so easy. I havent even burned a finger yet!
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Mark Haas

#3 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 28 December 2021 - 04:04 PM

looks like your rear axle is set to a front hub + $.50. I love it.  :)

 

Good looking hot rod. 


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#4 Bill from NH

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Posted 28 December 2021 - 04:16 PM

Interesting chassis Mike! Let us know how it runs once you've had it on a track. "There's more than one way to bend wire & brass." Nice job on your chassis.


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Bill Fernald
 
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#5 Mad Mark

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Posted 28 December 2021 - 05:50 PM

Got the front axle mounted. setting ride height starts to get kind of confusing atleast for me at this point. think I got it pretty close, maybe add a washer under guide post if its off a little. and goofy up stop/body mount. just about the only way to do it with where the holes are on the body. not sure how Im going to secure the rear of the body yet.
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view of minimal iso movement.
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Mark Haas

#6 gatormark

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Posted 28 December 2021 - 06:13 PM

What do ya call that
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#7 Bill from NH

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Posted 28 December 2021 - 07:01 PM

A winner!


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Bill Fernald
 
I intend to live forever!  So far, so good.  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 

#8 Mad Mark

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Posted 28 December 2021 - 07:09 PM

Braced the iso hinge before cutting the axle tube and did a quick wire wheel and mock up.
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Mark Haas

#9 Mad Mark

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Posted 28 December 2021 - 07:15 PM

looks like your rear axle is set to a front hub + $.50. I love it.  :)
 
Good looking hot rod.

thanks! Those are womp womp front wheels hah.
Mark Haas

#10 slotcarone

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Posted 28 December 2021 - 08:14 PM

Very creative Mark. If you are just going to run it around the track it will be fine but as is it will not survive much of a crash without bending and breaking some solder joints.

Mike Katz

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#11 Mad Mark

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Posted 29 December 2021 - 03:39 PM

the lengths Ill go to to use existing body holes on a wrecked body sheesh. this is the best I could come up with for the random hole on the decklid of the body. it will be be a iso hinge brace/body mount/ tube rear bumper mount :)
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Mark Haas

#12 Mad Mark

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Posted 29 December 2021 - 04:45 PM

Front axle brace that will also look like split wishbones.
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#13 Mad Mark

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Posted 30 December 2021 - 02:44 PM

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Mark Haas

#14 Bill from NH

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Posted 30 December 2021 - 04:51 PM

The completed car looks great Mark!


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#15 Isaac S.

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Posted 30 December 2021 - 05:36 PM

Very cool, I like the little bumper.  :good: Now you've gotta find a rewind for it!  :crazy: A Champion 707 would be pretty cool. 


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Isaac Santonastaso

#16 Mad Mark

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Posted 30 December 2021 - 06:31 PM

Very cool, I like the little bumper.  :good: Now you've gotta find a rewind for it!  :crazy: A Champion 707 would be pretty cool.

I might put in a balanced classic 26d since this 36d isn’t meant for the motor bracket so it has pretty bad gear mesh.
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Mark Haas

#17 Mad Mark

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Posted 30 December 2021 - 06:34 PM

The completed car looks great Mark!


Thanks! this is the third scratchbuild I’ve done, I think it came out ok besides front axle is pretty crappy soldering job. Solder doesn’t like to stick to old piano wire very good.
Mark Haas

#18 Bill from NH

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Posted 30 December 2021 - 06:51 PM

Mark, clean it with something such as fine sandpaper, steel wool, or the green synthelic pot scrubbing pads before soldering. You need to remove the oxidation & get the surfaces down to a clean, bright metal first. Then it'll stick okay.


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Bill Fernald
 
I intend to live forever!  So far, so good.  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 

#19 Mad Mark

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Posted 30 December 2021 - 07:53 PM

Mark, clean it with something such as fine sandpaper, steel wool, or the green synthelic pot scrubbing pads before soldering. You need to remove the oxidation & get the surfaces down to a clean, bright metal first. Then it'll stick okay.


I did sand it but apparently not good enough. oh well next time I’ll really sand it.
Mark Haas

#20 dc-65x

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Posted 30 December 2021 - 08:35 PM

Very cool Mark. Imaginative design and clean workmanship. Scratch building at its best.   :good: 

 

Like Bill advised, cleaning the heck out of the wire and lots of flux really makes soldering easier. I switched from sandpaper to Scotch Brite pads as it seems easier and faster for me.

 

Oh, and I personally haven't had good luck with those white plastic crown gears either.  


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#21 Isaac S.

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Posted 30 December 2021 - 09:11 PM

Agreed, lots of flux and scotch-brite. The Wilson crown gears have a noisy mesh, a few have also cracked on me. 


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#22 Mad Mark

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Posted 30 December 2021 - 09:23 PM

Very cool Mark. Imaginative design and clean workmanship. Scratch building at its best.   :good: 
 
Like Bill advised, cleaning the heck out of the wire and lots of flux really makes soldering easier. I switched from sandpaper to Scotch Brite pads as it seems easier and faster for me.
 
Oh, and I personally haven't had good luck with those white plastic crown gears either.


Thanks! I was thinking of taking all the mil scale off but didn’t really want the whole front axle rusting out. I have the exact same axle and wheels on another donor chassis so I’ll make it better on the next one. and the crown and rear wheels I just threw on. not really sure what I’m going to run. those weird Garvic rears work pretty good actually but don’t look very cool.
Mark Haas

#23 snolde

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Posted 30 December 2021 - 10:58 PM

Hi Mark,

Suggestion on soldering piano wire and brass rod or tubing.

First wipe the wire with a paper towel that has some rubbing alcohol on it, this will remove most of the gunk from the wire.

Then I use some 1000 grit sandpaper folded over the wire and sand it till the wire has a nice shine.

And then another wipe down with the paper towel and alcohol to remove the sandpaper dust from the wire.


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#24 Mad Mark

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Posted 01 January 2022 - 07:32 PM

So how do I figure out which way the motor is supposed to run?
Mark Haas

#25 Isaac S.

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Posted 01 January 2022 - 08:47 PM

If you are using stock Mabuchi motor it shouldnt matter but if you check the timing you can tell. See which way the commutator is advanced from the center of the pole and the motor will spin that way. Or you can just run it both ways and see which is fastest.
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